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Mrvette you missed what I said. I’m not saying a two u-joint system can’t work on a specific car but that it won’t work for a product that must accommodate 100% of the geometry that is possible. You were able to get it to work on your car and maybe 20% of the Corvettes out there would work with a two u-joint system but the production variations make it unworkable for the other 80%. I would say that 90% of our installations aren’t very difficult but 10% can be a real bugger with the double upper u-joint and it has everything to do with the geometry of how the car came together and how it is now after 30+ years. We’ve never come across one that we can’t get to work properly but some can be a real challenge. Additionally, we are aiming for a bolt on system with no modification to the car. We don’t want to get in there and cut parts out of the car.
Mrvette you missed what I said. I’m not saying a two u-joint system can’t work on a specific car but that it won’t work for a product that must accommodate 100% of the geometry that is possible. You were able to get it to work on your car and maybe 20% of the Corvettes out there would work with a two u-joint system but the production variations make it unworkable for the other 80%. I would say that 90% of our installations aren’t very difficult but 10% can be a real bugger with the double upper u-joint and it has everything to do with the geometry of how the car came together and how it is now after 30+ years. We’ve never come across one that we can’t get to work properly but some can be a real challenge. Additionally, we are aiming for a bolt on system with no modification to the car. We don’t want to get in there and cut parts out of the car.
I totally disagree with your first two sentences, as if the existing box and column are hooked up in stock position and working more or less normally, my system would fit and work fine....it has to....now about headers and all that crap, I dunno, I did have to switch headers for clearance, but found a cheep set that works easily....
I DO however understand your reluctance in cutting the engine mount horn, never given ME a ounce of troubles, and IF it ever did on some other car it would be up to the owner to reinforce it, but not for your bolt on gear and warranty requirements....
From B school some 42 years ago, I remember some legal crap too, and i'm sure you all aware of it, from your lawyer.....
I totally disagree with your first two sentences, as if the existing box and column are hooked up in stock position and working more or less normally, my system would fit and work fine....it has to....
That is a reasonable argument but our experience proves otherwise. The thing is that a 1/2" front or back and a 1/4" either side on the location of the end of the steering column makes a huge difference if it will work or not. Those tolerances are within the range that these cars are built to and a stock steering box and rag joint will accommodate that and still work normally. We have experimented with a 2 joint system and it just won't work smoothly in all cars.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I would agree with that. I used VB&P system and had a hard time getting to work with 3 joints. BTW, I talked to VB&P yesterday - 2 things: they have scrapped development of the slip joint system and Pattie is gone.
What are the pros and cons of the different racks used in the two systems?
I wonder if VBP would send one of their slip joint shafts so I could try it. My car is very straight and would have a decent chance of working with the two joint system.
The actual R&P units are the same since VBP directly copied our design that they were selling at the time.
The two joint system functioning isn't a matter of the car being straight. It is more a matter of the loose tolerances the cars were built to. It isn't unusual for things to be a 1/2" difference between cars that have no damage history and are completely original.
The actual R&P units are the same since VBP directly copied our design that they were selling at the time.
The two joint system functioning isn't a matter of the car being straight. It is more a matter of the loose tolerances the cars were built to. It isn't unusual for things to be a 1/2" difference between cars that have no damage history and are completely original.
Well, as we all know, the steering column has quite a bit of slop in the firewall mounting, you loosen it up and maybe the to flange bolts under the dash, and you can flip that pubby around pretty good, in fact, I backed my column flange off the firewall about 3/4 inch with a wood block spacer so as the wheel was that much closer to me, had to fiddle with the flange mounts, and re-extend the shaft it's interesting how they designed these things with so much possible 'adjustments' at the assy line to account for some part being off in the stamping, for instance....
Other than plugging in a Global West suspension setup with Caddy spindles and a Camaro box in a '70 A body hotrod years ago, this is the most I have ever played with any car, but I enjoy toy time.....
The actual R&P units are the same since VBP directly copied our design that they were selling at the time.
The two joint system functioning isn't a matter of the car being straight. It is more a matter of the loose tolerances the cars were built to. It isn't unusual for things to be a 1/2" difference between cars that have no damage history and are completely original.
I see. I did not notice that the racks were the same.
Would you guys be willing to work with me to get 2 universal setup working? If not, could you point me in the direction of where to get the parts?
I see. I did not notice that the racks were the same.
Would you guys be willing to work with me to get 2 universal setup working? If not, could you point me in the direction of where to get the parts?
Yes sir, we could do that. You may have to do a little trimming of the intermediate shaft length since we don't have a standard length figured out already for that setup.
Yes sir, we could do that. You may have to do a little trimming of the intermediate shaft length since we don't have a standard length figured out already for that setup.
I will keep that in mind. I'm planning on doing this in the winter so I'll do details then. Trimming that shaft will be no problem at all. I also won't need the hoses because my pump is -06 and I use braided lines.
Does the rack mount any further to the rear of the car than the stock steering ram? The oil pan on my LS1 touches the ram at full lock so I need all that room.
From what you have said that interference shouldn't be a problem. Our rack does not sit further back than the assist ram. Typically our system resolves issues like this and I know our kit clears LS1 installations (with an F-body oil pan, I believe).
Some time after I installed it I had Guldstrand do some suspension work and his comment on the Steeroids system was that "someone most have known what they were doing".
From what you have said that interference shouldn't be a problem. Our rack does not sit further back than the assist ram. Typically our system resolves issues like this and I know our kit clears LS1 installations (with an F-body oil pan, I believe).
I thought that would be the case. I'm using a truck pan that I cut down and extended forward but it ended up looking just like the Fbody pan so I'm sure it will be fine. I'm looking forward to installing this kit and I'll definitely get in touch with you this winter. I'm so sick of my sloppy control valve that I could puke.
There's nothing wrong with the stock ram, the problem is the control valve. Check out some high end sprint car rack and pinions, low and behold they use an external assist cylinder. Easier to work on/replace/service!
Pretty much maxed out my budget! I looked at the steeroids kit looks like there is no oil pan clearance issue there but I cant take another $1,200 hit!