72 sb engine compartment heat
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2007
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72 sb engine compartment heat
How hot should things get under the hood of a 72 sb. After a short run the air cleaner is too hot to touch as well as everything else. I used and infared gun and the air cleaner was around 220 degrees, the intake was 230, the side of the radiator was 180, and the water pump was about 200, exhaust manifolds were 500+ degrees. Just seems too hot but my temp gauge in the car says 180 and I'm pretty sure its acurate!
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 169
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From: Frederick MD
Don't fret! 220 is well normal, but improvable to a degree. I've found in my relatively new knowledge of motors in general is if it doesn't over heat (aka spew antifreeze, oil or rust, it's doing well). I have a '72 with no air dam on the front and has never overheated since teh radiator was replaced. I hope I can see a noticeable difference when I put one on. 10-15 degrees? Who knows. I'll sleep better!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
With no profile I cant tell where you live, and that makes a difference in my recommendations.....
first thing I would do is get rid of the heat riser below that exhaust mani on the pass side.....block it open, make sure it stays open...better off toe remove entirely and weld the pivot openings.....if you have a mind to, you need pull the intake and plug the heat riser crossover passage under the carb, I have used Plaster of Paris for years for that work, and have some now in my Mani on my car.....totally flameproof, and stops the heat....
carb and mani, and everything on top runs LOTS COOLER>...
now this maybe not the best for way northern wintertime operations, but if you in mild climates, it's fine....you will want to change over to electric choke also, as the old air tube in the crossover will be totally disabled with the plaster trick.....
I think you also want to be damn sure of the overall engine temps....put in a mechanical gauge, and obviously make sure the radiator is in GREAT shape....
see the lower hose don't collapse under higher engine speeds, killing flow....
make sure your thermostat opens properly and don't act funny....I preferr MURRAY brand to Stant....I have had nothing but bad luck with Stant....IMO they are junk....
first thing I would do is get rid of the heat riser below that exhaust mani on the pass side.....block it open, make sure it stays open...better off toe remove entirely and weld the pivot openings.....if you have a mind to, you need pull the intake and plug the heat riser crossover passage under the carb, I have used Plaster of Paris for years for that work, and have some now in my Mani on my car.....totally flameproof, and stops the heat....
carb and mani, and everything on top runs LOTS COOLER>...
now this maybe not the best for way northern wintertime operations, but if you in mild climates, it's fine....you will want to change over to electric choke also, as the old air tube in the crossover will be totally disabled with the plaster trick.....
I think you also want to be damn sure of the overall engine temps....put in a mechanical gauge, and obviously make sure the radiator is in GREAT shape....
see the lower hose don't collapse under higher engine speeds, killing flow....
make sure your thermostat opens properly and don't act funny....I preferr MURRAY brand to Stant....I have had nothing but bad luck with Stant....IMO they are junk....
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 193
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Thanks guys. Its a new rad and I live in the North East but lately its been in the high 80's here. Just rebuilt the engine and thought about blocking the crossover but got talked out of it. Wish I did as I don't plan on driving it in the winter!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
I would pull it off and do the Plaster/Paris trick, it's the ONLY solution that actually works....the blocker plates in some gaskets blow out with fire.....
I know this the hard way....don't ask....
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 169
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From: Frederick MD
You don't need to block off stuff as described. Sure, it may work, but no offense, too "bubba" for my taste. My bone stock 350 doesn't overheat in 95 degree humid, Maryland weather. Without a airdam. Just a well maintained stock unit is fine for a stock application. I may add a shutoff valve on my heater hose just for kicks.
