Cadence Amp protect mode
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24
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From: Merrick New York
Cadence Amp protect mode
First let me say thank you to Durango Boy for all is post's on Stereo System upgrades. I went with his advice in many of the post's and installed 6.5" Polk components in the kick panels, 10" MB quart single sub and the Cadence txa 6004 amp and used my existing Kenwood Excelon KDC 590 heat unit. This set up sounds great. Only problem is the amp goes into protect mode after abut 1/2 hour of moderate volumes. I thought this was because I keep the rear pull shade closed and there was no air flow. But it also happened when I kept rear uncovered and windows open or AC on. Any advice would be great. p.s. the amp was bought directly from Cadence website, I know there were issues with amps bought from ebay.
Thanks
Ben's
Thanks
Ben's
Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 517
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From: Peoria IL
Do you have one of those noncontacing temperature measurement thingys? Checking the surface temperature of the heat sink would be a good first start.
If not, can you reach it to touch it with your hand? If it's warm enough to be uncomfortable to the touch, it might be getting warmer than it should be. If it's cool, you should probably call the manufacturer.
If not, can you reach it to touch it with your hand? If it's warm enough to be uncomfortable to the touch, it might be getting warmer than it should be. If it's cool, you should probably call the manufacturer.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Edit - Clarification please, which model sub do you have? The TXA-6004 puts out 600 watts RMS at 4 OHM when 3 and 4 are bridged. That's easily twice what that sub handles on a scale of averages. Usually when I suggest the TXA-6004 I also suggest a sub that's suited for it's power output.
Great suggestions.
Check the wiring configuration from the sub to the amp. The sub is a dual 2 OHM voice coil sub. This means to get your target 4 OHM load on the amp you need to wire the two coils in series. If you only have one coil wired, or you have them wired in parallel you'll be showing the amp either a 2 OHM load or a 1 OHM load, and that'll put an amp into protect FAST.
Check that out, and also check carefully for any crossed wire strands that might be touching another terminal.
Those Cadence amps are known to run very cool, I have a TXA-6004 in the back of my black Vette, working very hard on an 800 watt sub, and it's almost always air temp to the touch. If that heat sink is hot then it's probably either an internal problem or something is not wired correctly.
Great suggestions.
Check the wiring configuration from the sub to the amp. The sub is a dual 2 OHM voice coil sub. This means to get your target 4 OHM load on the amp you need to wire the two coils in series. If you only have one coil wired, or you have them wired in parallel you'll be showing the amp either a 2 OHM load or a 1 OHM load, and that'll put an amp into protect FAST.Check that out, and also check carefully for any crossed wire strands that might be touching another terminal.
Those Cadence amps are known to run very cool, I have a TXA-6004 in the back of my black Vette, working very hard on an 800 watt sub, and it's almost always air temp to the touch. If that heat sink is hot then it's probably either an internal problem or something is not wired correctly.
Last edited by Durango_Boy; Aug 28, 2008 at 08:29 AM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Merrick New York
Thanks for the suggestions - The heat sink on the amp is hot whenever this happens. If i turn off the head unit and turn it back on it will stay on for about 5 minutes before it goes into protect mode again.
I checked the wiring and everything seems to be wired correctly (used diagrams in the head unit & amp manuals as reference). I used the spade connectors and wrapped it with heat shrink so that there wouldn't be any loose strands. The sub is MB Quart RWE 252 which i think is rated at 600 watts. I have the sub wired in a serial connection which should provide 4ohm load and bridged channels 3&4 on the amp to power it. Not sure if this makes a difference but I have the gain on the amp turned up about 60-70%. I decided to go with the txa6004 because the price difference was minimal and i figured it wouldn't hurt to have the extra power.
I checked the wiring and everything seems to be wired correctly (used diagrams in the head unit & amp manuals as reference). I used the spade connectors and wrapped it with heat shrink so that there wouldn't be any loose strands. The sub is MB Quart RWE 252 which i think is rated at 600 watts. I have the sub wired in a serial connection which should provide 4ohm load and bridged channels 3&4 on the amp to power it. Not sure if this makes a difference but I have the gain on the amp turned up about 60-70%. I decided to go with the txa6004 because the price difference was minimal and i figured it wouldn't hurt to have the extra power.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Thanks for the suggestions - The heat sink on the amp is hot whenever this happens. If i turn off the head unit and turn it back on it will stay on for about 5 minutes before it goes into protect mode again.
I checked the wiring and everything seems to be wired correctly (used diagrams in the head unit & amp manuals as reference). I used the spade connectors and wrapped it with heat shrink so that there wouldn't be any loose strands. The sub is MB Quart RWE 252 which i think is rated at 600 watts. I have the sub wired in a serial connection which should provide 4ohm load and bridged channels 3&4 on the amp to power it. Not sure if this makes a difference but I have the gain on the amp turned up about 60-70%. I decided to go with the txa6004 because the price difference was minimal and i figured it wouldn't hurt to have the extra power.
I checked the wiring and everything seems to be wired correctly (used diagrams in the head unit & amp manuals as reference). I used the spade connectors and wrapped it with heat shrink so that there wouldn't be any loose strands. The sub is MB Quart RWE 252 which i think is rated at 600 watts. I have the sub wired in a serial connection which should provide 4ohm load and bridged channels 3&4 on the amp to power it. Not sure if this makes a difference but I have the gain on the amp turned up about 60-70%. I decided to go with the txa6004 because the price difference was minimal and i figured it wouldn't hurt to have the extra power.
Okay if you have checked all the stuff above it's time for an email to Jason at Cadence. Explain to him everything outlined in this thread. He will need detailed symptoms and everything you have done and checked. Here is his email address. Jason is a good guy and I have worked with him a lot.
jason@cadencesound.com
He should be able to suggest something, if not, he might have you send the amp to him for a checkup or repair. It sucks, I know, but it happens. I have had to have many new amps repaired through my life...it happens with the best and worst companies.
