Could Use Some Suspension Help - BADLY
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Could Use Some Suspension Help - BADLY
Hey all...
My 73 has always had this issue with the rear suspension... The wheels have a lot of camber in them and I tear up the inside edge of tires something fierce.
I've read some posts about rotor run out... but I still don't really know what that is, if I have a problem with it, or how to fix it. And I don't know if this is part of my problem.
I'm very mechanical, so if someone explains something to me, I can work it out... and pictures are REALLY helpful.
What I'm thinking is that the rear leaf spring is the original and that it's just dead and not supporting the car enough causing the awful camber in the rear wheels.... but...
I'm wondering if any of you have had similar symptoms and if you might think it's something else causing this?
The suspension all around is original, so I'm sure all the bushings are worn as well... so I know I need to rebuild the suspension, but I want to know if there is one thing I can do right now to fix this rear camber problem so I can at least drive the car...
Unfortunately, I was in a car accident and someone totaled my car for me, so I have to use the Vette sometimes to drive to work... So if anyone has any advice to keep me on the road for the time being until I can fully tear into the suspension, that would be fantastic.
Thanks!
Roc
My 73 has always had this issue with the rear suspension... The wheels have a lot of camber in them and I tear up the inside edge of tires something fierce.
I've read some posts about rotor run out... but I still don't really know what that is, if I have a problem with it, or how to fix it. And I don't know if this is part of my problem.
I'm very mechanical, so if someone explains something to me, I can work it out... and pictures are REALLY helpful.
What I'm thinking is that the rear leaf spring is the original and that it's just dead and not supporting the car enough causing the awful camber in the rear wheels.... but...
I'm wondering if any of you have had similar symptoms and if you might think it's something else causing this?
The suspension all around is original, so I'm sure all the bushings are worn as well... so I know I need to rebuild the suspension, but I want to know if there is one thing I can do right now to fix this rear camber problem so I can at least drive the car...
Unfortunately, I was in a car accident and someone totaled my car for me, so I have to use the Vette sometimes to drive to work... So if anyone has any advice to keep me on the road for the time being until I can fully tear into the suspension, that would be fantastic.
Thanks!
Roc
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 1
From: East China MI
The camber is a simple adjustment in the strut rods.
They are the bottom rods in the picture. Note the inside connection of the rods. (Yours may look different but the are essentially the same) These will have an offset collor inside that will move the bottom of the wheels in or out when rotated. If you have a good level you can get it very close. If you have a digital level you can nail it. For the street dead vertical (0 camber) is good.
I find the greatest accuracy is with the car on jacks, the wheels off with a bolt holding the rotors (giving the level a flat surface), and the suspension jacked to ride height. You can unbolt the springs to make it easier.
If you have worn parts, it will move around but at least you can get it close.
The half shaft U-joints and end play in the rear gear will have a major effect on holding the alignment as they make up the upper part of the suspension. I would look at them before the spring.
They are the bottom rods in the picture. Note the inside connection of the rods. (Yours may look different but the are essentially the same) These will have an offset collor inside that will move the bottom of the wheels in or out when rotated. If you have a good level you can get it very close. If you have a digital level you can nail it. For the street dead vertical (0 camber) is good.
I find the greatest accuracy is with the car on jacks, the wheels off with a bolt holding the rotors (giving the level a flat surface), and the suspension jacked to ride height. You can unbolt the springs to make it easier.
If you have worn parts, it will move around but at least you can get it close.
The half shaft U-joints and end play in the rear gear will have a major effect on holding the alignment as they make up the upper part of the suspension. I would look at them before the spring.
Last edited by jpatrick636; Aug 26, 2008 at 06:16 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 10
From: NorCal
Be aware that the suspension shown is not stock. However, it is almost certainly caused by worn bushings in the lower strut rods at the bottom on each side. The rubber bushings in each end will be junk. If not, someone as adjusted the eccentrics (visible on the inside end) to give it a ton of camber. Many folks here use the Van Steel or VB&P adjustable strut rods with good results, but they are pricey compared to stock ones. To answer your question, it's easy to adjust the strut rod a bit to reduce the camber, but it's a bit 'Bubba'. It'll get you by though...
As for rotor runout, it refers to the "flatness" of the brake rotor. If you've ever driven a car with a shuddering or pulsing pedal, that's what they're talking about. It has no effect on rear end alignment.
Very different six-link, Pattrick, I like it. Is it yours, our did you buy it that way? Looks well made.
Hans
As for rotor runout, it refers to the "flatness" of the brake rotor. If you've ever driven a car with a shuddering or pulsing pedal, that's what they're talking about. It has no effect on rear end alignment.
Very different six-link, Pattrick, I like it. Is it yours, our did you buy it that way? Looks well made.
Hans
Last edited by Wrencher; Aug 26, 2008 at 06:35 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 286
Likes: 1
From: Mesa az
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the differential side yokes also affect the camber. If their "tips" are worn the wheels will tilt inward. (They will also be loose, making camber adustment difficult to impossible.) The struts should be able to adjust for this, but if it's excessive I'm not sure.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the differential side yokes also affect the camber. If their "tips" are worn the wheels will tilt inward. (They will also be loose, making camber adustment difficult to impossible.) The struts should be able to adjust for this, but if it's excessive I'm not sure.
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 575
Likes: 0
From: Nice Lake Ontario
Sometimes it's nothing more than a saging rear spring, I have corrected a slight tip in on my 74 when it was a low miler by shiming the spring bolt a little. I would try that & see if it helps till you replace some suspension pieces.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
QUOTE=sxr6;1566864797]Sometimes it's nothing more than a saging rear spring, I have corrected a slight tip in on my 74 when it was a low miler by shiming the spring bolt a little. I would try that & see if it helps till you replace some suspension pieces.[/QUOTE]
Also make sure you have no broke leafs. I broke mine years ago driving like an *** and I was lucky the broken end hit the exhaust. That was just enough leverage to keep that side from totally bottoming!
Also make sure you have no broke leafs. I broke mine years ago driving like an *** and I was lucky the broken end hit the exhaust. That was just enough leverage to keep that side from totally bottoming!
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton NJ
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the differential side yokes also affect the camber. If their "tips" are worn the wheels will tilt inward. (They will also be loose, making camber adustment difficult to impossible.) The struts should be able to adjust for this, but if it's excessive I'm not sure.
The strut rods can be adjusted using the eccentric cam that connects them to the support below the carrier...if yokes are your prob once the max point is hit you will need to replace the differential side yokes. My yoke had worn to the point where it was hitting the carrier case
Bubba was kind enough to bend my strut rods to take up the slack (DO NOT DO THIS...just an example of horrific mechanic in action).
Please post some pix of your set-up so we can see what's going on, especially the shot of the complete suspension from the rear.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 286
Likes: 1
From: Mesa az
Once the yokes wear more than about 0.125 the C clip inside the diff will fall off the end of the yoke. Then the yoke can be pulled out of the diff. The clip is also free to fall into the diff "works". I'd suggest checking the yoke end play and proceed accordingly.
And as was mentioned above, Chevy hardened the ends of the yokes, but once that harderned area wears off the wear rate accelerates quickly.
And as was mentioned above, Chevy hardened the ends of the yokes, but once that harderned area wears off the wear rate accelerates quickly.