1982 Markings On Temp Guage
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Instructor
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From: Cameron NC
1982 Markings On Temp Guage
This probably seems like quite a novice question, but I have been told a few different things, and I would like to get a definite answer. The temperature guage is stock in my 1982. I was wondering if anyone could tell me the temperatures at each marking. The markings are as follows, 1 thick line, 1 thin line, 1 thick line, 2 thin lines, then red. 100 is marked on the far left, 200 on the top in the middle, and 260 on the right. Could someone please tell me what the temperature is at each of the lines and at the beginning of the red marking. Thank you.
Nathan
Nathan
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Instructor
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From: Cameron NC
Just wanted to bump this to give it 1 more chance since engine temperature is so crucial right now with less than 400 miles on my engine. Surely someone must know the temperature that corresponds to each marking on the gauge. Thanks,
Nathan
Nathan
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
This probably seems like quite a novice question, but I have been told a few different things, and I would like to get a definite answer. The temperature guage is stock in my 1982. I was wondering if anyone could tell me the temperatures at each marking. The markings are as follows, 1 thick line, 1 thin line, 1 thick line, 2 thin lines, then red. 100 is marked on the far left, 200 on the top in the middle, and 260 on the right. Could someone please tell me what the temperature is at each of the lines and at the beginning of the red marking. Thank you.
Nathan
Nathan
I have one of these 1982 gauges in my '77 and this is how I interpret the markings.
Oh, V-Twin is right these stock gauges are rarely spot on but they will give you a very close estimate of your engine temp at the sender.
Edit: Changed setting to reflect new idea.
Last edited by Durango_Boy; Jul 22, 2008 at 04:59 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,246
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Huh? How can they be rarely spot on and give a close estimate at the same time?
Fact is, I've seen them be off by as much as 20 degrees @ the 200 mark, that's quite a bit. it's not only the gauge,. it's old wiring, corroded connections. it throws it off and depending on the condition of your components it can be off quite a bit.
Want to accurately measure coolant temps? Get a mechanical gauge and tape it to your windshield. I have a very old stewart warner trackforce gauge somewhere just for that, checking coolant temps on cars which either do not have a proper gauge or none at all.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
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From: Bridgewater nj
That's the way I interpret my 82 temp gauge. If you want to check if it's accurate, get one of those hand held lazer infrared temp. reader and point it at the thermostat housing. That should give you the best reading after warm up.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Cameron NC
Wow, that is kind of innerving to see how you guys interpret the gauge markings. I was told that the second solid line was 190 and the line after that 210, however it wasn't a very credible source. By your interpretation my guage has been sitting upwards of 240 when in traffic, and seems to bounce from 240 down to 220 and stay somewhere within that range. If that gauge is reading right, that is pretty bad seeing as by engine has less than 400 miles on it. I replaced the fan clutch, temp switch for the fan, water pump, thermostat, and did a radiator flush when I put in the new engine. I also fixed the lower air dam, it was pushed up and broken a bit, but now it is fixed as stock to allow full air flow. I am going to get an IR temp gun as soon as possible and see if the gauge is correct. I really hope you are correct, and the gauge is just off. Any ideas of what can still be making it run so hot? I know an engine will run a little hotter before fully broken in, but not that hot. Thanks,
Nathan
Nathan
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Wow, that is kind of innerving to see how you guys interpret the gauge markings. I was told that the second solid line was 190 and the line after that 210, however it wasn't a very credible source. By your interpretation my guage has been sitting upwards of 240 when in traffic, and seems to bounce from 240 down to 220 and stay somewhere within that range. If that gauge is reading right, that is pretty bad seeing as by engine has less than 400 miles on it. I replaced the fan clutch, temp switch for the fan, water pump, thermostat, and did a radiator flush when I put in the new engine. I also fixed the lower air dam, it was pushed up and broken a bit, but now it is fixed as stock to allow full air flow. I am going to get an IR temp gun as soon as possible and see if the gauge is correct. I really hope you are correct, and the gauge is just off. Any ideas of what can still be making it run so hot? I know an engine will run a little hotter before fully broken in, but not that hot. Thanks,
Nathan
Nathan
If your timing is advanced or your mixture is lean then it might tend to run hotter.
How are the seals around the shroud, core support, and under the hood? Those foam seals are what keeps air from going around the radiator.
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: San diego ca
Also if you assume 100 degrees at the 100 mark (which seems reasonable to me) then the single hash mark between it and 200 could reasonably be 150.
However I would interpret 260 at the bottom of the red zone not the top...making each hash mark worth 15 degrees.. i.e. 215 - 230 - 245 (top of red) 260 (bottom of red)
I'm pretty confident that 260 degrees at the beginning of the red zone is right out!...
Get a real guage if it worries you... otherwise just make sure it stays below 200 at that level it doesnt matter how inaccurate the gauge is.
Last edited by fauxrs2; Jul 22, 2008 at 05:11 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
I'll buy that...it makes sense that way too. Shame there isn't anything from GM to verify it one way or the other.
I'll modify the image and re-post it if you want to delete the one from your quote.
Oh, and I said V-Twin was right too...they are not accurate. A close estimate in my eyes would be within 10 degrees of accurate.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: Cameron NC
Thank you for all of your replies on this one. I suppose it wasn't such a novice question after all. I too had interpreted it like you guys seem to be, however I wasn't sure if there was a steady increase per mark (15 degrees) after 200, since the 100-200 gap is very small compared to the 200 - 260 gap. I wasn't sure if the gauge would be constant the whole way around.
The only problem with that is, by the way we are interpreting the gauge now, it rarely runs below 200, once it is warmed it, the only time it is below 200 is if I am driving it at night when it is very cool outside. These temperatures are all according to the gauge, which we determined may not be accurate. If we assume a 20 degree inaccuracy, it usually runs between 195 and 210, perfect for a new engine. Let's just hope the 20 degree inaccuracy isn't on the high side. 
I am going to take out my bad electric fuel pump and put in a mechanical system tomorrow. Then it should be running again. As soon as I get that done I will be going to the auto parts store to buy an IR temperature gun to verify my temperatures. Thank You all so much, and thank you durango_boy for the picture.
Nathan
otherwise just make sure it stays below 200 at that level it doesnt matter how inaccurate the gauge is.
I am going to take out my bad electric fuel pump and put in a mechanical system tomorrow. Then it should be running again. As soon as I get that done I will be going to the auto parts store to buy an IR temperature gun to verify my temperatures. Thank You all so much, and thank you durango_boy for the picture.
Nathan
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 140
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From: Tulsa OK
Nathan,
Check out this thread, http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...highlight=ohms it is basically the same issue your facing. There is a chart translating the changes in resistance thru the sending unit into a temp. If you understand how to use a multimeter you can measure the resistance threw the sending unit to ground at your normal operating temp and have definitive number to compare to your gauge. you have a reference point.
Check out this thread, http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...highlight=ohms it is basically the same issue your facing. There is a chart translating the changes in resistance thru the sending unit into a temp. If you understand how to use a multimeter you can measure the resistance threw the sending unit to ground at your normal operating temp and have definitive number to compare to your gauge. you have a reference point.
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 48
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From: Prairieville LA
Your 82 should have a 195 degree thermostat, and should be running just below the 200 degree hash mark. Had a similar problem with mine and the gauge was fine. Changed from a cheap (Valucraft) thermostat to Stant premium and put a lot of effort into getting the air out of the system. Jacked up the front of the car and filled the block with antifreeze from the thermostat housing before installing the new thermostat. Also drilled a 1/8" hole in the flange of the thermostat to vent an air still there. Comes to 195 and lines out every time. I live in south Louisiana and have no problems with overheating in summer. Also, do not have any of the foam gasketing around the shroud, but it doesn't seem to hurt.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: San Diego California
My 80 gauge responds exactly the same with a new "stock" radiator and fluid change and pressure cap-- but I agree with Durago that the large line, just left of center, is the 200 degree mark. If so, our cars run consistently at about 205-210 degrees.