Another V.I. R. thread
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Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
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From: Freeport FL
Another V.I. R. thread
I've searched and read the others.
It seems 50/50 whether to go with the VIR eliminator, or just put a VIR back in.
Reasons i have seen against the eliminator is lower efficiency of -134 and annoyance of the compressor cycling in and out. One guy even said it cycled like twice a minute which I find odd.
The PO removed the VIR and now that i have the engine out, now is the time to do something about it. Really, generally I have the tops out of the cars most of the year (yay, Florida!), so I wont be using it much, but still, if I am going to fix it, now's the time since there are no headers in the way.
ACkits recommended that I just stay with the VIR/R-12 when I told them my application (which will be a 383 with a roots type blower that I plan on revving to 6K).
If I do stay with the VIR, one thing I haven't seen mentioned in the other threads is how often the desiccant must be changed, and how this is done? I am guessing that you have to reach up from under the car and unbolt the bottom of the VIR? Does not look easy.
1976 coupe, if it matters, not the one in the Avatar.
It seems 50/50 whether to go with the VIR eliminator, or just put a VIR back in.
Reasons i have seen against the eliminator is lower efficiency of -134 and annoyance of the compressor cycling in and out. One guy even said it cycled like twice a minute which I find odd.
The PO removed the VIR and now that i have the engine out, now is the time to do something about it. Really, generally I have the tops out of the cars most of the year (yay, Florida!), so I wont be using it much, but still, if I am going to fix it, now's the time since there are no headers in the way.
ACkits recommended that I just stay with the VIR/R-12 when I told them my application (which will be a 383 with a roots type blower that I plan on revving to 6K).
If I do stay with the VIR, one thing I haven't seen mentioned in the other threads is how often the desiccant must be changed, and how this is done? I am guessing that you have to reach up from under the car and unbolt the bottom of the VIR? Does not look easy.
1976 coupe, if it matters, not the one in the Avatar.
Last edited by Droshki; Nov 2, 2008 at 01:46 PM. Reason: added year of car
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,235
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From: Mesa AZ
i've heard that with the cycleing compressor system people get squeeling from the vbelt because it doesn't have as much gripping force as modern serpentine belts. i don't think you ever have to change the dessicant unless you have the system open and it absorbs moisture from the outside air. here is a page i came across a while back on adjusting the vir to work with 134a. never tried it myself so i can't say for sure it works
http://buickperformance.com/ac.htm
http://buickperformance.com/ac.htm
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
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From: Freeport FL
Thanks for the response
I've not been able to find the dessicant discussed anywhere. You have the stock system on your car? And have never changed the dessicant?
I think then, depending on price, it might be just as simple to return to factory setup. Like I said, Im not neccessarily looking for 30 degree air. Functinality would be good though.
I dont see me using it more than a few times a year, when its too hot to have the tops out and once in a while in the winter for the defogger function.
(I just replaced the heater core and, while a PITA, it wasnt near as bad as the directions made it out to be, if anyone is considering tackling this).
I think then, depending on price, it might be just as simple to return to factory setup. Like I said, Im not neccessarily looking for 30 degree air. Functinality would be good though.
I dont see me using it more than a few times a year, when its too hot to have the tops out and once in a while in the winter for the defogger function.
(I just replaced the heater core and, while a PITA, it wasnt near as bad as the directions made it out to be, if anyone is considering tackling this).
