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Trailing Arm Bolt Removal, Blade Recommendation

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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 10:01 AM
  #1  
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Default Trailing Arm Bolt Removal, Blade Recommendation

I didn't take pictures of the entire install, but I wanted to recommend some sawz-all blades for the removal of trailing arms.

It took me about 10 minutes of cutting and 1 blade on each side of the car to get the trailing arms bolts out. I used WD-40 to lubricate while cutting.

The blades are called Lenox Gold, Bi-Metal, Titanium Edge Metal cutting blades. I found them at Lowes, they were $20 for a pack of 5.

Blades:



My 1979 L82 Vette Project:



I have installed a Stage 4 Street / Slalom suspension kit in the car, and replaced all my bushings with Urethane ones now. I just have to go get it aligned and the suspension should be done for now.

Thanks for all the great information in the forums, you all have definitely saved me alot of time.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 10:46 AM
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I've never attempted to remove the trailing arm YET but I may attempt this at some point when I need bearings. I'll replace both trailing arm with rebuilds and replace all the suspension bushings and maybe go with a fiber spring to save 40 lbs. I think I would rather have rubber bushings as the ride is better but that is just a personal choice.

I was wonder if there is enough room to cut the bolts off using an abrasive cutoff wheel?

Completely unrelated but I was wondering if the rubber baby buggy bumpers next to the license plate were painted red? I have a red '69 and mine are black.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 10:13 PM
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Cut them with Gold! Where are the other two blades? Are you saving them for another set of TA removals?

BTW, paint job looks great.
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 10:21 PM
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I want to thank you for the advertising. I have worked for Lenox for 23 years now and have told many here on the forum about the Lenox blades. The Gold are the best but there is a new one out called the T2 which is even better. I don't think they are in the Lowes yet but they will be. If anyone has any questions about cutting steel with blades let me know.

BTW WD 40 is better than cutting dry but a good cutting lubricant will make them last even longer. Any type of lub is a good idea.

Last edited by Gordonm; Oct 19, 2008 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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There really isn't enough room to get a wheel in there, and make sure to use 8in sawzall blades.

My dad stole the extra blades after he saw how well they worked lol.

Thanks for the complements on the car, I appreciate it.
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 02:56 PM
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Exdeath....I also have a 79 L-82. I love the paint on your car. What color is it? I know you have a lot of time and effort in the car. Great looking car!!!
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Old Oct 23, 2008 | 03:07 PM
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Default Candied

Thanks man

It is candied so it is custom, but candy apple red is about as close as I could say.

I definitely love the car, I am currently working on the interior and engine.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 03:09 AM
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what was the tooth count on those blades? look pretty fine-toothed.... I used regular milwaukee sawzall blades for the exact same situation, worked fine. i guess the main thing is high quality, and lube.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by rpoL98
what was the tooth count on those blades? look pretty fine-toothed.... I used regular milwaukee sawzall blades for the exact same situation, worked fine. i guess the main thing is high quality, and lube.
They are 18 tooth blades. The 18 tooth blade is actually the best selling blade in the world. It is the most used for cutting steel. Obviously not wood. The 6 tooth is the best for wood, nail embedded wood and so on.
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