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Doing a fluid change this weekend. Can the mount for the front of the rear diff be replaced by just removing and replacing or will the rear end tilt forward or have any adverse affects?
I did a few on the hoist but it can be done easily on the ground with the car jacked up , you will need a wrench on the top to hold the bolt or nut depending how it was put on. should only take 1/2hr to do , just take your time and make sure you use jack stands the bolt is fairly tight! I find the upper mount is the one to go!
Some times it's a little tricky to get the bolt out cause of the driveshaft
, keep us updated! Ron
The top of the differential is bolted to the crossmember and the crossmember is bolted to the frame, so if your differential moves that would indicate loose bolts somewhere. You might have to pry the tongue down slightly to get the new mount in. If you have a lift available the job will be a lot easier but you can use ramps or jackstands.
I used a poly front mount but I think if I were to do it again I would use rubber instead.
great to hear guys! im "lift" challenged so jack stands and floor jack it is plus im fairly skinny too so geting under it should be okay. i also purchased the additive for the rear diff today. but the was a bit weary on the weight of the actual gear fluid itself. shouldnt it be 90W?
I did the cushion on my '67 quite a while back and remember something to the effect of having a hell of a job compressing the cushion. Maybe I needed a longer bolt or something but I eventially jacked the car up enough to compress the cushion to get the bolt on.
If I understand your question correctly, you mean the 2 piece 'cushion' set for the mount bolted on the 'chin' of the differential? Not too difficult to perform but each experience is always different.
Once you secure the car with jackstands, Ron Rail is right about unbolting the driveshaft to gain enough clearance. Mine had a large washer & nut on bottom so the bolt was removed from above the frame mount. There is (should be) a steel sleeve through the 2 cushions; may need a few squirts of your favorite penetrating oil to coax apart. The bolt has a large fender washer that compresses the top bushing against the frame mount. I didn't have any problems leveraging mine apart and protect your eyes from all the dirt that you loosen. I expect there will be plenty.
Hope that helps. I can offer my take if it is the main support the top rear of the differential is bolted to. That one is just a little more involved; LOL.
i had a hell of a time getting mine out. everything was rusted together, and that top mount was so full of dirt that i couldnt even find the bolt up there for awhile.
great to hear guys! im "lift" challenged so jack stands and floor jack it is plus im fairly skinny too so geting under it should be okay. i also purchased the additive for the rear diff today. but the was a bit weary on the weight of the actual gear fluid itself. shouldnt it be 90W?
It should take two of the 80W-90 and two of the differential additive. i'm doing all of my work on 4 jack stands with 2 floor jacks. makes for a lot of fun and many interesting stories of how you get a lot of injuries!
I can offer my take if it is the main support the top rear of the differential is bolted to. That one is just a little more involved; LOL.
Good Luck and let us know how it went.
.
yes i was talking about the front lip on the rear but....theres a top mount to the diff too? if its the block thing, sandwiched in metal attached to the center of the spring, then that is new.
i just changed out the fluid tonight. went very smooth i even found (under all the grunge) the original fill tag thingy that says to use only posi fluid!
I just did the universals on the driveshaft last weekend, Chiltons suggested using a block of wood as a wedge between the top of the differential carrier and the car floor to keep the carrier from twisting on its rubber mounts. I did not know what they were talking about, but I found out the hard way. If you are going for those front large rubber biscuts, stick a piece of 2x4 between the differential and the car floor, or better yet do not disconnect the universals. I am probably going to have to rebuild the differential in the not to distant future. So I will replace those biscuts with the rubber then.
Cheers 2U TonyK.
I just did the universals on the driveshaft last weekend, Chiltons suggested using a block of wood as a wedge between the top of the differential carrier and the car floor to keep the carrier from twisting on its rubber mounts. I did not know what they were talking about, but I found out the hard way. If you are going for those front large rubber biscuts, stick a piece of 2x4 between the differential and the car floor, or better yet do not disconnect the universals. I am probably going to have to rebuild the differential in the not to distant future. So I will replace those biscuts with the rubber then.
Cheers 2U TonyK.
thats what i was afraid of! my old days of working on S-10 trucks and such ive had several that the backyard "mechanic" couldnt get the diff lined up again cause when he removed the U bolts the rearend turned forward. Great advice! i never thought about that. I will def take all precautions
atleast if i ever sell the car i will have a list of work done and receipts. Several for parts and labor and one for a 2x4
Where do you get the rubber version? I've only found the poly one on the vendor's websites. My '69 is making a clunking noise, and after surfing through the archives, replacing that bushing might be the solution. Thanks!
Where do you get the rubber version? I've only found the poly one on the vendor's websites. My '69 is making a clunking noise, and after surfing through the archives, replacing that bushing might be the solution. Thanks!
I purchased my entire suspension group from Volunteer Vette Products. The only items they currently do not have in rubber are the sway bar bushings.