Bump Steer Problem 80 vet
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Revere Massachusetts
Bump Steer Problem 80 vet
Can some one tell me if the Anti Bump Steer Kits work to correct bump steer, and what is involved installing the kit. I don't have access to a lift but I have a ramp that will give me about 12 inch clearance. Do I have to hang the suspension or keep the wheels on the ramp to install the kit. Tips and problems that I may encounter will be very helpfull.
Thanks Joe.
Thanks Joe.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Revere Massachusetts
Can some one tell me if the Anti Bump Steer Kits work to correct bump steer, and what is involved installing the kit. I don't have access to a lift but I have a ramp that will give me about 12 inch clearance. Do I have to hang the suspension or keep the wheels on the ramp to install the kit. Tips and problems that I may encounter will be very helpfull.
Thanks Joe.
Thanks Joe.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,247
Likes: 210
From: Detroit MI
I didn't measure after installing mine (VBP kit), I went on the word of a friend that they eliminate most bump steer. If Jason Staley sees this post I believe he measured and there were only a few thousandths of toe change at either end of the suspension travel.
I can say that I think I can tell a difference in the way that I drive my car now that I'm not having to correct mid-corner as much due to the toe change. I also put in stiffer springs at the same time to help the problem as well.
You definitely need a lift or need to get the car up in the air on jackstands. Some kits have included large bolts so that the steering arm holes need to be drilled out...since you have a later model you may have to drill the second hole anyway (I think). The front tires need to be removed and you have to pull the brakes off to get the steering arms off.
I can say that I think I can tell a difference in the way that I drive my car now that I'm not having to correct mid-corner as much due to the toe change. I also put in stiffer springs at the same time to help the problem as well.
You definitely need a lift or need to get the car up in the air on jackstands. Some kits have included large bolts so that the steering arm holes need to be drilled out...since you have a later model you may have to drill the second hole anyway (I think). The front tires need to be removed and you have to pull the brakes off to get the steering arms off.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 156
From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
Yes, they make a great improvement IF your car is lowered. The install is pretty straight forward if your mechanically inclined. I have the type where I had to drill out both holes to 5/8" diameter, but I've heard there are some that use 1/2" bolts that don't require drilling out the tapered holes, but like 69autoXR said since yours is an 80 you may only have one hole which means you have you to drill either way.
The spindle arm where the block mounts can be removed without taking the spindle off the car, but you do have to remove the wheel, caliper, and brake rotors (if you've ever done brakes before, then this would be familiar territory). There are 2 bolts holding the spindle arm onto the spindle. Take the arm off and either drill out the holes on a drill press or take it to a decent machine shop.
The spindle arm where the block mounts can be removed without taking the spindle off the car, but you do have to remove the wheel, caliper, and brake rotors (if you've ever done brakes before, then this would be familiar territory). There are 2 bolts holding the spindle arm onto the spindle. Take the arm off and either drill out the holes on a drill press or take it to a decent machine shop.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Revere Massachusetts
Yes, they make a great improvement IF your car is lowered. The install is pretty straight forward if your mechanically inclined. I have the type where I had to drill out both holes to 5/8" diameter, but I've heard there are some that use 1/2" bolts that don't require drilling out the tapered holes, but like 69autoXR said since yours is an 80 you may only have one hole which means you have you to drill either way.
The spindle arm where the block mounts can be removed without taking the spindle off the car, but you do have to remove the wheel, caliper, and brake rotors (if you've ever done brakes before, then this would be familiar territory). There are 2 bolts holding the spindle arm onto the spindle. Take the arm off and either drill out the holes on a drill press or take it to a decent machine shop.
The spindle arm where the block mounts can be removed without taking the spindle off the car, but you do have to remove the wheel, caliper, and brake rotors (if you've ever done brakes before, then this would be familiar territory). There are 2 bolts holding the spindle arm onto the spindle. Take the arm off and either drill out the holes on a drill press or take it to a decent machine shop.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 156
From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
I guess I should have said for optimum effect, the car should be lowered. I guess you'd still get some benefit if your not lowered much, but you really want to be in the area that provides the least bumpsteer(the straight portion of the "new" curve).
