Car won't start! HELP
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 5,386
Likes: 2
From: San Angelo TX
Car won't start! HELP
Two weeks ago the car wouldn't start so I replaced the battery and everything was good again. Took it for a drive and put it away in the garage. Came back today to drive it and it wont start. I've got power since all my accessories power up when I turn the key but the engine wont turn over. 
The starter is making a noise that sounds like an electrical arc. Kind of a taser type sound. It's getting juice but doesn't have that normal sound when it tries to turn the motor over. Anyone had this problem before or any idea what it could be?
Thanks in advance
The starter is making a noise that sounds like an electrical arc. Kind of a taser type sound. It's getting juice but doesn't have that normal sound when it tries to turn the motor over. Anyone had this problem before or any idea what it could be?
Thanks in advance
Racer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
Sounds like something is draining your battery. Charge the battery up and start the car. You will need to find the source of the drain on the battery. It is a methodical process where you rule out possible causes.
Let us know if the car starts and we can go from there to try and find out what is draining your battery.
Good luck.
Let us know if the car starts and we can go from there to try and find out what is draining your battery.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 5,386
Likes: 2
From: San Angelo TX
The battery is fine. I already replaced it two weeks ago and the accessories all light up when I turn the ignition. The starter just isn't starting the car. In fact, it sounds really strange (not like a dying starter). it sounds like raw voltage under my hood. Like a taser gun in use.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 3
From: CA
As Bronze76 suggested I would charge your battery first. A weak battery will allow accessories to work but it doesnt have the power to engage the starter. The noise you hear is most likely the starter solenoid engaging, but it stops there since you dont have the power to turn the starter motor.
Once fully charged you should be able to start you car and then focus on the reason for the battery running down.
Once fully charged you should be able to start you car and then focus on the reason for the battery running down.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Lights and accessories don't take much power, in fact without an alternator charging you can put quite a few miles on just the battery and you would never know the difference.
I think you need to FULLY and SLOWLY charge the battery, have the alternator tested at a specialty shop, and perform some basic tests outlined in this paper to find any severe battery draw problems.
http://photos.imageevent.com/durango...%20Testing.pdf
I think you need to FULLY and SLOWLY charge the battery, have the alternator tested at a specialty shop, and perform some basic tests outlined in this paper to find any severe battery draw problems.
http://photos.imageevent.com/durango...%20Testing.pdf
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 39
From: Denver, CO
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
i agree with all above. the starter "clicking" is generally due to not enough cranking power. at this point you SHOULD be able to just jump start, though again, i agree that the slow and fully charging technique is best for the preservation of your battery. on the plus side, if it really is the battery, take it back now and they should replace it for free! to test the alternator is to remove two bolts and one nut if im not mistaken.. very simple stuff. if you can get it started and run it long enough to get to the local parts store, most have loaner tools and you can check both the battery and the alternator right there in the parking lot. with little or no work of your own if you want :P
common places to check: did you leave the lights on? did the courtesy lights stay on?
hope you get it sorted out
common places to check: did you leave the lights on? did the courtesy lights stay on?
hope you get it sorted out
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 3
From: Florissant MO
I'm basically having the same problem. I replaced the alternator. Then I replaced the starter. All connections were made while the battery was disconnected.
I then tried to start the car once all connections were restored. Nothing.
I then got under the car to check the neutral switch on the transmission. (4 speed). The neutral switch seemed melted. I then cut the wires to the switch and tried to start it again. Nothing.
Then the 2 fusable links under the master cylinder started smoking like there is something hot going to ground. Nothing was changed when I hooked up everything.
I then disconnected the alternator, thinking it was bad. Same symptoms when trying to start it.
I have put it up for the time being because I am starting to short out brain cells. Can't find the short, if there is one.
I then tried to start the car once all connections were restored. Nothing.
I then got under the car to check the neutral switch on the transmission. (4 speed). The neutral switch seemed melted. I then cut the wires to the switch and tried to start it again. Nothing.
Then the 2 fusable links under the master cylinder started smoking like there is something hot going to ground. Nothing was changed when I hooked up everything.
I then disconnected the alternator, thinking it was bad. Same symptoms when trying to start it.
I have put it up for the time being because I am starting to short out brain cells. Can't find the short, if there is one.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I'm basically having the same problem. I replaced the alternator. Then I replaced the starter. All connections were made while the battery was disconnected.
I then tried to start the car once all connections were restored. Nothing.
I then got under the car to check the neutral switch on the transmission. (4 speed). The neutral switch seemed melted. I then cut the wires to the switch and tried to start it again. Nothing.
Then the 2 fusable links under the master cylinder started smoking like there is something hot going to ground. Nothing was changed when I hooked up everything.
I then disconnected the alternator, thinking it was bad. Same symptoms when trying to start it.
I have put it up for the time being because I am starting to short out brain cells. Can't find the short, if there is one.
I then tried to start the car once all connections were restored. Nothing.
I then got under the car to check the neutral switch on the transmission. (4 speed). The neutral switch seemed melted. I then cut the wires to the switch and tried to start it again. Nothing.
Then the 2 fusable links under the master cylinder started smoking like there is something hot going to ground. Nothing was changed when I hooked up everything.
I then disconnected the alternator, thinking it was bad. Same symptoms when trying to start it.
I have put it up for the time being because I am starting to short out brain cells. Can't find the short, if there is one.
Silly question, but could the wires be backwards on the alternator causing the problem?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 5,386
Likes: 2
From: San Angelo TX
Since the battery is under warranty, I'm going to pull it and take it back to the store to test it/replace it. Then I'll try starting the car again and take it down there to have the alternator tested.
The lights are definately off and my courtesy light wasn't on. Heck I think the bulb is burned out since there is no interior lights lol.
The lights are definately off and my courtesy light wasn't on. Heck I think the bulb is burned out since there is no interior lights lol.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 5,386
Likes: 2
From: San Angelo TX
Ok, i had the battery charged and tested and it checked out fine
Took the alternator and had it tested and it checked out fine.
I'm at a loss for why my battery keeps dying??
I dont have any interior lights to drain it down (will be replacing all the bulbs this week) so I dont know what can be doing it. Any ideas? what accessories can remain on after the key is pulled?
Took the alternator and had it tested and it checked out fine.
I'm at a loss for why my battery keeps dying??
I dont have any interior lights to drain it down (will be replacing all the bulbs this week) so I dont know what can be doing it. Any ideas? what accessories can remain on after the key is pulled?
Racer
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 445
Likes: 2
From: Thomastown Mississippi
Hey DB, that's not a silly question at all. I did exactly that a couple of weeks ago. My two wire connector on the alternator kept popping out, so I pulled the two wires out of the connector to crimp them down a little, and yep, I plugged them in backwards. Had a 50-50 chance of getting it right and screwed it up. Two days later, I couldn't figure out why my battery was low and my alternator was warm all the time. Finally figured out what I had done and swapped them back. Doesn't seem to be any permanent damage to anything. Hopefully.
KC
KC
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Use that test light paper, and try pulling all the fuses and relays one by one until that light goes out. You need to narrow it down and if there is a significant draw that test light procedure WILL show you results.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,708
Likes: 266
From: indy indiana
DB is right about this test. Many times an internal problem in a switch,such as the headlight or starter switch cannot be seen.A testlight,such as a cheap screwdriver type, is worth its weight in gold.