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i like to rtv it to the cover. put something through the holes so the gasket sits in the correct position and then let it sit the night with a weight on it .makes it easy for when you screw it down .
No RTV. I use studs instead of bolts so the gaskets stay in place. Aluminum valve covers. Tighten once, run and get hot, then retighten. No leaks and easy to remove if necessary.
Studs are a good way to go. If you do glue the gaskets with RTV, place the RTV on the covers only. If you ever have to remove the covers you won't have gaskets stuck to your heads.
Studs are good but not everyone has the room to take the valve cover straight up and down. Mine have to be slid in to some degree because of varying interferences.
I usually will, as mentioned above, RTV the gasket to the valve cover, let it cure, and then install on the head.
I use High Tack Gasket Sealant to "glue" the gaskets to the valve cover to keep them aligned and in position when installing the cover.
I apply it, let it set up for a minute or two than install the gaskets on the valve covers than simply install the valve covers on the heads.
No oozing of RTV with this method, the gaskets stay in place during installation, and no leaks.
BTW, I personally experienced best results using the basic and inexpensive cork gaskets. I've tried the expensive (reusable) rubber/metal gaskets from Felpro and they leaked like a sieve but I never get leaks from the cork gaskets. go figure!
Great comments. Here's another - put RTV/sealant on gasket and cover - let sit over night to let it cure, then put on with no movement of gasket. I used double cork with steel in the middle and works great. If you have the original '75 covers they might be warped and that's the real cause of the leaks. I got heavy duty valve covers that do not warp.
I use High Tack Gasket Sealant to "glue" the gaskets to the valve cover to keep them aligned and in position when installing the cover.
I apply it, let it set up for a minute or two than install the gaskets on the valve covers than simply install the valve covers on the heads.
No oozing of RTV with this method, the gaskets stay in place during installation, and no leaks.
BTW, I personally experienced best results using the basic and inexpensive cork gaskets. I've tried the expensive (reusable) rubber/metal gaskets from Felpro and they leaked like a sieve but I never get leaks from the cork gaskets. go figure!
We used weatherstrip adhesive, small dabs at various locations to hold gasket to v/c. Then use load spreaders at each bolt for better clamp load.
GM used different thickness of sheetmetal valve covers over the years plus the chrome aftermarket v/c are kind of thin also. This thin, out of flat condition, is the main reason for leakage.
BK, I'm currious what v/c you used that "it leaked like a sieve"? Also which cylinder head was used, OE or aftermarket? #1628 works best with the aftermarket flat flange and an aluminum v/c that also has a fairly flat thicker flange. These can be used on OE heads and tin covers but sometimes the bead on gasket can roll over during install or over compression depending on which type of load spreaders. High load from bending covers can split the bead and the rounded casting of the OE heads is not perfect either.
I have an early (prototype) #1628 set on a '59 with OE heads and a milled "Corvette" alum cover (bad flatness as cast) with no leaks with over 5 years of use.
BK, I'm currious what v/c you used that "it leaked like a sieve"? Also which cylinder head was used, OE or aftermarket? #1628 works best with the aftermarket flat flange and an aluminum v/c that also has a fairly flat thicker flange. These can be used on OE heads and tin covers but sometimes the bead on gasket can roll over during install or over compression depending on which type of load spreaders. High load from bending covers can split the bead and the rounded casting of the OE heads is not perfect either.
this was on my '78 L82. At the time (2 years ago) it was an original 9,789 mile car. Stock L82 aluminum valve covers, stock heads. Everything on the motor is and was 100% stock parts.
Since the valve covers were off when it was time to reinstall them I used the Felpro rubber gaskets with the metal plate in them (don't remember the model #. A friend had a set he didn't use so gave them to me still new in the package so I figured I'd use them).
Like I said, they leaked like a sieve! Pulled the v/c's off again and did them my normal way with the High Tack and basic cork gaskets and not a drop out of them since.
Of course the thing that p*ssed me off the most about the deal was that if it happened to me on my '65 it wouldn't have been that much of an issue, I can R&R my '65 v/c's in about 5 minutes total for both sides but of course on the '78 you have vacuum hoses, gas line, AC compressor, PCV valve, breather vent tube, and everything else in the way of removing and reinstalling the v/c's so it's a real PIA which means a hassle I just didn't need.
It never dries holds gaskets in place and aids in sealing. I've used it for years in many applications such as valve covers where the part is removed from time to time. JMO
I glue them to the covers only... I then use a very thin layer of black grease on the engine/head side. I have been doing this for years on all of my vehicles and never had one leak or had a problem removing them to adjust the valves.
Studs are good but not everyone has the room to take the valve cover straight up and down. Mine have to be slid in to some degree because of varying interferences.
I usually will, as mentioned above, RTV the gasket to the valve cover, let it cure, and then install on the head.
My ARP studs are only about 1" tall. Getting the valve cover over the rockers is a much bigger issue.