Clevis pin removal
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 1
From: Liberty Missouri
Clevis pin removal
Ok I’m going to ask I give up. I am trying to remove the clevis on a manual break 69 car. I am trying to install a hydroboost system. Anyway the problem I am having is the clevis pin. When I try to push it out it hits the side of the pedal assembly and will not come all the way out. Any pearls of wisdom out there to solve this problem? Do I need to remove the entire pedal assembly? If so does some one have a picture of it removed so I can tell where it is attached. My AIM does not show how to remove it clearly. I know there are 4 bolts in the fire wall and 4 in the wiper tray but that is all I can see.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,713
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
You shouldn't have to remove the pedal assembly. I found a couple of things that made this a little easier. First, move the pedal back and forth while pressing on the pin. I also used a screwdriver on the head of the clevis pin which, while awkward to keep in place, worked better than pushing it through for me. Finally, loosening the bolts to the MC allowed even more movement. This should help you get it out.
Now the bad news. I had MUCH more trouble getting the pin back in afterwards.
We just need to keep telling ourselves that it will be worth it in the long run.
You do have the retaining clip off right?
Now the bad news. I had MUCH more trouble getting the pin back in afterwards.
We just need to keep telling ourselves that it will be worth it in the long run.
You do have the retaining clip off right?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 1
From: Liberty Missouri
You shouldn't have to remove the pedal assembly. I found a couple of things that made this a little easier. First, move the pedal back and forth while pressing on the pin. I also used a screwdriver on the head of the clevis pin which, while awkward to keep in place, worked better than pushing it through for me. Finally, loosening the bolts to the MC allowed even more movement. This should help you get it out.
Now the bad news. I had MUCH more trouble getting the pin back in afterwards.
We just need to keep telling ourselves that it will be worth it in the long run.
You do have the retaining clip off right?
Now the bad news. I had MUCH more trouble getting the pin back in afterwards.
We just need to keep telling ourselves that it will be worth it in the long run.
You do have the retaining clip off right?
Now my next question. I have been told that with manual break cars you need to move the pin down into the bottom hole when installing the HB. Well I only have one hole in my break pedal except for the one that the bracket for the break light switch is attached to. Is that the hole I should use??
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Hmm...interesting with only one hole.
If you can get a drill in there I can give you the measurement so you can drill it yourself for the proper location.
The problem with using the upper hole is the body of the Hydro has now dropped a bit over an inch or so, and that's a hard angle for the pedal rod and you'll be getting a lot of extra leverage that might make the brakes too touchy.
If you can get a drill in there I can give you the measurement so you can drill it yourself for the proper location.
The problem with using the upper hole is the body of the Hydro has now dropped a bit over an inch or so, and that's a hard angle for the pedal rod and you'll be getting a lot of extra leverage that might make the brakes too touchy.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 1
From: Liberty Missouri
Hmm...interesting with only one hole.
If you can get a drill in there I can give you the measurement so you can drill it yourself for the proper location.
The problem with using the upper hole is the body of the Hydro has now dropped a bit over an inch or so, and that's a hard angle for the pedal rod and you'll be getting a lot of extra leverage that might make the brakes too touchy.
If you can get a drill in there I can give you the measurement so you can drill it yourself for the proper location.
The problem with using the upper hole is the body of the Hydro has now dropped a bit over an inch or so, and that's a hard angle for the pedal rod and you'll be getting a lot of extra leverage that might make the brakes too touchy.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Do you know what the drop on the second hole is roughly? There is no way I could drill it in the car, but I am still wandering about the hole that the break light bracket is attached to. It has a bolt going through it to hold the bracket, but that is it. It’s probably 1.5 inches below the original clevis hole on the break pedal.
Yeah it seems as though the two are reversed. I see what you mean by no lower hole. The bracket for my brake switch uses the upper hole, dropping down past the lower hole, to meet the switch. The lower hole is the clevis hole for the power brake cars.
I'll bet you could make a drop down bracket like this one, or maybe buy one from a vendor, so you can switch the holes.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 1
From: Liberty Missouri
Yeah it seems as though the two are reversed. I see what you mean by no lower hole. The bracket for my brake switch uses the upper hole, dropping down past the lower hole, to meet the switch. The lower hole is the clevis hole for the power brake cars.
I'll bet you could make a drop down bracket like this one, or maybe buy one from a vendor, so you can switch the holes.
I'll bet you could make a drop down bracket like this one, or maybe buy one from a vendor, so you can switch the holes.
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Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,713
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 1
From: Liberty Missouri
That would have been great 3 hours earlier when I WAS HEAVING WRENCHES all ove the garage
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 138
Likes: 1
The hole that the brake switch actuator bracket is in is the hole you should use. PB and manual use different brackets.
Unfortunately your pushrod will be angled. You will either need to move the hydroboost down (like a PS booster) or make an angled plate for the hydroboost. This thread has a picture of the difference in the manual and PB position:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1554745644
Unfortunately your pushrod will be angled. You will either need to move the hydroboost down (like a PS booster) or make an angled plate for the hydroboost. This thread has a picture of the difference in the manual and PB position:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1554745644
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
The hole that the brake switch actuator bracket is in is the hole you should use. PB and manual use different brackets.
Unfortunately your pushrod will be angled. You will either need to move the hydroboost down (like a PS booster) or make an angled plate for the hydroboost. This thread has a picture of the difference in the manual and PB position:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1554745644
Unfortunately your pushrod will be angled. You will either need to move the hydroboost down (like a PS booster) or make an angled plate for the hydroboost. This thread has a picture of the difference in the manual and PB position:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1554745644
I may be mistaken, but I think he DID use the lower hole. He removed the bolt and bracket, so he could pin the pedal rod to that lower hole. Then welded the bracket to the clevis, so it contacted the switch just as it should from the same location. That's if I under what he was saying correctly.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 1
From: Liberty Missouri
I may be mistaken, but I think he DID use the lower hole. He removed the bolt and bracket, so he could pin the pedal rod to that lower hole. Then welded the bracket to the clevis, so it contacted the switch just as it should from the same location. That's if I under what he was saying correctly.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 110
Likes: 10
Hydroboost
Thanks for the help….I finally got it out..I just took the MC off and used a big hammer and screwdriver and bashed it out. I was tired of messing with it.
Now my next question. I have been told that with manual break cars you need to move the pin down into the bottom hole when installing the HB. Well I only have one hole in my break pedal except for the one that the bracket for the break light switch is attached to. Is that the hole I should use??
Now my next question. I have been told that with manual break cars you need to move the pin down into the bottom hole when installing the HB. Well I only have one hole in my break pedal except for the one that the bracket for the break light switch is attached to. Is that the hole I should use??
At least is goes together fairly easily that way. Anyhow getting to the Clevis pin, in order to make a little more room I disconnected the clutch linkage allowing the pedal to fall to the floor. I also unbolted the brake light switch, just moving it out of the way without disconnecting it.
I used the Clevis & pin that came with the booster. The Clevis itself is wider than the original & the pin is a little longer. The new pin won't go in from the passenger side, but goes in fairly easy from the drivers side.
There is plenty of room on the passenger side to install the cotter pin.
If you are using a truck/van booster that would be a whole different story.
Hope this helps
