Question on prepping 69 wiper door
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,246
Likes: 114
From: Watkins Glen NY
Question on prepping 69 wiper door
I am in the process of removing the 5 layers of paint
on the door layer by layer. I finally ran out of some stripper I had sitting around and am sanding the rest down to bare steel.
Is there any reason to not sand the rest of the stubborn paint off of the stainless trim piece? I have some of the stainless exposed, and some remaining paint that would not scrape off. If its being painted like the rest of the door should it matter how I get the rest of the paint off?
It just feels like I shouldn't sand the stainless--like it's not the right thing to do.
Any opinion on this?
Thanks, Joe
on the door layer by layer. I finally ran out of some stripper I had sitting around and am sanding the rest down to bare steel.Is there any reason to not sand the rest of the stubborn paint off of the stainless trim piece? I have some of the stainless exposed, and some remaining paint that would not scrape off. If its being painted like the rest of the door should it matter how I get the rest of the paint off?
It just feels like I shouldn't sand the stainless--like it's not the right thing to do.
Any opinion on this?Thanks, Joe
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
I experienced pretty much the same situation. Background: My car (70BB) was re-painted with a metallic greenish-blueish lacquer, and then later the car was coated with a thick primer and then a red urethane. The urethane is thick and hard, but with it's soft primer underlay, it chips easy. I'm removing all the red and its underlying lacquer.
On my wiper door and stainless steel strip (I've removed the strip) I've removed all the red and primer. The lacquer (well I think it's lacquer) is very hard and tenacious. It won't come off easy...so I thought...getting paint to stick to polished stainless steel is difficult. If I've got paint that's so hard and so stuck to the stainless, then I'll just let it be. I figure it'll make a good undercoating with whatever I paint I end up putting on the car.
On my wiper door and stainless steel strip (I've removed the strip) I've removed all the red and primer. The lacquer (well I think it's lacquer) is very hard and tenacious. It won't come off easy...so I thought...getting paint to stick to polished stainless steel is difficult. If I've got paint that's so hard and so stuck to the stainless, then I'll just let it be. I figure it'll make a good undercoating with whatever I paint I end up putting on the car.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,246
Likes: 114
From: Watkins Glen NY
; just feeling cheaper than normal today to go get some more stripper--but what do you mean by not being able to effectively grind it smooth again if I am priming and wet sanding before the paint? (the metal, not necc. the stainless). It won't come off easy...so I thought...getting paint to stick to polished stainless steel is difficult. If I've got paint that's so hard and so stuck to the stainless, then I'll just let it be. I figure it'll make a good undercoating with whatever I paint I end up putting on the car.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
One last thought....have you removed the wiper door? If not, and you decide to remove it be careful.
The door is connected to the opening mechanism by four small bolts, two at each end. The small bolts have even smaller shanks that are threaded into the door, which is pot metal (although it's a quality grade of pot metal). If the rather thin diameter bolt shanks corrode, then when you try to remove them, they'll break leaving a portion of the threaded portion inside the door. This happened to me. I had to send the door to Paragon to have two bolt fragments removed. They had to drill one out and then had to helicoil the hole. Cost about $75 labor.
...........and if your's didn't snap when you removed them, put anti-seaze on the bolts when you re-install them.
The door is connected to the opening mechanism by four small bolts, two at each end. The small bolts have even smaller shanks that are threaded into the door, which is pot metal (although it's a quality grade of pot metal). If the rather thin diameter bolt shanks corrode, then when you try to remove them, they'll break leaving a portion of the threaded portion inside the door. This happened to me. I had to send the door to Paragon to have two bolt fragments removed. They had to drill one out and then had to helicoil the hole. Cost about $75 labor.
...........and if your's didn't snap when you removed them, put anti-seaze on the bolts when you re-install them.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,246
Likes: 114
From: Watkins Glen NY
One last thought....have you removed the wiper door? If not, and you decide to remove it be careful.
The door is connected to the opening mechanism by four small bolts, two at each end. The small bolts have even smaller shanks that are threaded into the door, which is pot metal (although it's a quality grade of pot metal). If the rather thin diameter bolt shanks corrode, then when you try to remove them, they'll break leaving a portion of the threaded portion inside the door. This happened to me. I had to send the door to Paragon to have two bolt fragments removed. They had to drill one out and then had to helicoil the hole. Cost about $75 labor.
...........and if your's didn't snap when you removed them, put anti-seaze on the bolts when you re-install them.
The door is connected to the opening mechanism by four small bolts, two at each end. The small bolts have even smaller shanks that are threaded into the door, which is pot metal (although it's a quality grade of pot metal). If the rather thin diameter bolt shanks corrode, then when you try to remove them, they'll break leaving a portion of the threaded portion inside the door. This happened to me. I had to send the door to Paragon to have two bolt fragments removed. They had to drill one out and then had to helicoil the hole. Cost about $75 labor.
...........and if your's didn't snap when you removed them, put anti-seaze on the bolts when you re-install them.
My door was already removed when I got the car, and the threads are in good shape!
