Big block cam advice

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Jan 3, 2002 | 11:09 AM

69ttop502

Thread Starter

Le Mans Master

Joined: Mar 2001

Posts: 6,240

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From: Watkinsville, GA and Glen Cove, NY

Big block cam advice

Well I had just about decided to go with a comp cams solid flat tappet with .579 and .605 lift and 240 and 250 duration at .050, but now some buddies are talking me into a roller. I posted before about this and Forgive me if I am wrong but I think it was Ganey said he liked his solid flat tappet better than his Lingenfelter recommended roller. I love tinkering so adjusting valves is not a problem with me. I just remember hearing bad things about solid rollers on the street with oiling problems and other things. To Gdaina and you others running solid rollers on the street what are your opinions. I am looking for around 550-600 horsepower so I shouldn't need that big of a cam with my 502 to hit this level. Should I consider a hydraulic roller as well, and are they better in terms of longevity? Do you need a stud girdle. Opinions please as well as any other information you can give me.

Jan 3, 2002 | 11:24 AM

63Banshee

Melting Slicks

Joined: Mar 2000

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From: WANTED: '68 rear valance with b/u light assemblies IM, e-mail, or PM me here. Thanks!

Re: Big block cam advice (69ttop502)

I don’t know how good the heads and intakes are on 502’s, but that cam should yield 550 HP with no sweat. As far as cam options are concerned, roller cam profiles are much more aggressive and allow for more combustible intake and, obviously, have lower friction. Both these characteristics yield higher HP potential, but it sounds like it may be overkill for what you are looking for.

Jan 3, 2002 | 01:35 PM

norvalwilhelm

Race Director

Joined: Nov 2000

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From: Waterloo ontario Canada

Re: Big block cam advice (69ttop502)

I'm the guy who said he didn't like his Lengenfelter roller from Comp cam as well as his Crane flat tappet solid. I spent about $1500 converting to a roller cam and the motor was not as strong as with the Crane flat tappet. The Crame cam F 256/3634-2S-8 was Intake .618 with 256@ .050 and Exhaust .638 with 264 @ .050. This cam really pulled in mid range and top end. The idle vacuum was low. The Comp roller was .623 lift and 236 and 244@ .050. This cam never cam on strong in the mid range and fell flat on top end. But I did spend $1500 on it. For Dollar value a flat tappet cam is hard to beat. I also have read about short life of roller cams on the street. Hope this isn't true.
106 110 114
Low idle vac improves idle
More mid range Costs mid range and top end

Jan 3, 2002 | 01:38 PM

norvalwilhelm

Race Director

Joined: Nov 2000

Posts: 11,872

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From: Waterloo ontario Canada

Re: Big block cam advice (norvalwilhelm)

Doesn't come out the way I printed it
106 lobe seperation Low idle vacuum but more mid range
114 lobe seperation Improves idle but cost mid range and top end
You can really feel a difference in mid range if you try different lobe seperation angles

Jan 4, 2002 | 01:39 PM

69ttop502

Thread Starter

Le Mans Master

Joined: Mar 2001

Posts: 6,240

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From: Watkinsville, GA and Glen Cove, NY

Re: Big block cam advice (norvalwilhelm)

Norval thanks for the information. I just got off the phone with Comp Cams and they said that the problem with the solid rollers on the street is low speed oiling but he said they have a special roller lifter called endurex with a groove in it and said with this lifter it would work on the street. Are you or anyone else running this lifter. This may sound stupid but the thing I fear with the flat tappet cam is if I screw up the break in and can't get the motor started and flatten a lobe or something. 63 Banshee the heads on my motor are the rectangular port iron heads with a 325cc intake port and after milling will run 9.5 to 1 compression. These should have the flow I will ever need but man are they heavy. Well I still haven't decided but it would probably be simpler to go with the flat tappet. Anyone have any problems with solid rollers on a street car. Thanks. Oh by the way Norval the roller cam they recommended for me is an extreme energy 248 I 254 E at .050 and lift of .653 and .660 on a 110 Lsa. Sounds like a little overkill for my goal of 550 to 600 horses. What sort of power are you making and are you running a vacuum canister.

Jan 4, 2002 | 10:28 PM

shawn_cake

Racer

Joined: Aug 2001

Posts: 356

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From: Glacier County mt

Re: Big block cam advice (69ttop502)

I ran a solid roller in my stroked zz502 (532 cid)for two years.
Finally went to a hydraulic roller because I am lazy - didn't like setting valve lash in a big block c3. Otherwise I had no noticeable trouble from the solid roller.

Jan 5, 2002 | 12:08 AM

Flareside

Safety Car

Joined: Dec 1999

Posts: 4,148

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From: Roxbury NJ

Re: Big block cam advice (69ttop502)

Bill, here's some info:
http://www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum4/HTML/007316.html http://www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum4/HTML/007395.html

Jan 5, 2002 | 10:53 AM

69ttop502

Thread Starter

Le Mans Master

Joined: Mar 2001

Posts: 6,240

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From: Watkinsville, GA and Glen Cove, NY

Re: Big block cam advice (Flareside)

Hey Joe thanks that is some great stuff. I am going to have to check out that site more often. Congrats on the Merlin II. What are you thinking of doing for a cam and heads on that animal. Sorry, but still haven't pulled that power steering off yet, we are closing on a house in a couple of weeks and I figured I would wait until then cause its a pain working on the car in a storage unit where it is now. So when I get it off I will let you know if you are still interested.