Ok.

Sucks to hear about your 78. That was 2 years before I was born.

I will probably just get cammotion to make me a cam.

 

By the time I bought the 78 I had spoiled myself with big blocks 396 two 454s. don't underestimate the 3.875 leverage arm you will have its better then the 3.76 I had in my 396 not to mention my 396 was dragging around with the aluminum manifold another 150 pounds of its own weight, never tried weighing them but far as I know iron intake to pan SB 520lbs, iron intake to pan bb 680 lbs.

The crower cam 2000FRCZ19 used would be a sweet cam for a cruiser with performance thrown in, for an auto or stick car. with 10.47 compression you would have enough compression to support the duration, even with his 1.6 rockers the lift is still mild enough not to be wearing valve springs out at a fast rate. It would pull past your 5200 rpm with power goal but thats OK, let your foot be the rpm limiter not the cam, 90 percent of the time if you want drive it at 2500/5000, keep the other 1000 rpm of power for when the foot is bored with 5000 rpm power.

 

Do you have a different part number?

 

Are you talking to me I have 2006 Crower and Crane catalogs I can
look up the Crower cam number. Cower shows rpm ranges for the same cam in different displacement size engines shows lift with both 1.5 or
1.6 rockers. Both Crower, Crane will put an iron gear on a steel billet
cam. Crower even has an option they will make an 8620 steel billit
hard face solid/flat tappit cam.

 

Thats cool, I will poke through their catalog.

Its interesting to see the RPM ranges in the catalog.

Its interesting the cams all seem to have A LOT of difference in the intake and exhaust lobe durations.

 

Steel billet hydraulic roller with iron gear on the back should last many miles.
Crower steel billet flat tappit order #00033

 

So I thought I would mess around a sec, as I was thinking that I would just use my crower roller lifters on a small crane solid roller with the small base circle.

So I installed my redundant hyd roller cam for fitment purposes and dropped my crower lifters in there. The link bar was resting on the milled pads for the hyd roller retainers.

So I have no idea if the lifters are even riding on the camshaft, so I am not sure I want to just get a crane solid roller and call it a day.

 

I thought hard about doing a 396, but went with a 427 instead. I'm looking forward to seeing how your motor turns out.

As to the cam and streetability...I put a high duration (250,258)/lift (670) solid roller in the 427 and it drives easier on the street now than the old hydraulic/flat tappet 383 motor I had. I was worried about that at first, but man, this thing is really easy to drive with the 5 speed and CF dual friction clutch. Of course the fuel injection might smooth it out a bit too.

 

My solid roller lifters definitely do not reach the camshaft.

 

the cam i used was crower hyd. roller #00471 in a small base circle. they can change the lsa for you to say around 113 for a smoother idle and a flat power curve if you want.

 

Left to my own devices I would probably get the crane HR-284-2s-12 IG

But I guess I could compromise and go 1 bigger but I think that is starting to get my DCR out of wack. Even the 284 duration has me down way into high 7s.

I can see the opprotunity in a bigger camshaft but I think if I am to buy the DCR BS I should up my compression to go along with it. Say get the 64cc chambers.

 

I think the appropriate camshaft based upon the overwhelming cries for more duration would be a 119661

112 LSA 107 ICL 292/300(230/238) on a small base circle.

 

The lower the head flow the bigger the cam required. That crane cam was similar to my first 383 only I had the solid roller version with ported Dart 215 cc heads and a single plane. It would be a nice street cam.

 

that sounds like the goal.

Now to get the mon-ay

 

My understanding is that 396's and 427's can easily rev to 8K. 454's and anything else are supposed to be lower.

 

Well hello from the brandermill!

In either case, a 396 in the case I am talking about is a 3.875" stroke in a 350 block. So think a 383 with a few more cubes.

 

with my cam and a comp ratio of 10.47 i got a dcr of 8.27. i am also using 72 cc afr heads.

 

I have a buddy building I believe it comes out to a 396 small block for his 90 6speed vette. Heres a list of what he is doing

tpis F/L header with 3 inch catback
PB600 twin intercooled supercharger
89 L-98 block .030 over
forged splayed 4 bolt caps
GM zz-383 cola crank (believe a 3.800 stroke)
6.00 inch carillo rods
64cc 215cc AFR heads
base compression around 8-8.5:1
probably a LT-4 hot cam
58mm throttlebody
punched out TPIS bigmouth manifold
punched out SLP runners
1.6 roller rockers
3.33 gear (I believe)

Should be interesting when it is done

 

Sounds like I am on the right track then.

 

Guru, I am no pro builder or anything but it seems to me that for only wanting 450hp and good low end tq, you are going way above and beyond what you need.....I wouldn't try to re-invent the wheel here, just a simple, streetable combo would do what you want and be WAY more simple to aquire parts wise. Why not stick with a 383"? you could save a ton of money and I bet the torque loss from a 3.87 would not even be noticeable.

How about this:
1)3.75" crank of your choice, Scat or Eagle, (hell for 450hp I would just go cast)
2)5.7 or 6.0 rods, once again your choice
3)A good forged, flat top piston, SRP or Mahles, set the deck height to give you 9.8-10.0-1 compression with 64cc heads.
4)DEFINETLY a hydraulic roller cam for what you want to do, I would go with a .224/.228 or even a .224/.232 @ .050., maybe like .520-.540 lift on a 110lsa.

5)Then the key to the power with this mild cam is GOOD heads. I would go with the 195 AFR Eliminators but if you want to knock $500 off of that, go with the 23* TFS heads, for $1000, you can't beat them. (Those Dart pro 1 heads out of the box are junk...they flow like 230-240 cfm at .550 lift.....they would need porting along with the intake to get decent flow out of them.)

RPM Air gap intake, 750 carb of your choice and that should get you an EASY 450-475hp and still be very mild on the bottom end, have good vacuum, last forever and be built with easy to find, off the shelf type parts.

Just remember K I S S.