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I used to have a link to a unique engine leveler, with a cable and ratchet pulley system, called and Oberg Tilt Lift Engine Sling.
The link does not work and I cannot find anything about an Oberg in Google.
Anyone familiar with this leveler and know the current place to buy?
It's neat because it uses front and rear attach points, but has a ratchet pulley instead of a worm gear, so you just spin the pulley to tilt the engine one way or the other.
It's very cool but I just never ordered one and now I can't find them.
I have one & your right... Great tool.... You can get them from Moss Motors... About $75.00 bucks.. Here is the web address/link...
People can write testimonials 'till hell freezes over, still won't change the way I feel. All those manifold lifter guys talk about are the studs. But there has to be something that attaches the bracket to those studs. As in little bitty nuts and washers. I'll still take a nice meaty 3/8ths grade 8 bolt and heavy duty chain over some (possibly made in china...hahaha) studs and nuts to lift out an engine. Been working fine for me for many years of engine pulls.
People can write testimonials 'till hell freezes over, still won't change the way I feel. All those manifold lifter guys talk about are the studs. But there has to be something that attaches the bracket to those studs. As in little bitty nuts and washers. I'll still take a nice meaty 3/8ths grade 8 bolt and heavy duty chain over some (possibly made in china...hahaha) studs and nuts to lift out an engine. Been working fine for me for many years of engine pulls.
No one is writing tesimonials here, just trying to enlighten people on other methods that also work successfully. Personnally, I've used both methods and found I have better control over the load with the lift plate.
Good luck to the OP with your pull, which ever method you use.
Cool... I bought mine from Moss several years ago & paid about half of what they are selling them for now. Must be the high price of gas... Take care...
No one is writing tesimonials here, just trying to enlighten people on other methods that also work successfully. Personnally, I've used both methods and found I have better control over the load with the lift plate.
Good luck to the OP with your pull, which ever method you use.
Hope you didn't take offense. I'm an old geezer and pretty set in my ways. People tend to use what they have experience with and what has worked best for them.
Hope you didn't take offense. I'm an old geezer and pretty set in my ways. People tend to use what they have experience with and what has worked best for them.
I use towing straps centered by lifting off the engine stand so it drops in straight. No transmissions hanging on, they screw up the installation trying to throw everything in at the same time. Chains work but are normally accompanied with risks of hitting items already mounted and nice paint jobs.
No offense intended but I don't even know if that is a step up from the manifold bolts using only one bolt in the front and rear.
This is the only thing I would use:
...and I would be offended why????? Everyone has their own way of doing things... Usually based on experience... I have experience with the Oberg & I like it... Nothing wrong with attaching all 4 corners either. Just preference...
I also like the carb plates and have used them with great results but would not use it with an engine/trans installed as a unit. Just seems like to much ackward weight.
I'm curious Chris, would you say that tilting an engine and transmission to go into an engine bay from over a fender...to be an extreme angle?
Oh and I ordered one of your plates too, right after I ordered the Oberg. What can I say, I like having extra tools.
I do not recommend lifting the engine and tranny together with a manifold lift plate because depending on the combination, you can generate excessive angles (> 45 degrees). Even though the numbers say that you're still safe, I just do not personally like it because many times you can't level the engine/tranny combo because the CG is outside the adjustment range of the plate. If I were going to lift them together, I would use a spreader bar with four nylon straps and attach the brackets to 3/8" header studs on all four corners. I know alot of people do engine/trannies together so whatever works best for your application. I have seen some cars that have to have the radiator support removed in order to install the engine/tranny from the top, where other vehicles have no problems. There are alot of variables and just as many opinions i suppose. As DJ said, many of us are set in our ways and we'll never change. Anyway, take care and thank you for your order. It shipped out this morning.
I do not recommend lifting the engine and tranny together with a manifold lift plate because depending on the combination, you can generate excessive angles (> 45 degrees). Even though the numbers say that you're still safe, I just do not personally like it because many times you can't level the engine/tranny combo because the CG is outside the adjustment range of the plate. If I were going to lift them together, I would use a spreader bar with four nylon straps and attach the brackets to 3/8" header studs on all four corners. I know alot of people do engine/trannies together so whatever works best for your application. I have seen some cars that have to have the radiator support removed in order to install the engine/tranny from the top, where other vehicles have no problems. There are alot of variables and just as many opinions i suppose. As DJ said, many of us are set in our ways and we'll never change. Anyway, take care and thank you for your order. It shipped out this morning.
Chris Cogan
Kaizen Motorsports
Thanks for that honest opinion Chris!!! Well said!!!
The shear strength of a grade 8 3/8 bolt in the manifold holes vs the pull out strength of a 5/16" bolt in aluminum makes this arguement a no brainer for me. Feel safe?
I am sorry but just because an engineer says that a bolt will handle the load doesn't make me believe it. We had a 2ton engine hoist at work that I was lifting less than 1ton on the 2 ton setting when the bolts broke and the lift went into my shoulder. Luckily no one was seriously injured (wish I could say that about the floor).
Sometimes you are better off to use some common sense than listen to a person that says it works on paper.
I am sorry but just because an engineer says that a bolt will handle the load doesn't make me believe it. We had a 2ton engine hoist at work that I was lifting less than 1ton on the 2 ton setting when the bolts broke and the lift went into my shoulder. Luckily no one was seriously injured (wish I could say that about the floor).
Sometimes you are better off to use some common sense than listen to a person that says it works on paper.
No one ever will get hurt if you follow procedure. OSHA has a lot of rules regarding lifting. Being familiar with them can keep you safe both on the job and in your home garage.
I am sorry but just because an engineer says that a bolt will handle the load doesn't make me believe it. We had a 2ton engine hoist at work that I was lifting less than 1ton on the 2 ton setting when the bolts broke and the lift went into my shoulder. Luckily no one was seriously injured (wish I could say that about the floor).
Sometimes you are better off to use some common sense than listen to a person that says it works on paper.
I've worked with good engineers all over the world and believe me they don't make this stuff up! Loads and stresses are calculated very carefully and safety margins are used to protect the dumb asses that overload things. You can't rely on the user to have common sense.