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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 03:05 PM
  #1  
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From: charlotte north carolina
Default hot start flooding

posted last week about engine refusing to restart when hot(starts again after about a 30 minute wait) with mother in law in car.
pulled the carb today, and can't find a problem. no leaks from bottom of carb, float set properly (brass, not nitro-sorry lars!), nothing seems to bind and no bent or missing pieces that i can find.
what next?
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 03:23 PM
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Did anyone suggest that it was a starter solonoid problem and it was getting hot and not starting the car?
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 07:17 PM
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problem isn't cranking-it spins over like a top-i just get a strong smell of gas and it won't fire. when it's cold or after it's been off for a while, it catches in about a second. choke stays open when hot.
i know that it's flooded, but have no idea why.
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 10:58 PM
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Default Fuel return line..

Does your pump have a return line? if so is it capped off?
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 06:50 AM
  #5  
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Make sure the needle "pull up clip" is just over the float arm and not in 1 of the holes. If in a hole it will flood, despite where the float setting is.
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 07:18 AM
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Mine did that when I first bought it. I installed a heat shield between the carb base and intake and it fixed it. If you google carb heat shields on the net, it might help you determine if this is your problem. From what I've read, on these old carbed V'8s, when you shut the motor off, especially in hot weather, the fuel in the carb boils away, then when you try to start it later, you end up flooding it. The heat shield separates the carb from the manifold and absorbs the heat, preventing it from reaching the carb. They have a zillion different heat shields on the market. If you determine this is your problem, don't get one over 1/2 inch thick. You'll run into hood clearance problems. You didn't say whether this just started or it's always been hard to start when hot, but it's something else to check.
KC
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 05:37 PM
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If you are not touching the gas pedal,which you shouldn't have to do,you have to be getting gas down in the intake from the carb.
If the gas is "boiling out" the fuel pump should fill the bowls within 1 or 2 revs of the motor.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 08:32 AM
  #8  
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fuel return line is intact with new pipes. i'll check the pull up clip, but when i had the carb apart, it looked to be correct.
when i remove the gas tank cap, i get a little puff as pressure is released-i don't have a cannister installed. i can't understand how this might cause the flooding, but if anyone has any thoughts, i'd certainly appreciate their input.
thanks for the tips.
jeff
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 09:25 AM
  #9  
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From: Canastota Ny
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could it be a vapor lock of some sort? you mention the pressure in the tank after driving. I know there should be some but dont think enough that you can feel or hear it.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 09:32 AM
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The technique that works for me here in Houston where I have lots of hot restart opportunities from May to October is to hold the gas pedal between 1/4 and 1/3 open while cranking. Don't pump or you'll flood. It generally catches within about 2-3 seconds.

Note that my car is pretty much stock and I do not have a heat shield. The car is my driver so I put a couple hundred miles on per week. This may not be the proper technique, but it is one that I've had complete success using.
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 10:23 AM
  #11  
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From: Charlotte NC
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Mine does the exact same thing! I even put a 1" Jeg's spacer in between the carb and intake. no help. it is flooding. i can smell the gas when cranking. when this happens the only way i can get it cranked is to hold the petal to the floor and crank.
could having the carb to rich or lean cause this?
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 11:54 AM
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From: Algonac Michigan
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I don't remember what carb you are running,but if it is a Q-jet,maybe a fuel filter with a check valve will help.
Sly
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