LOL, hi guys, last week I purchased a 1968 Convertible 4 speed 327 (heavily modified is what I was told) with 55k miles from the original owner. The car has not been driven in the last 21 years. I removed the plugs and syphon some oil in the cylinders. Tomorrow I will remove the carbs to clean them out. Besides the obvious (new oil, oil filter, plug wires) what else do I need to do before starting the car? I am new to Corvettes, do they have a fuel pump? Where is it located? Also he said the car had a spyder differential? What is that? I am planning on running a hose off a fuel can since I do not want to mess cleaning the fuel tank (yet). I guess I need distributor cap and coil? I am trying to see if the engine is still good before replacing it. Btw, I will try to turn it at the crank before trying to start it. Any help is appreciated.

 

pics?

btw, congrats

 

Prime the engine to get the oil distributed throughout. They make a tool for this that goes into the back of the engine where the distributor goes.

Was it stored empty, or with gas in the tank?

Did it work when the previous owner parked it? Why wasn't it driven?

What is the over all condition of the car?

What does heavily modified mean?

 

IMO..A little bit of time and money, just REBUILD the engine! Save yourself the headaches. By this time next year maybe you'll have it running again. 21yrs. of god knws what is growing in there, IF it was a heavy mod engine that guy ran the dog **** out of it!! back when it was running, not saying that he didn't take of it but he must of ran it like he stole it! yes it has a fuel pump left hand side down below the exhaust man. GOOD LUCK

 

After being parked for so many years, I would treat it like a new motor and "Pre oil" it before you fire it up. PG.

 

I have no clue what he meant with heavily modified. The owner had a family emergency once and was clocked going over 160 mph by the highway patrol. They barricated the highway and got him to pull over. He handed over his license, told them he was heading to the hospital and slipped around the barricade. By the time he made it to the hospital they were waiting for him. His license was revoked and had not driven the car since then. The car had some bodywork done on the front and it was primed. Also his wife dropped the garage door on the trunk area and cracked a small area. He did not want to drive the car as is because most of the cops knew him, the car and his story :-). Not to mention the sheriff lived two blocks from his home.

I am pretty sure the fuel tank was not drained when he parked it. It was in a climate control basement for 21 years and then was parked outside uncovered. It needs a complete interior (carpets, door panels, hardtop liner and seat covers). The dash and center console is perfect shape. The soft top mechanics/railing is in real good shape but the soft cover is missing. I also need to replace all the weatherstrips. I will take some pics this weekend.

Btw, I like the idea of the priming tool. Do they sell it at NAPA etc?

 

Aruba ... please fill out your profile to include at least an approximate geographic location ... locale will become important when you ask where do I get a part, where's a rebuilder, anyone nearby to help, what's best weight oil (climate) etc. We don't need to know your address; approximate.

When new, all C3 had a mechanical fuel pump bolted to right (passenger) side of block near front.

 

What was his wife thinking dropping the garage door on the vette ! My daughter (about 5 at the time) came into the garage a little too hot on her new bike and scrubbed speed with the handlebars on the upper section of my 69. With my reaction I made her cry, I still feel bad about that. She"ll turn 16 in 8 months and she'll want to drive it, how time flies.

Congrats on the new toy Aruba.

 

Congrats Need pics

 

Given your description of the car, the gas tank is the least of your worries but you should have it cleaned (or replaced) also... along with the rubber fuel line connections at the tank and at the fuel pump. Dr Rebuild offers quality rubber hoses to connect the fuel lines at the tank and fuel pump:

www.docrebuild.com

 

ARUBA, you said it was heavily modified and to do 160mph it must be!!! I hope he didn't try that in Aruba,he would drive right off the end into the ocean before he could stop! Getting back to the car, the fuel pump could be electric so if you turn the key w/ a good batt. you will hear that sucker buzzing. your plan sound good, prime, oiled cylinders, change fluids and check everything!!! Don't listen to the guys w/ money in their pockets that tell you to pull it and rebuild it without trying to fire it up. You may get lucky and have a lifter tap for awhile That may go away too.

 

5 months ago I bought a 68 conv 327, that had been in storage since 1987 too

It only took some new oil, filters, plugs to get it running again.

But the PO had the car started once every 1-2 years or so...

If you get it started, remember to check if oil is getting to the topend. The was not getting any oil up on mine.

 

That story sounds like something fron the Dukes of Hazzard.

 

Oh man, you are giving me hope. I hope I am as lucky as you.


Lol, that happened in Alabama. I have been to 180 mph on a bike on our 2 mile highway “Sasaki Weg” in Aruba though.


Done and Thanks :-)

 

Aruba, I should add to use a good oil (Shell Rotella or a turbo diesel approved 20/50 oil) so you don't wipe out the cam with the crap their selling.

 

Last week I hooked up the battery and it sparked. Shortly after that I heard a noise in the engine bay compartment. It sounded like someone was frying some eggs. Took the battery cable off and a blue cloud of smoke came out of the engine compartment. One of the 3 cable to the started was fried. I removed those and bypassed the starter. The engine turned over pretty smooth (left the spark plugs off to circulate the oil). The starter made no weird noise, actually turned over darn smooth. Hopefully tomorrow I will power the coil and start the engine.

I have some pics in My Album. The last pic is off the fuel tank. It still shiney and has some gas in it. I could not find a way to post them to this thread.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/album.php?albumid=988

 

This sounds very strange. If it only has 55K miles on it then why does it need complete interior restoration? My 75 vette has 50K on it and it's like new...just a small cut in the driver seat; though, the carpet is faded a bit where the sun had been hitting it.

When you say "carburators" as in plural...does it actually have two? Check the engine stamp on the front right (passenger) side of the engine block...just in front of the head (it's on the deck portion that sticks out)...the last 5 of one of the numbers should be the same as the VIN number. If they don't then it's an entirely different engine.

If it has not been started at all for 21 years and you still want to keep the engine then don't even try to start it...pumping oil through it won't help if the bearings have fused. A lot of rust could have happened and any rust getting into the oil and pumped through the bearings would tear those bearings up in seconds. The seals are most likely going to leak as well. Your best luck for success is to rebuild the engine.

The fuel tank should be replaced...they did not have protective inserts back then, so it's just a steel tank...most likely rusted almost through...the same with the fuel lines. Brakes and brake lines will also have rusted out...all new brake calipers, lines, distribution valve, and master cylinder are required. Radiator should be rotted out (dipped in acid) to make sure it's clear of rust, or it may need to be replaced. You should also replace the battery cables...they are very long and prone to rust on the inside where you can't see it...in fact, a full rewire of all electical is advisable...it only takes a little rust for the wires to have a enough resistance to heat up and burn...catching your vette on fire is most likely not what you have in mind.

Fuel pump should be at the lower right of the engine...there's also a vapor recovery tank on the right drivers side...all rubber hoses in the fuel, emissions, vapor recovery, and vacuum systems should be replaced.

 

Rockn-Roll is most likely right, but you can get lucky.

My fuel tank was fine (no rust inside or outside) after 21 years in storage (also a 68) but the car came from CA and had been in dry storage all 21 years.

My brakes (looks original) was also working but started leaking a little after aprox. 500 miles of driving.

The radiator (harrison) are leaking though.

All vacuum systems works instantly when they are activated. The engine also works fine. BUT is was started once every year by the PO during the 21 years in storage.

 

Copper doesn't rust.

 

PMS is not to be screwed with.................

and the 160 claim.... well.... sounds like urban folklore's been putting on some weight


this smells funny