When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I want to build a big inch small block and the Little M seems to be a good choice. I found an number of them on Ebay for about $800 less. They are Blems and they show what the blem is. I want to make something close to 475 to 500 HP. So... is this a good deal??
My younger brother has a Dart iron eagle 427 short block that would be good to 800+ hp. If you just run naturally aspirated and a modest cam you should still be well over 500hp. You could get it much cheaper than you could build one.
His email is mjh427nova@yahoo.com.
You know the old saying, if its too good to be true... or you get what you pay for etc..
I'd be concerned with the flaws you aren't seeing in those rejects. Seriously, trying to save a few bucks on the foundation of your big cubic inch build is not the best move IMHO. Do you really want to stuff a $2,000+ rotating assembly into a bargain block?
Usually your best bet is to get new blocks (and other components) through your machine shop - if they're doing all the work they have brands/models they prefer, and in almost every case they'll have a better price than the mail order folks by the time you factor in shipping, etc.
Also - if they're doing the work and assembly, they know what they like to work with. Walking in with a bunch of parts and saying "make this work" isn't fun (or cheap) for anyone
Unless you have built dozens of small block chevs,I would leave the assembly of a stroker,especially a big one,to the experts.I have helped out an experienced builder on a few 383's and there are more than a few critical clearances to watch out for that if missed will destroy your engine.If you are going to attempt it,do your homework!
Anything beyond a basic 383 - 3.48 stroke w/5.7 rods - takes a great deal of planning, mock-up and measuring to ensure everything's right. 383's with stroker-clearanced rods are generally pretty straightforward - but even a 396 can require a small-base circle cam and other design 'tweaks'. The experts know what fits and what doesn't - it can be expen$ive to find this stuff out on your own. So if you are doing this on your own, work up carefully from known viable configurations - starting with the rotating ***'y.
Wanting to do the final assembly doesn't mean you can't pay the shop to do the design and mock-up.
What I want to know is why is Dart letting 2nds go out the door to begin with. When your engine explodes due to a flawed block are you going to remember you bought a 2nd or just bad mouth Dart. Seems to me recycling would be a better idea than risking reputation smear.