Was helping my friend change a couple of brake lines and bleed the brakes. One of the bleeder screws on the right front caliper was so rusted in it broke off even after a couple of days soaking in penetrating oil. :smash:

Can these things be drilled out and tapped and then a replacement fitting put in? If so, any tricks to it?

We could replace the caliper, but the front brake line is also frozen on and we hate to mess with it.

Suggestions? Thanks!

 

Remove caliper, drill with a small drill bit, enlarge slightly in many steps and try to move the bleeder.

But do not drill too deep, you will damage the seal flange down in the caliper.

Be careful!!! :seeya

 

Yes DO NOT DRILL TO DEEP or your bleeder will never seal. Learn from my FUBAR :rolleyes:
Scott

 

I have found in past experiences that getting the old remains of bleeder out without damaging the caliper are very slim.Anymore I just replace the caliper.

 

Joe,
Hi there, have you tried a small " easy out", I think I have some small ones if you want to use them, just give me a ring. 883-5308.
If you try to drill them out make sure you do not drill to deep or it will ruin the seating area and the new bleeer will not seat right. Sometimes if you use a drill that just fits and then keep going up one size larger at a time you will eventually see the threads and then be able to use a sharp pointed awl to remove the rest of the old threads. Good luck.

 

Hi...I have a few this as well.. :smash: ..I did see a $5.29 kit at Auto zone for this. It's for drilling and taping a new size bleeder screw for each one. All it comes with is the new over size bleeder and instructions on the back....It was in the HELP! section with all the red packages. Dont know if these work though as I have not tried them yet. Might just to see if the work and let you know.

Nicholas

 

ditto, my first brake job I tried the enlarging thing and it just leaked around the screw. Replace the caliper cause if the bleeder rusted in, then the rest of the caliper is probably screwed too.

 

I'd vote for use of an easy out.

 

Been there, done that.
Tried all options mentioned above but no luck. Even the easy outs snapped off.
Ended up with new calipers. And while I was in there, replaced the brake hoses as well.


Roger

 

Thanks to all for he suggestions. I guess it's try drilling and if that don't work, replace the caliper. It ain't gonna be easy though. :smash:

Thanks again.

 

Measure the depth of the broken bleeder with a small diameter drill bit. Mark your drilling bits with tape so that you do not drill beyond the bleeder and into the casting. The angle of a standard drill bit is different than the casting.... this is what ruins the sealing ability of the bleeder when you alter the casting. Use a successively larger drill bit and work your way up to the caliper threads, keeping as dead center as possible. You will be able to see the thread engagement line between the bleeder and the caliper when you begin to see rust at the thread parting line. This is the time to stop, and try to remove the remaining bleeder threads. This is definitely a tough maneuver... so don't be surprised if you mess it up. When I am successful at these, I run a tap in the caliper to clean up the threads. If the threads are damaged, a new bleeder will not tighten properly (crooked) and the tip of the new bleeder will not seal in the caliper.....so after all your work, you may end up having to buy a new caliper anyways. Back when I first started working on these, and Stainless Sleeves were just a wet dream, GM used to sell caliper halves, and I used to replace just the half that was damaged. I still have some GM boxed caliper halves.

RE: Easy-outs... I have a pile of these accumulated over the years. In my experience, they only work if the bolt/screw/bleeder is not rusted or otherwise jammed tight. In this case, they will snap off. Once snapped, easy outs are virtually impossible to remove... so you have to buy a new caliper.

Since your bleeder snapped off, this is a sure sign that it is rusted to the caliper casting extremely tight, and is probably also over-tightened as well. I would be careful with easy outs in this situation.

Tom

 

Tom (and eveyrone) thanks for all the info. We may give it a shot this weekend. I have easy out's of various flavors but as you stated, in the rusted shape that it's in, probably ain't gonna cut it.

Thanks! :seeya

 

I always use a reverse drill bit before trying the easy out. Sometimes it busts it loose and I don't need the easy out. Good luck.

 

always use a motorcycle type impact tool to remove the bleeders. these impact tools work by hitting them with a hammer. :chevy