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Just found that out bud.... We were thinking it was like earlier 327s with the vent tube in the block. I believe we now have it 68 was vented from both valve covers one to the air cleaner and one to the front port of the carb....correct?
I hate to keep this going but.....
As stated earlier I kept blowing the seal...before that seal blew out I could get the timing down right on the mark. Then when it blew it would throw it off. So I fix the problem with the seal...PCV in filler tube and breather installed on passenger side valve cover. I cant get the timing line down to where it needs to be. Why would this effect it ? I put it where it sounds the best run it and it is all fine. I shut it down and it will not start when warm. Any suggestions.... I thought that maybe the rubber bushing on the harmonic balancer has moved and can not get the timing to specs, but want to be sure that I am not missing something simple.
If you think the pcv hookup is causing your problem, try temporarily plugging the pcv line to the carb and see if it cures it.
Then check the carb base gasket for leaks with starter fluid or propane. You may have the wrong gasket there for the old intake.
More likely since you put on an old aftermarket intake with an oil fill tube, you may have used an incorrect intake gasket set and have an internal air leak. It is a common mistake.
If all else fails, remove the intake again and match the ports on the intake and also on the block to the gasket set.
More likely since you put on an old aftermarket intake with an oil fill tube, you may have used an incorrect intake gasket set and have an internal air leak. It is a common mistake.
Do you have the thin steel plate under the carb?
Are you disconnecting the vacuum to the dist. when setting the timing?
Have you checked the mechanical advance in the dist. to see its not sticking?
You have a few alternatives. Put breathers in the valve covers. Also on the end rails of the block 3M weather stripping cement placed on a clean site and allowed to set up will hold nearly anything from moving and cure the front seal from blowing out. This actually could be caused by setting the intake back on the block. Using the 3M sealer {yellow or black} cures this from happening. The gasket can not move accidentally.
I checked intake gaskets..they line up to both intake and heads.
No mechanical advance in distributor?...switched over to electronic?
Vacuum is pluged at the carb...
And the carb was in three sections top / middle / and a bottm plate about a half an inch thick....is that the thin plate you are talking about?
I will try disconecting the pcv and blocking the port, but that is how the gasket blew in the first place.....maybe it wont with the breather on the valve cover now.
No...under the carb is a very thin plate that has the same shape as the thick base gasket.Better ask does your manifold have a channel that goes side to side in front of primary bores?
I checked intake gaskets..they line up to both intake and heads.
No mechanical advance in distributor?...switched over to electronic?
Vacuum is pluged at the carb...
And the carb was in three sections top / middle / and a bottm plate about a half an inch thick....is that the thin plate you are talking about? I will try disconecting the pcv and blocking the port, but that is how the gasket blew in the first place.....maybe it wont with the breather on the valve cover now.
That test suggestion was just to see if your new pcv hookup created an air leak, raising your stable idle and possibly throwing you into mechanical advance.
I am not posative, but it was a soft matereal. It came from a rebuild kit through ZIP corvette products. It kind of looked like a universal kit with a few different gaskets in it..