What could be wrong?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Rochester MN
Thanks for the replies.
As an FYI, his shop rate is only $60 an hour (small town guy) so I think he had big plans for it including pulling the motor.
Any suggestions as to what to do? Will I get my $1K back if I want to sell it right now or should I lower the price and let the next owner deal with it?
As an FYI, his shop rate is only $60 an hour (small town guy) so I think he had big plans for it including pulling the motor.
Any suggestions as to what to do? Will I get my $1K back if I want to sell it right now or should I lower the price and let the next owner deal with it?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Thanks for the replies.
As an FYI, his shop rate is only $60 an hour (small town guy) so I think he had big plans for it including pulling the motor.
Any suggestions as to what to do? Will I get my $1K back if I want to sell it right now or should I lower the price and let the next owner deal with it?
As an FYI, his shop rate is only $60 an hour (small town guy) so I think he had big plans for it including pulling the motor.
Any suggestions as to what to do? Will I get my $1K back if I want to sell it right now or should I lower the price and let the next owner deal with it?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Rochester MN
Yes, the engine still has a slight knock under load, or higher RPMS or even idling. lack of power is very noticable too.
I talked to the shop again. Their book time is 11 hours for camshaft and lifters, water pump gasket and timing chain upgraded to a dual chain roller. The engine will stay in but the radiator and everything on the front of the motor comes out for the work. Between $160 and $300 for the cam/lifters seemed reasonable depending what I go with.
Anyone want to buy a wounded duck Vette? Seriously. I've been looking to sell it anyway and just don't have the cash to get it fixed at this time. $8K ish???
I talked to the shop again. Their book time is 11 hours for camshaft and lifters, water pump gasket and timing chain upgraded to a dual chain roller. The engine will stay in but the radiator and everything on the front of the motor comes out for the work. Between $160 and $300 for the cam/lifters seemed reasonable depending what I go with.
Anyone want to buy a wounded duck Vette? Seriously. I've been looking to sell it anyway and just don't have the cash to get it fixed at this time. $8K ish???
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,045
Likes: 4
From: Yorktown VA
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I wiped two lobes on my hydraulic lifter cam and there was no knocking. It would run OK, but it was a little rough and you couldn't put the hammer down without it hesitating. Spent close to $1K just for a roller cam kit from Comp. Shouldn't have anymore wiped lobed with it once I get it installed.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 663
Likes: 3
From: Denham Springs Louisiana
It's not that hard to do this job yourself and save a buttload of money. The forum can help you through it. 
Is the knock a deep knock or a topend type of tap? I would think a lifter is more likely to fail then wiping a cam lobe. But why the knock? A deeper knock is usually a rod bearing. How is the oil pressure?
Is the knock a deep knock or a topend type of tap? I would think a lifter is more likely to fail then wiping a cam lobe. But why the knock? A deeper knock is usually a rod bearing. How is the oil pressure?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Rochester MN
It's more of a rocker arm tap, not a deep knock. My oil pressure has always been really good at all RPMs.
As for me doing it myself and saving money. I'm smart enough to know this is beyond my capabilities. The most involved project I've ever done to a car is changing the oil. I'm sure the experts on this site could give me a very detailed step by step set of instructions but unless someone is in my garage showing me, I don't think it would happen.
As for me doing it myself and saving money. I'm smart enough to know this is beyond my capabilities. The most involved project I've ever done to a car is changing the oil. I'm sure the experts on this site could give me a very detailed step by step set of instructions but unless someone is in my garage showing me, I don't think it would happen.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Rochester MN
This is a reply to a very old thread. After storing the car in a "broken" state for over a year, I am finally going forward with a trusted mechanic to replace the camshaft/timing belt/rocker arms/etc. Besides the usual must-do stuff, what else should I have done.
i.e. He's pulling the motor to do the job so is it worth stripping it down to paint the block?
Before I get the typical list of ideas such as - new heads, headers, etc, etc, I am already signed up for the $1K repair so I don't want to add too much to my bill.
I'm probably going to wait to see how it runs when I get it back. He's good at rebuilding carbs so I might have him do that since it's been more than 15 years since somebody went through that and that means it has only put on about 15K miles over that time period.
i.e. He's pulling the motor to do the job so is it worth stripping it down to paint the block?
Before I get the typical list of ideas such as - new heads, headers, etc, etc, I am already signed up for the $1K repair so I don't want to add too much to my bill.
I'm probably going to wait to see how it runs when I get it back. He's good at rebuilding carbs so I might have him do that since it's been more than 15 years since somebody went through that and that means it has only put on about 15K miles over that time period.
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 406
Likes: 1
From: Maroochydore QLD
Hi Kevin,
You dont need to pull the engine to replace the cam, I did mine a few years back, remove radiator, support, hood etc, the A/C condensor can even stay in if you lean it away form the motor, it actually wasnt that hard to do. The cam cost me $150 and the rest was my own labour, BTW, even though these are hydraulic lifters, if you have had a shonky mechanic in the past and he screws the rocker down hard they become solid lifters and will chew the cam lobe clean off, thats what was wrong with mine. Luckily no other damage. If you pull motor definatley paint it and clean the engine bay, lots of cans of black paint in there will make it look nice, not much cost just some elbow grase and paint.
cheers, Dennis.
You dont need to pull the engine to replace the cam, I did mine a few years back, remove radiator, support, hood etc, the A/C condensor can even stay in if you lean it away form the motor, it actually wasnt that hard to do. The cam cost me $150 and the rest was my own labour, BTW, even though these are hydraulic lifters, if you have had a shonky mechanic in the past and he screws the rocker down hard they become solid lifters and will chew the cam lobe clean off, thats what was wrong with mine. Luckily no other damage. If you pull motor definatley paint it and clean the engine bay, lots of cans of black paint in there will make it look nice, not much cost just some elbow grase and paint.
cheers, Dennis.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,045
Likes: 4
From: Yorktown VA
NCM Sinkhole Donor
This is a reply to a very old thread. After storing the car in a "broken" state for over a year, I am finally going forward with a trusted mechanic to replace the camshaft/timing belt/rocker arms/etc. Besides the usual must-do stuff, what else should I have done.
i.e. He's pulling the motor to do the job so is it worth stripping it down to paint the block?
Before I get the typical list of ideas such as - new heads, headers, etc, etc, I am already signed up for the $1K repair so I don't want to add too much to my bill.
I'm probably going to wait to see how it runs when I get it back. He's good at rebuilding carbs so I might have him do that since it's been more than 15 years since somebody went through that and that means it has only put on about 15K miles over that time period.
i.e. He's pulling the motor to do the job so is it worth stripping it down to paint the block?
Before I get the typical list of ideas such as - new heads, headers, etc, etc, I am already signed up for the $1K repair so I don't want to add too much to my bill.
I'm probably going to wait to see how it runs when I get it back. He's good at rebuilding carbs so I might have him do that since it's been more than 15 years since somebody went through that and that means it has only put on about 15K miles over that time period.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Rochester MN
We both agreed that it would be able to be done with the motor in but he doesn't want to risk scratching the paint, dropping a wrench on a fender and cracking the fiberglass, etc so he's only charging me for the labor to do the change - not to pull the motor and put it back in. Seemed like a fair deal.
I think I'll plan to scrub and paint the block and I'll see what else I can get done at his shop while he works on it/waits for any parts needed.
I think I'll plan to scrub and paint the block and I'll see what else I can get done at his shop while he works on it/waits for any parts needed.