I'm confused, shall I buy a GMPP crate engine of build one from scratch?
#1
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '08
I'm confused, shall I buy a GMPP crate engine of build one from scratch?
I was saving some cash to get another motor for my numbers matching '71 BB, so I can leave the original engine alone and have another one in so I can freely abuse it , I have two different routes, to buy a new GMPP crate engine , thinking about a ZZ454 which I found for $5999, or building one from scratch using the following parts :
1- 30 over block, 4 bolts mains (free from a friend).
2- Eagle balanced rotating assembly (Summit # B18401000 )
3- Comp. Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kit ( Summit # SK11-413-8 ).
4- AFR 305cc As Cast Magnum BBC Head ( AFR # 2100 )
5- LS6 Aluminum intake (from ebay)
6- Demon carb (I still dont know which model to go for)
7- Oil pan, timing chain cover, gaskets, bolts, oil pump ... etc.
The second option would cost around $4000-$4500.
So as you notice, the cost is not alot cheaper than getting a turn-key engine, so what do you think? .. I am alittle biased towards building one, its just fun to do it, and you'll get to learn new things (actually, it would be my first total engine build). But at the same time, I feel that the new Gen VI block is a modernized version of the old Gen IV, and has less problems (esp. over-heating!).
I need as much openions as you can supply!
1- 30 over block, 4 bolts mains (free from a friend).
2- Eagle balanced rotating assembly (Summit # B18401000 )
3- Comp. Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kit ( Summit # SK11-413-8 ).
4- AFR 305cc As Cast Magnum BBC Head ( AFR # 2100 )
5- LS6 Aluminum intake (from ebay)
6- Demon carb (I still dont know which model to go for)
7- Oil pan, timing chain cover, gaskets, bolts, oil pump ... etc.
The second option would cost around $4000-$4500.
So as you notice, the cost is not alot cheaper than getting a turn-key engine, so what do you think? .. I am alittle biased towards building one, its just fun to do it, and you'll get to learn new things (actually, it would be my first total engine build). But at the same time, I feel that the new Gen VI block is a modernized version of the old Gen IV, and has less problems (esp. over-heating!).
I need as much openions as you can supply!
Last edited by HamadUP; 07-22-2008 at 05:23 PM.
#2
Team Owner
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Usually I side with the building myself but in your case I would suggest the crate engine.
The big reason is it's your original big block. Keep it bagged and safe.
Another, as you mentioned, is updated technology. The crate engine will be a roller engine with a more efficient piston ring pack design, and will probably be more efficient for coolant flow.
Finally...warranty. You get no warranty on an engine you build yourself. If something goes wrong you pay and you do the work yourself. The crate engine will have a warranty to help cover you.
The big reason is it's your original big block. Keep it bagged and safe.
Another, as you mentioned, is updated technology. The crate engine will be a roller engine with a more efficient piston ring pack design, and will probably be more efficient for coolant flow.
Finally...warranty. You get no warranty on an engine you build yourself. If something goes wrong you pay and you do the work yourself. The crate engine will have a warranty to help cover you.
#3
Heel & Toe
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Crate engine = dependable, built right, fairly easy project, good deal, possible warranty, best option
DIY= provides a sense of accomplishment, may be more expensive in the long run, more difficult, bragging rights, most fun and rewarding
Just gotta weigh the options and pick what you think is best for you. I say put a LS motor in it...but then again, I may be a little bias.
DIY= provides a sense of accomplishment, may be more expensive in the long run, more difficult, bragging rights, most fun and rewarding
Just gotta weigh the options and pick what you think is best for you. I say put a LS motor in it...but then again, I may be a little bias.
#4
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '08
Usually I side with the building myself but in your case I would suggest the crate engine.
The big reason is it's your original big block. Keep it bagged and safe.
Another, as you mentioned, is updated technology. The crate engine will be a roller engine with a more efficient piston ring pack design, and will probably be more efficient for coolant flow.
Finally...warranty. You get no warranty on an engine you build yourself. If something goes wrong you pay and you do the work yourself. The crate engine will have a warranty to help cover you.
The big reason is it's your original big block. Keep it bagged and safe.
Another, as you mentioned, is updated technology. The crate engine will be a roller engine with a more efficient piston ring pack design, and will probably be more efficient for coolant flow.
Finally...warranty. You get no warranty on an engine you build yourself. If something goes wrong you pay and you do the work yourself. The crate engine will have a warranty to help cover you.
Crate engine = dependable, built right, fairly easy project, good deal, possible warranty, best option
DIY= provides a sense of accomplishment, may be more expensive in the long run, more difficult, bragging rights, most fun and rewarding
Just gotta weigh the options and pick what you think is best for you. I say put a LS motor in it...but then again, I may be a little bias.
DIY= provides a sense of accomplishment, may be more expensive in the long run, more difficult, bragging rights, most fun and rewarding
Just gotta weigh the options and pick what you think is best for you. I say put a LS motor in it...but then again, I may be a little bias.
#6
Team Owner
Usually I side with the building myself but in your case I would suggest the crate engine.
The big reason is it's your original big block. Keep it bagged and safe.
Another, as you mentioned, is updated technology. The crate engine will be a roller engine with a more efficient piston ring pack design, and will probably be more efficient for coolant flow.
Finally...warranty. You get no warranty on an engine you build yourself. If something goes wrong you pay and you do the work yourself. The crate engine will have a warranty to help cover you.
The big reason is it's your original big block. Keep it bagged and safe.
Another, as you mentioned, is updated technology. The crate engine will be a roller engine with a more efficient piston ring pack design, and will probably be more efficient for coolant flow.
Finally...warranty. You get no warranty on an engine you build yourself. If something goes wrong you pay and you do the work yourself. The crate engine will have a warranty to help cover you.
obvious attention to details, but that involves another story here on this side of the pond with some buddies and a long suffering boat....
#8
Drifting
Crate. You are on the other side of the pond from almost everything you need to build your motor. I know that you have said that you have parts stores, etc. but a small essential part could hold you up for weeks when most of us can get next day delivery on virtually any part.
#9
Senior Member since 1492
I built my 468 from scratch, took me about 2.5 years as $$ and time would allow. I would seriously reconsider the LS-6 intake unless your concerned about it fitting under a BB hood.
If I would do it all over again, I would have the engine shop assemble the bottom end. I wasted so much time checking and checking and rechecking the clearances, crank, pistons, rings etc. It got to the point where I had 4 pistons/rings in the cylinders and then pulled them out again to check the ring gap.
All in all it was a great experience. It was the first time I did a complete bottom up rebuild by myself.....with the help of a lot of guys on the forum here...many of whom don't come around anymore. Ironcross, 427 Hotrod and 69N.O.X.R.A.T.T are some good guys to consult.
I'm not sure about your intake,cam & head choice as you want all 3 to work together. Those pistons in that kit have a -22cc head volume which will lower your compression ratio. I'm using 1971 LS-6 replacements (Vette) from TRW and they are forged. They have a cylinder head volume of +13.6cc which helps a lot increasing CR.
All in all, I would study up on engines, components and how they can work together or fight each other. You also want to match your heads to the generation of 454 bolck you have....Mark IV, Gen 5, 6 as there are differences.
You can checkout my site below to get an idea of what I did.
Good luck which ever way you go.
If I would do it all over again, I would have the engine shop assemble the bottom end. I wasted so much time checking and checking and rechecking the clearances, crank, pistons, rings etc. It got to the point where I had 4 pistons/rings in the cylinders and then pulled them out again to check the ring gap.
All in all it was a great experience. It was the first time I did a complete bottom up rebuild by myself.....with the help of a lot of guys on the forum here...many of whom don't come around anymore. Ironcross, 427 Hotrod and 69N.O.X.R.A.T.T are some good guys to consult.
I'm not sure about your intake,cam & head choice as you want all 3 to work together. Those pistons in that kit have a -22cc head volume which will lower your compression ratio. I'm using 1971 LS-6 replacements (Vette) from TRW and they are forged. They have a cylinder head volume of +13.6cc which helps a lot increasing CR.
All in all, I would study up on engines, components and how they can work together or fight each other. You also want to match your heads to the generation of 454 bolck you have....Mark IV, Gen 5, 6 as there are differences.
You can checkout my site below to get an idea of what I did.
Good luck which ever way you go.
#10
Former Vendor
The great thing about the crate motor is the WARRANTY!!!!
(look what happened to me when I fired up my first motor for the road race car if you recall)
It had a lifespan of 30 seconds.
It was however a crate motor from a reputable seller and in 7 days i had another one sitting on the floor.
Try that with your local machine shop if god forbid you have an issue!!!!
My .02
(look what happened to me when I fired up my first motor for the road race car if you recall)
It had a lifespan of 30 seconds.
It was however a crate motor from a reputable seller and in 7 days i had another one sitting on the floor.
Try that with your local machine shop if god forbid you have an issue!!!!
My .02
#11
Le Mans Master
Hamad, if you build that engine you are planning, its gonna make WAY more power then a ZZ454....Now if you are daily driving the car(I thought you were) then go ZZ but if you are building it for a play toy, build your BB. You can build a 496 for pennies over what it cost to do a 454 (if the 454 needs the crank/rods) and make some real power.
A 496 with the AFRs you selected and a good hyd roller or even a good HYD flat tappet will make 600hp. Don't need to get crazy with the cam either. Buddy of mine built a 496 with ported Edelbrock ovals, an old Ultradyne hyd flat tappet and it dynoed 611hp on 93 oct. Thats with a RPM manifold. If you can get parts and source a decent machine shop over there, I would build it.
A 496 with the AFRs you selected and a good hyd roller or even a good HYD flat tappet will make 600hp. Don't need to get crazy with the cam either. Buddy of mine built a 496 with ported Edelbrock ovals, an old Ultradyne hyd flat tappet and it dynoed 611hp on 93 oct. Thats with a RPM manifold. If you can get parts and source a decent machine shop over there, I would build it.
#12
Safety Car
Most guys don't know this, but if you read the GM warranty closely, it says the warranty is void if you install the engine yourself. You must have the engine installed by a certified shop if you want the warranty.
#13
Pro
I have to go with a crate to, its just a matter of calling them up and the motor is delivered with warranty to. Its the warranty part and the price of the crate that you really cant beat. Good luck, let us know which way you go.
#15
Drifting
Hamad, if you build that engine you are planning, its gonna make WAY more power then a ZZ454....Now if you are daily driving the car(I thought you were) then go ZZ but if you are building it for a play toy, build your BB. You can build a 496 for pennies over what it cost to do a 454 (if the 454 needs the crank/rods) and make some real power.
A 496 with the AFRs you selected and a good hyd roller or even a good HYD flat tappet will make 600hp. Don't need to get crazy with the cam either. Buddy of mine built a 496 with ported Edelbrock ovals, an old Ultradyne hyd flat tappet and it dynoed 611hp on 93 oct. Thats with a RPM manifold. If you can get parts and source a decent machine shop over there, I would build it.
A 496 with the AFRs you selected and a good hyd roller or even a good HYD flat tappet will make 600hp. Don't need to get crazy with the cam either. Buddy of mine built a 496 with ported Edelbrock ovals, an old Ultradyne hyd flat tappet and it dynoed 611hp on 93 oct. Thats with a RPM manifold. If you can get parts and source a decent machine shop over there, I would build it.
If you have access to them, I would trade a warranty for 100+ hp most any day of the week.
Well, it would be 100+hp if you pick a bigger cam. That one you linked to is tiny.
Last edited by DRIVESHAFT; 07-23-2008 at 10:59 AM.
#16
Burning Brakes
Crate. You are on the other side of the pond from almost everything you need to build your motor. I know that you have said that you have parts stores, etc. but a small essential part could hold you up for weeks when most of us can get next day delivery on virtually any part.
#17
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '08
I see most of replies recommend getting a crate motor. But if your main criteria is the warranty, then its useless to me! .. mine will not be covered because it would be exported out of US.
As far as the machine shops are concerned, I have no problem with that, we are mainly industrial city, and there are a lot of machine shops here, I only would have them to bore or hone (depending on the block condition) the bores, which is not that difficult job to do. the rotating assembly will be brand new and already balanced.
I just got the shipping quotation from Summit, for all the items mentioned, $4400 including shipping, now I will ask another shipping quotation for the ZZ454 engine, and lets hope the shipping cost wont cost me arm and leg.
As far as the machine shops are concerned, I have no problem with that, we are mainly industrial city, and there are a lot of machine shops here, I only would have them to bore or hone (depending on the block condition) the bores, which is not that difficult job to do. the rotating assembly will be brand new and already balanced.
I just got the shipping quotation from Summit, for all the items mentioned, $4400 including shipping, now I will ask another shipping quotation for the ZZ454 engine, and lets hope the shipping cost wont cost me arm and leg.
#18
Team Owner
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Very pleased with my ZZ4 engine. The engines are ran at the factory so you know there's nothing seriously wrong with them. When I first cranked up my ZZ4, the starter only ran for a second or two before the engine started. It ran fine.
#19
Drifting
I too just completed a 3 year build that ended up at $5500. Looking back a crate would have saved a lot of pain and suffering and with a warranty it's hard to beat.
#20
Pro