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long post, odd problem, need help please

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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 05:25 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BarryK
of course I put the blts back in at the bottom of the core support.
I only ask in case there were none there to begin with and you didnt realize there should be.
There are 4 bolts at the bottom of the support.2 go up into the bottom of the support.the other 2 hold the 90 degree brackets to the frame...they have large holes to allow for adjustment.If you loosen those and jack up the nose and tighten them you are done.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 05:57 PM
  #22  
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yep, I know the 4 bolts and 2 brackets.

here are mine after glass beading them and before painting when I was working on the car 2 years ago



honestly, without adding shims, I don't understand how loosing up these bolts, jacking up the car, than tightening the bolts again is going to keep the nose of the car raised up for clearance to the fan. they are mounted to the same area being lifted so everything will move together.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 06:42 PM
  #23  
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Mine had shims under the core support, if you shim it up that will fix the fan clerance, but it would also push the entire front clip up in the front, but we are only talking 3/8" or so right ?
my Guess, is shim the radiator support.
good luck, post us the results !

69VETT
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 08:50 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
There are 4 bolts at the bottom of the support. 2 go up into the bottom of the support. the other 2 hold the 90 degree brackets to the frame...
they have large holes to allow for adjustment. If you loosen those and jack up the nose and tighten them you are done.
Raising the brackets and securing them in their proper position will hold the support assembly in the correct place.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 09:03 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by BarryK
that's the truth!



ok, I'm following you so far.... I can understand this, lowring the core support without moving the nose gives me the hood clearance. So far so good.



ok, this is making sense. the first step only lowered the core support to give the hood room, but now we are jacking up the core support to gain the clearance for the fan but also raising the entire nose with it, including the hood, that that won't affect the adjustment from step one. I got ya.

Isn't this basically accomplishing the same as shimming the bottom of the core support as many cars had from the factory (but mine didn't)?

Oh wait, one thing I don't get though as i'm playing this thru my mind. Without adding shims under the core support, I don't see how the nose is going to stay up and not droop down again once the jack is removed. How are the bolts on the bottom of the core support going to keep the nose up?
At this first stage you are raising the core support, and front clip with the hood up and leaving the impact bar/vacuum tube in place. There should be enough room for adjustment in the larger holes of the angled mounting brackets for what you need. One hole in the angle bracjet is for front to back and the other is for up and down. When you tighten the big bolts with the big serrated washers they will grip enough to hold in place. I don't recall the factory ever using any shims there, but if you run out of room up and down, you could shim slightly between the core support and the bracket, but that's not proper.
This may stress the other braces though.

If that set wasn't enough (the amount the angle brackets gave you), you have to go on to this to prevent any unequal stressing.
Loosen the bolts on each side of the frame horn that hold the frame extentions, the vacuum tube mounts and the front bumper support end reinforcements. Same thing here, the holes are much bigger than the bolts and you can jack the whole assembly up which ultimately will raise the fan shroud up off the front frame crossmember barely. In that position you should be equal spaced with your fan. Retighten the bolts and you should be done. A little jacking goes a long way. Do all this with the hood closed but not latched. You may have to realign the hood locks as a last step.

Lay under there with your jack etc and stare, it will come to you.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 09:04 PM
  #26  
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I hope I am not stealing this thread but I do have question pertaining to this area ? The complete body rides on rubber body mounts, (70's vintage) and is isolated from the frame. Yet The core support mounts solid to the frame, which bolts solid to the front clip ??
It seems this would put stress on the body with a solid connection at the Core support ? It would seem logical the core support should have isolators to the frame to match the rest of the body attachment points ? I relize the 68-69 had solid mounts.

In fact on my 69, I changed over to Poly mounts, which raises the body app. 1/4" vs solid aluminum mounts. I have added 1/4" of Rubber Isolation under the core support to compensate for the poly mount extra height. My fan and radiator line up just fine, but I have not added the front clip yet, time will tell how the fit is in a nother 6 months. 69 VETT
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 09:15 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by noonie
At this first stage you are raising the core support, and front clip with the hood up and leaving the impact bar/vacuum tube in place. There should be enough room for adjustment in the larger holes of the angled mounting brackets for what you need. One hole in the angle bracjet is for front to back and the other is for up and down. When you tighten the big bolts with the big serrated washers they will grip enough to hold in place. I don't recall the factory ever using any shims there, but if you run out of room up and down, you could shim slightly between the core support and the bracket, but that's not proper.
This may stress the other braces though.

If that set wasn't enough (the amount the angle brackets gave you), you have to go on to this to prevent any unequal stressing.
Loosen the bolts on each side of the frame horn that hold the frame extentions, the vacuum tube mounts and the front bumper support end reinforcements. Same thing here, the holes are much bigger than the bolts and you can jack the whole assembly up which ultimately will raise the fan shroud up off the front frame crossmember barely. In that position you should be equal spaced with your fan. Retighten the bolts and you should be done. A little jacking goes a long way. Do all this with the hood closed but not latched. You may have to realign the hood locks as a last step.

Lay under there with your jack etc and stare, it will come to you.
yeah, I'll get under there and look before doing anything but i think I get what you mean now. I was only thinking of the 2 bolts that go into the bottom of the core support but now I THINK I understand what you are referring to are the other two bolts in the brackets that mount the brackets to the frame. By playing with the available movement on them I can raise the whole assembly. Makes more sense now I think.

thanks! sorry, I'm not always the brightest bulb on the tree and at times you need to pound the ideas into me with a heavy duty sledge hammer.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 09:21 PM
  #28  
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There's alot going on under there in a pretty tight space.


Cut a 2x4 to fit the bottom of the coresupport for the jack.

If you have to go to the last step/method with the horns, put the 2x4 under the braces for the vacuum tube and jack leaving the angle brackets bolted tight.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 09:31 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 69Vett
I hope I am not stealing this thread but I do have question pertaining to this area ? The complete body rides on rubber body mounts, (70's vintage) and is isolated from the frame. Yet The core support mounts solid to the frame, which bolts solid to the front clip ??
It seems this would put stress on the body with a solid connection at the Core support ? It would seem logical the core support should have isolators to the frame to match the rest of the body attachment points ? I relize the 68-69 had solid mounts.

In fact on my 69, I changed over to Poly mounts, which raises the body app. 1/4" vs solid aluminum mounts. I have added 1/4" of Rubber Isolation under the core support to compensate for the poly mount extra height. My fan and radiator line up just fine, but I have not added the front clip yet, time will tell how the fit is in a nother 6 months. 69 VETT

Even with the later rubber mounts, nothing moved much. They probably figured that the fiberglass would absorb all the vibration, by the time it got to the cockpit anyway.

Keep your coresupport/shroud/fan in perfect alignment and glue up everyhting else to fit to that. You have plenty of slop to play with when at the gluing stage.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 09:34 PM
  #30  
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I have no intention of going that last step and loosening the frame extension bolts. I didn't touch them at all while working on the car before, I know there was no movement of them while working on the car and it was up on the stands as it would have been very noticeable with on the frame if it had moved so I would be extremely surprised if I had to move them now.
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 11:57 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BarryK
I have no intention of going that last step and loosening the frame extension bolts. I didn't touch them at all while working on the car before, I know there was no movement of them while working on the car and it was up on the stands as it would have been very noticeable with on the frame if it had moved so I would be extremely surprised if I had to move them now.
I agree. I wouldn't loosen anything that you haven't already adjusted. Afterall, it lined up when you started.
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 12:48 AM
  #32  
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Hey Barry. You stated that you expect there to be about 1/2" clearance between the fan and the shroud. I know mine don't have that much so I went out and checked.
The largest gap among the four was 3/16"(I used a drill bit as a gauge). One was 1/8" and I remember it hitting while I jacked it up with the motor running once.
Curious as to what you did with your exhaust. Did you retain the Y pipes and specifically the hanger that mounts above the trans mount? I know it's only 1/8" thick but that could pivot the engine slightly on the motor mounts.
I've read where factory side pipe Vettes would get a shim in place of the hanger for this reason.
Or....if you think the motor mounts are raising it up, could you add a small shim at the trans mount to even it out?
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 07:17 AM
  #33  
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Hi Mike

I based the 1/2" clearance on the older cars such as my '65. I assumed it was about the same on the later cars but may be a bit off. Either way, if you have 1/8" - 1/4" clearance from the top of your fanblade to the shroud you have at least twice the clearance I have.

As for the exhaust system I never touch it except to unbolt the system from the exhaust manifolds when I was removing the motor, everything is still there and the mounts, etc were not touched
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 07:18 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 70 LS1
I agree. I wouldn't loosen anything that you haven't already adjusted. Afterall, it lined up when you started.
yep, I see no reason why they would have moved and don't foresee needing to touch those
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 09:39 AM
  #35  
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OK its been a couple of days now,,,,maybe I missed it but did you check the motor mount issue out?

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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 09:21 AM
  #36  
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Barry...What did you find out?
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 09:32 AM
  #37  
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sorry guys, I ran into issues this weekend that prevented me from being able to work on the car.
finding a new job is taking precedence over everything, including time that I'd rather spend working on the Vettes but we need to do what we need to do for priorities.

when I get a chance to work on it and find out what worked to resolve the problem I'll let you know.
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Old Aug 25, 2009 | 09:41 PM
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Hi BarryK,
Did you resolve this problem ???
If so what was the fix ??
I'm going thru the same dilema
at the moment & any help would be great.
Cheers
Gav
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