Durango_Boy

Not sure exactly, but I don't think it does.

cajos

I had a CS144 shipped out to me from this guy howent@hotmail.com, he had a good price ($239.95 including wire, pulley and shipping) on a polished CS144, including the wire adapter and a 35 ohm resistor. Built according to the old DB paper. He also has chromed alternators. His shipping was dead cheap only 39 dollars to the Netherlands. Drop him a line.

TPI BOY

Where do you think I could get a
plug that goes from a tpi alt to a
cs144 alt

Durango_Boy

Post a pic of your alt or plug. I can tell you if it's a CS or an SI alternator.

TPI BOY

I would like to post a pic, I have had a stroke and only
my right side works well the left side, not so well, and my
care giver won't do it, sorry

markdtn

No, the 84-85 Vette uses the same connections as 69-82. The alternator is a bit different, but it is still a SI series. It has better idle amperage than a stock C3 alternator, but is still only 120 or so amps max. The C4s after 86 do have the right connections.

If you do a swap I recommend the CS144 over the CS130. Failure rates may be better than they used to be, but why take a chance when the 144 is proven, same connections, roughly the same price?

TPI BOY

Thank you
What is the best alt, cs144 to get what year car and make, 140 amp

Derby98

Thanks Durango for the paper. I wanted to replace the crappy reman altenator on my 71 anyway & your article has shown me the light!

Thanks for your work.

Ben

MN-Brent

Get the CS144 140Amp unit from a 93 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 5.7L RWD and equivalent cars. The years may go from 92-96 possibly. This has the correct mounting set-up with no additional brackets that can come on some other CS144 models. It will mount up just as your original, but you will need a bolt and nut on the top location as the hole side is different and unthreaded. $2 at the home Deopt.

They will come with a serpentine pulley. To remove it, just hit it with an impact wrench and it will zip right off. You can mount a V-pulley and zip it right back on with the same impact. It takes 1 minute to do this job.

You have to re-clock the alternator out 180degrees to put the CS electrical connector up on top pointing towards the drivers fender. Again this is very easy to do with removal of the 4 hold-down bolts. You need to use 2 pins to hold the brushes in place to remount the housings together. This job takes maybe 5-10 minutes, if your watching TV and chewing gum in your garage at the same time.

B...

Hydroboost unit courtesy of DB BTW.

KENS80V

I'm a believer in going to the CS144 alt as well. All my research on the subject pointed me towards the beefier model. I talked to a few of the local retailers and they agreed that the CS133 has a high failure rate (overheating) due to the smaller case and not enough ventilation. I changed out three of them on my Fathers Bonneville. It only had 50000miles after the third one.
The guys in the C4 forum tend to agree as lots of them upgrade to the CS144. Here is my setup. I upgraded to fuel injection and dual fans. My charge wire (back to the battery) is #4ga.

Durango_Boy

I'm getting ready to put together a hosted PDF on how to clock an alternator. Easy as described...BUT, for those trying it be very careful not to get one or more of the case bolts tightened more than the others. If that case it torqued and twisted the bearing in the front of the case can bind, overheat, and fail. Also it's tricky to get the brushes and springs back in the first time you try it. It can be frustrating.

71white

Thanks DB!

TPI BOY

DB are you going to post the paper on this thread

Durango_Boy

Yes either that or it I will start a new thread for it when it's done. It'll only take me a day to put it all together and get it written.

TPI BOY

would this be the correct cs 144 alt to buy
Delco#10479891 Lester#8112 140 amp

TPI BOY

Have you had a chance to do some work on the
paper yet
thanks

Durango_Boy

No sorry, but I'm sure I will get some time this weekend.

TPI BOY

Thanks I will look for it

Durango_Boy

No, depending on the year and style of the case, sometimes the rear shaft bearing will come out of the case instead of the front, and sometimes the brushes are worn and the holes no longer line up so you can't retain them with a pin before you even crack the case. Oh, AND, some guys like learning using pictures and detailed step by step instructions. I disassembled one not long ago for the purpose of showing all the steps. I certainly don't mind helping someone out by putting them into a paper they can view and use as a reference for their first time.

TPI BOY

I'm a 1 handed monkey so I need all the help I can get
THANKS DB