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really need help with Holley

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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 06:30 PM
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Default really need help with Holley

I installed my new stroker.. got it up an running.. about a month ago.. today I started it and it was flooding on the secondaries.. now I had this problem prior to the new motor. the carb has less than 2000 miles
it's a Holley 700 dp.. I changed float and the needle.. prior to starting this motor.... what can be causing this???? has anyone every experienced this??? I dont want to screw up the cylinder walls with all this raw fuel, on a new motor...
by the way, I did not replace the acclerater pump, but did check the adjustment..
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 06:45 PM
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Did you make sure the float level was correct by looking at the site hole?
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 08:12 PM
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Fuel pressure?
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 09:48 PM
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Adjust the rear float level,
make sure your rear power valve is not blown.
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Old Aug 20, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SH-60B
Fuel pressure?

Definitely check fuel pressure. My '73 has a 650 DP. Previous owner had installed a high volume fuel pump trying to fix a fuel starvation problem that actually turned out to be an ignition problem. The fuel pressure was 10 - 12 lbs at idle. Replaced the fuel pump with a stock unit and then had to replace both the primary and secondary floats as they just would not maintain the proper level. Once I did that everything has been fine. I'm guessing the excessive fuel pressure eventually wore out the spring mechanism on the floats.

DC
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 10:35 AM
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yea, I replaced powervalve, set float height (triple checked) I have a fuel line with pressure gauge and autometer gauge in pod. and it is set at 6-1/2 ..replaced my presuure regulater. I dont know what else to do other than ditch it.. it has a proform main body.
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 11:27 AM
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well I am calling it quits... if someone wants it let me know, give me any reasonable price..

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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 12:55 PM
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I had a similar problem. Turns out my needle from the rear float was cracked. It was just dumping tons of gas in there. I didn't realize until I tried to start it with the air cleaner off. You should have seen the stream of gas shoot straight up in the air. Wow!
-CR
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 01:05 PM
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Put a decent fuel filter in line. It sounds like you are getting very small bits of junk stuck on the seat and it can not close. I had this happen several times with one of those cute little glass filters...

Last edited by Mark Snyder; Aug 21, 2008 at 01:10 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 02:58 PM
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I have 2 filters. I cleaned took the carb apart 3 times and cleaned it..
I am going to change my oil, remove the plugs and crank her over incase theres A PUDDLE IN THE CYLINDERS.. I am looking at the proform or the mighty demon... the price of a new carb out weights what this motor cost..I just dont want to have cylinder wash from fuel.. this is what happend to my last motor..
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 03:40 PM
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So the carb was a 700 then you changed to a proform body what is it now a 750 ? did you keep the 700 holley body. I'm curious did you have the problem before with the 700 holley main body then bought the proform body reused the metering blocks on the proform body ?

Last edited by Little Mouse; Aug 21, 2008 at 04:02 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 04:21 PM
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I had this problem on a motorcylce. The motor would rev up uncontrollably.

The float needle got stuck down. Took it out, scotch brite, brake cleaner. Voila.
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Little Mouse
So the carb was a 700 then you changed to a proform body what is it now a 750 ? did you keep the 700 holley body. I'm curious did you have the problem before with the 700 holley main body then bought the proform body reused the metering blocks on the proform body ?
I sold the main body... didn't have no problems with the proform. acually ran better with the new main body.. thats al that was changed.
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by enkeivette
I had this problem on a motorcylce. The motor would rev up uncontrollably.

The float needle got stuck down. Took it out, scotch brite, brake cleaner. Voila.
yea, me too
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 04:47 PM
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Ok, let me clarify what you have done. Have you checked the float to see if it is ok? Does it float in a cup of gas or sink to the bottom? What is your method for setting the float level? Are you certain that you have the correct main body to metering plate gaskets?
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by burners
Ok, let me clarify what you have done. Have you checked the float to see if it is ok? Does it float in a cup of gas or sink to the bottom? What is your method for setting the float level? Are you certain that you have the correct main body to metering plate gaskets?
I installed a new float, and new needle.. I flipped the bowl upside down to see if the new floats sits level.. then ran electric pump looked at the site plug, everything ok, ran motor everything still ok.... these are new holey haskets I got when I bought the new main body.. I never had any issues.. the car ran better with this main body.. it just suddenly happened.. I got my motor rebuilt. installed the new carb parts.. not carb gaskets. and it still does it.. not all the time just most of the time..lol.. even if there was a possible cure for this.. I'm just not going to risk it anymore... if the motor wasn't new, I would tinker with it. I'll throw it on craigslist... at this time I am just looking for something else.
it's an opportunity to get something better..
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Old Aug 21, 2008 | 06:16 PM
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Sounds like it should be a problem with the needle not cutting off the
fuel. Wonder what happens if there were an aluminum casting problem in the metering block.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Aug 21, 2008 at 06:38 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2008 | 12:14 AM
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Almost has to be the float setting. Here's a quick guide:

Use a 5/8-inch wrench and a large flat-bladed screwdriver. To adjust the level, remove the sight plug from the passenger side of the float bowl, or just look through the clear sight plug if your carb is so equipped. Loosen the lock screw on the top of the adjuster and turn thead adjusting nut clockwise with the wrench to lower the float level or counter-clockwise to raise the level. The proper float level at idle is when the fuel just touches the bottom of the sight-plug hole.
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