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Kevlar Pilot Bushing issue

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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 11:29 AM
  #1  
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Default Kevlar Pilot Bushing issue

Seems the center hole is too narrow
Clutch alignment tool was hard to install and it didn't slide after centering the clutch so I have to put everything apart again.
I'm afraid I won't be able to reinstall the trans as the diameter shaft is about the same as the tool...
Can I use my dremel to slightly enlarge that hole or should I get a new bronze pilot bushing ?

Here's the part I ordered : http://store.summitracing.com/partde...B&autoview=sku
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Le shark81
Seems the center hole is too narrow
Clutch alignment tool was hard to install and it didn't slide after centering the clutch so I have to put everything apart again.
I'm afraid I won't be able to reinstall the trans as the diameter shaft is about the same as the tool...
Can I use my dremel to slightly enlarge that hole or should I get a new bronze pilot bushing ?

Here's the part I ordered : http://store.summitracing.com/partde...B&autoview=sku
Never used a "Kevlar" version (always used Bronze), but regardless you CANNOT use a dremel to enlarge the hole - it must be done on a lathe.

It should NOT bind on the pilot shaft at all - should slide on easy and spin freely. Doesn't sound like the correct one for your shaft.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 12:08 PM
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Did the Kevlar bushing slip over the trans snout before installing it in the crank?
If so, then the outside diameter was too big and the bushing compressed when installed. It will probably be difficult to remove without damage to the bushing, but at the cost of bushings theese days, worth the try.
I just took some quick measurements of an old Muncie snout and a new GM bronze bushing:
Snout - .588" (14.94mm)
Bush - .592" (15.04mm) inside diameter
Bush - 1.094" (27.79mm) outside diameter

If you can get it out without damage perhaps a maching shop could run a 15mm reamer through it. If the outside diameter is too large, it could be turned smaller in a lathe.

Good luck,

Daffy
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 12:21 PM
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It can easily be removed without damage using the dowel/grease method.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by pws69
It can easily be removed without damage using the dowel/grease method.

But make sure you dont drive the bearing in too far...on some of the cranks inside is a lip and when you go in and over the lip the ID of the bushing becomes smaller.I always leave the bushing out about 1/4"

The depth of the cavity should be about .800 because thats usually how long the bushing is but I have been running into cranks that are only .650 deep.
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 04:00 AM
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Thanks guys
I made a newbie mistake by not test fitting on the trans snout before installing

Maybe I've driven it too far.
Those damn instructions said to install it flush and glue the outside with strong anti-seize sealant !
I'm wondering if the dowel/grease method will work on this one
Forgot to mention I'm using a Scat crank.

Last edited by Le shark81; Aug 15, 2008 at 05:21 AM.
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 05:52 AM
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Throw it in the trash and get a brass one. Use a magnet. There are cheap brass plated steel ones out there now.
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Le shark81
Thanks guys
I made a newbie mistake by not test fitting on the trans snout before installing
I would also recommend a test install of the transmission "without" the clutch.Once you have the trans. in place put the trans. in any gear and see if you can turn the output shaft.If it turns freely then the input shaft is not binding in the pilot bushing.It will take less than 30 min. and it will be one thing you dont have to worry about if you have other issues.
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Le shark81
Thanks guys
I made a newbie mistake by not test fitting on the trans snout before installing

Maybe I've driven it too far.
Those damn instructions said to install it flush and glue the outside with strong anti-seize sealant !
I'm wondering if the dowel/grease method will work on this one
Forgot to mention I'm using a Scat crank.
The dowel/grease WILL work if you do it correctly. When the dowel (wood/brass/steel - whatever) is a close (but not tight) fit and hit hard and sharp, there is an incredible amount of hydraulic pressure generated behind it.
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