The T5 will definitely help with the 3.08 gear.
For a cam, take a look at this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
or maybe this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
They are a little on the smallish side for a 454, but I think they would be large enough while still making good low end.
Peak HP would probably come around 5500 rpm.
Also, while your stock rods are OK, I would spend some money for good bolts.

 

Thank you very much for the tips. they will all be considered for this build.
The one thing I failed to mention in my earlier posts is that as far as the cam is concerned,I would like something with a nice lope to it,as long as I don't sacrifice any of the fun I hope to have from the gate.

 

Fellas,in your opinion,do you think this would work? Keeping in mind,the goals I want to reach with this motor.http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku

 

It will probably get you the hp you want, but is getting a little large for the kind of low end you are looking for.

 

Hey Sly,

I am going to do about the same thing with my old LS-5. I really like the Lunati Voodoo line.

carbster

 

I agree with Driveshaft, the likelyhood is that this will be too much cam for this combination as the amount of duration here is a heavy bias toward high rpm.

That does not account for any deficiency will have from what may be stock valve springs that will not be able to follow such a big cam and like to "float" at higher rpm .

To have any kind of lope at idle, and still be streetable, you will need to choose a cam with a LOBE SEPERATION ANGLE of 110 degrees or less. COMP's "Extreme Energy" series is one example.

You mentioned previously that you would like to go Q-jet, but that is a spread bore carb and the RPM manifold is a square bore intake, so that would be incompatible. You will also need to verify total height for any combination for hood clearance.

You really need to be having the person who is going to assemble this engine for you involved because we could talk for a month here and be wrong, just because we don't know all the details about what you have to begin with.

Simple things like ...

"Is there any taper in the existing Cyl. bores that will require boring?" or .....

"What are the actual clearances on the old crank and do we need to turn the crank for new bearings due to existing wear?" .....

.... are basic diagnostic elements that could change costs, options and your whole approach to this project before your final parts list is developed.

For example a BRAND NEW STEEL Scat crank can be bought for within 50 bucks of what it costs to turm your tired old iron crank, so common sense says you would never do that....

A review of the thread does not tell us whether the block is completely dissassembled with all relavent measurment checks completed, so, at this stage we do not have enough info to do anything other than guess on those basic issues.

 

Wondering how many guys here have accomplished 500hp on a stock 454? What are the combo's used? Would give a nice baseline to compare your selection of parts to.

 

Remember what your ultimate goal is for the car, street driver ?
Remember this lights and wipers work off of vacuum, on these cars.
it was important to be able to pull good vacuum, to avoid issues.
So I chose a moderate Cam, not Radical.
I bumped up the compression, but did not go crazy with the cam.
Good Luck... 69VETT

 

I agree...This would be a great help!

The rotating assembly has yet to be separated from the block.
At this point my machinist Is determine if these heads are structurally sound. If they are,he will then check the spring rates,valves and valve seats for wear. If all is good there,then he will wait till I pick a cam and determine if the springs will be adequate.

I was not aware that the rpm air gap intakes were only available in the square bore pattern. I guess I will be looking ay Holley and BG carbs in what I would imagine would be the 850cfm range.
I do have a dual quad intake with twin edelbrock carbs. The intake is a Edelbrock C-66 and the carbs are numbered 1404. Would this be overkill??? Or maybe just not compatible for what I want this eng to be.
Thank you for your input!
Mark

 

you need to get the bottom end apart.

Right away, Honest to goodness and with all due respect, I think most engine builders would agree, heads are nothing without a good foundation.

I'd bet ya a buck that if you get yer bottom end apart, and it needs just'about anything, you'd be able to get an entry level Scat Race Balanced Rotating Assembly for less than the cost of the machining and little parts necessary to salvage what you can from your old stuff, and then you've still got old stuff in your motor.

A Holley 3310-4 might support close to 500 hp in top notch tune, a 3310-1 is better.

Please take another look at post #14 for more on that.

You do not need an 850 to turn a 468 at 500 hp., it will work for sure, but many would argue that the 3310 series, or modern equivallent, with vac secondaries will be the most fuel efficient.

As far as dual quad carbs, if you are a Sultan in an Oil Rch State, go ahead, just kidding of course, but duals add complexity that you will pay extra to support in both raw fuel and ongoing maintainance.

Personally, as a hobbiest, It seems wise to be not using up too much more fuel than we need to, so I think dual quads should go on museum cars for a while until we sort out a few global issues, but that's just me.

 

The reason I am focusing on the heads at this time is that I want to know if I will be able to re-use them and save myself the cost of new ones.
I am only trying to establish a budget for this build at this time.
The build itself probably will happen this winter,if the cost is not too high.
If I need to spend more than say 2,000.00 dollars,the build will be put off till next year.
I agree with you on the dual quad set-up,but it doesn't hurt to ask...the more input the better.
Mark

 

Yo Mark ... considering all you have been able to tell us about this motor, I think it will be difficult to stay on budget ....

FROM ABOVE: "It also had multiple wiped lobes"

This means there was metal particulate, chunks of fine ground up metal, circulating in this engines oil system while it was running.

This is the key to why you should be doing the bottom end first ....

One single lobe chewed in ten minutes could and probably did wipe out your crank bearings.

Odds are that this potential and likely internal damage to your crank alone is probably going to consume your whole budget by the time you fix it.

I could be wrong, but if I'm not, you will end up with heads and a fair bit of the budget gone, but you won't be able to use them on this block.

I guess it would just be my vote that you should start with the block assesment first to generate a more accurate feasiblity for the project.

Is the oil pan still on the motor ???? If so, you could pull that and examine the dregs to see it there are any little shiny fleck's of metal. A good mechanics magnet will help. This is a no/low buck diagnostic aid, but even then, you will not have 100% conclusive data until the bottom end is apart.

It would be neat to take a survey of all the Big Block Engine Builders on this forum to see what they would do first, given all these details.

 

Skruffy is giving you good advice. I rebuilt my 454 last winter because I had wiped some lobes on the cam. The FIRST thing we did was tear apart the bottom end and found that ALL the crank bearings had wear marks from the tiny pieces from the lobes. Some were worse than others but ALL had some marks in them.

I'm NOT an engine builder but had mine done by professionals. (I just tore it apart (oh what fun I had) they put it back together $$$) Got the block Hot Tanked and re-honed. Ground the crank and got it crossed drilled. Just for this was $450.00 Y$MV.

shmoky

 

Edelbrock makes a spread bore Performer RPM. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku

 

Sorry about that Driveshaft, My reference to the RPM air Gap #75614, was from the Edelbrock website:

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...r_gap-bb.shtml

In this page they state "For Square Bore Carbs Only" ....

... So there ya' go, there is more than one way to "skin the cat" ...

I'm still not sure there's a Q-jet that will support 500 hp, but if there was, it might even offer some economy advantages at cruise rpm.

The Q-jet's were capable of better fuel economy than some 2 barrels as a result of the smaller primaries that covered up to about 3200rpm, as I recall.

What makes me think that the Q-jet's were a bit shy on the hp numbers is that GM, as standard equipment, put a 3310 series Holley on the LS-6 and LS-5 to get the flow they needed.

I could be wrong there too, so if anyone can verify, please do.

 

I always intended to address the bearing issue knowing that there was a good chance that they would be wiped out due to the metal particles from the cam. I will be pulling the crank today to examine the journals for excessive scoring.
Am I correct that the consensus here is that if the crank needs polishing,I should just buy a forged crank? Does this make sense cash wise?
I can say that when I pulled the cam,I found no damage to the cam surfaces that contact the cam bearings. I will post later on the condition of the crank and maybe send a pic if I can get a good pic of the scoring I expect to find.
In the mean time I have found some pistons.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...w=32&N=700+115http://store.summitracing.com/partde...F&autoview=sku
Or these...http://store.summitracing.com/partde...F&autoview=sku
Never mind...seems I picked the same piston twice! Must be a good choice!!!
Will these fit the bill and get me to 10:1 compression?
Mark

 

You do not need a forged crank.

A cast STEEL crank can be bought on-line for 230 bucks and will easily support 700 HP.

It will cost 180 +/- to turn your old one, so don't do that.

Look at Scat for a BUNDLE on pistons, rods and crank that is less money than "A La Carte" form anywhere else, and it's balanced .... !!!

 

I am going to summit right now. Thanks

 

Which of these two assemblies would you suggest,if any?http://store.summitracing.com/compar...5&autoview=sku

Thanks for your help Skruffy.
Mark

 

Link doesn't work. You might have to post the 2 different items rather than the comparison page.