82 brake questions
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: PA USA
82 brake questions
Hello all:
I have a couple quick questions before I take on this project that I couldn't find answers to in the search section. The project is a leaking front/pass side caliper.
1. If I replace one caliper does the other side need replaced?
2. I have read the procedure on brake system bleeding but since the problem was isolated to the front/pass side do all four wheels need bled or can I get away with just bleeding the front?
3. Is there any good brake replacement procedures (threads,links,posts) the repair manual seems very vague.
Thanks all for the input
I have a couple quick questions before I take on this project that I couldn't find answers to in the search section. The project is a leaking front/pass side caliper.
1. If I replace one caliper does the other side need replaced?
2. I have read the procedure on brake system bleeding but since the problem was isolated to the front/pass side do all four wheels need bled or can I get away with just bleeding the front?
3. Is there any good brake replacement procedures (threads,links,posts) the repair manual seems very vague.
Thanks all for the input
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
#1 - It is ALWAYS best to replace them in pairs, if not as a complete set.
#2 - Bleed both front and rear circuits. This will ensure you don't have small air pockets in the rear circuit, and it's good to get some of that old fluid out and introduce new fresh fluid to the system.
#3 - It really a very straight forward procedure. What part of the process confuses you? Have you conducted a search here using the advanced search function? You'll find lots of threads detailing it all.
#2 - Bleed both front and rear circuits. This will ensure you don't have small air pockets in the rear circuit, and it's good to get some of that old fluid out and introduce new fresh fluid to the system.
#3 - It really a very straight forward procedure. What part of the process confuses you? Have you conducted a search here using the advanced search function? You'll find lots of threads detailing it all.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: PA USA
Hey Thanks for the reply. I did figure it was good to replace them in pairs but I have limited space to work and I'm the only person available. Bleeding the system will be complicated enough with just the front let alone all four corners. Might sound like I'm cutting corners but I have no extra hands or feet for pumping.
I did do an Advanced search, I did think it was a relatively easy procedure but as I was reading I seen possible hang-ups with the pad placement over the discs with the 4 piston calibers. I noticed too references to shims? I've done lots of brake replacements and don't recall shims, unless they were know as something else? This is the first on the vette. I guess I was just trying to gather all the possible information b/c I'm not big on surprises. It doesn't take much to get me frustrated.
Thank you for the input and the reply is appreicated.
I did do an Advanced search, I did think it was a relatively easy procedure but as I was reading I seen possible hang-ups with the pad placement over the discs with the 4 piston calibers. I noticed too references to shims? I've done lots of brake replacements and don't recall shims, unless they were know as something else? This is the first on the vette. I guess I was just trying to gather all the possible information b/c I'm not big on surprises. It doesn't take much to get me frustrated.
Thank you for the input and the reply is appreicated.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I have never seen or needed shims when doing C3 brakes so unless you have an uncommon condition I don't think you'll need to worry about that.
The pads are simple and placement is easy considering the pins that hold them only go in one way. So long as the metal side is towards the pistons you can't install them wrong.
If you're really going to have trouble, stop by a parts store and get some check valve speed bleeders. They install in the calipers in place of the standard bleeder screw. They are spring loaded. You crack one open but fluid will not come out unless you press the pedal. This means that you can stick a plastic tube on the bleeder, run it into a catch bottle, and go step on the brake pedal a few time. Check the fluid level, and check to see if any air remains in the tube. Once it's free of air, close that bleeder and move to the next. They make it easy to bleed by yourself.
The pads are simple and placement is easy considering the pins that hold them only go in one way. So long as the metal side is towards the pistons you can't install them wrong.
If you're really going to have trouble, stop by a parts store and get some check valve speed bleeders. They install in the calipers in place of the standard bleeder screw. They are spring loaded. You crack one open but fluid will not come out unless you press the pedal. This means that you can stick a plastic tube on the bleeder, run it into a catch bottle, and go step on the brake pedal a few time. Check the fluid level, and check to see if any air remains in the tube. Once it's free of air, close that bleeder and move to the next. They make it easy to bleed by yourself.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: PA USA
I'm sure I have a pretty std condition so the shims caught me off guard too.
Huh, I never heard the check vlv speed bleeders. I guess you unthread the bleeder in the caliper and install the speed bleeder. Won't they leak? Have you used them? Do you stick sealer on the threads?
So I guess if the line is properly bled there will be nothing in the clear tube. Air bubbles will tell that the system needs more attention. Just never heard of them maybe its just that simple.
Might be worth a try, I really don't have a alternative except a brake shop.
Thanks.
Huh, I never heard the check vlv speed bleeders. I guess you unthread the bleeder in the caliper and install the speed bleeder. Won't they leak? Have you used them? Do you stick sealer on the threads?
So I guess if the line is properly bled there will be nothing in the clear tube. Air bubbles will tell that the system needs more attention. Just never heard of them maybe its just that simple.
Might be worth a try, I really don't have a alternative except a brake shop.
Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I'm sure I have a pretty std condition so the shims caught me off guard too.
Huh, I never heard the check vlv speed bleeders. I guess you unthread the bleeder in the caliper and install the speed bleeder. Won't they leak? Have you used them? Do you stick sealer on the threads?
So I guess if the line is properly bled there will be nothing in the clear tube. Air bubbles will tell that the system needs more attention. Just never heard of them maybe its just that simple.
Might be worth a try, I really don't have a alternative except a brake shop.
Thanks.
Huh, I never heard the check vlv speed bleeders. I guess you unthread the bleeder in the caliper and install the speed bleeder. Won't they leak? Have you used them? Do you stick sealer on the threads?
So I guess if the line is properly bled there will be nothing in the clear tube. Air bubbles will tell that the system needs more attention. Just never heard of them maybe its just that simple.
Might be worth a try, I really don't have a alternative except a brake shop.
Thanks.
The new speed bleeders, found at places like Oreilly and Autozone, come with thread sealant on the threads already. They close and seal just like regular bleeders. The difference is that when you loosen them to open they won't start dripping brake fluid. The fluid is held behind a spring loaded ball check valve. The only way to get fluid out is to build pressure behind the ball...as in pressing on the brake pedal.
You just have to make sure that the plastic tube is clear, and goes upwards so you can see the air bubbles rise. Catch the fluid, and make sure you never let the reservoir go dry.
I have a total of 10 speed bleeders on my car, two in the master, one per front caliper, and my rear calipers were odd and had three check valves each. I just went ahead and replaced them all.
Now, they are more expensive than standard bleeder valves so maybe only buy enough for one per caliper.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 551
Likes: 3
From: Spokane Washington
The best way I have found to bleed the brakes is to open all four bleeders and le teh system gravity bleed. Very simple for the do it your selfer. Just make sure to keep the fluid in the master cylinder topped off.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: PA USA
Well, just like a mini-check valve. Pretty neat. I'll check and see if the local stores have them or an equivalent. This way or the recently added gravity bleed appear to be good options for the diy-er.
Thanks a bunch to you all.
Thanks a bunch to you all.
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