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Do I need to over-bore my block?

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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 08:19 AM
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Default Do I need to over-bore my block?

I am rebuilding my engine in my 1980.
I have measured the cylinder bores and they are between 4.001” and no more than 4.004”, however some of the cylinders have vertical scratches in the bores them self.
Do I need to over-bore my block or can I just replace my rings?

Thank you

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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 08:42 AM
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can you feel a ridge with your finger nail? In your opinion could you hone out the scratches? Was that caused by the piston pin?

I'm a firm believer in blue printed motors. Where everything is machined square and align bored on the cam and crank shaft. Balanced motors also gives extra hp.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 09:19 AM
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[QUOTE]
Originally Posted by gkull
can you feel a ridge with your finger nail? In your opinion could you hone out the scratches? Was that caused by the piston pin?
No I can not feel a ridge.
This is a picture of one of the pistons and as you can see the side of the piston is worn out.
This means that the side of the piston and cylinder wall were touching each other and wearing out.?

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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 09:23 AM
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The skirt didnt' cause that scratching. Look at the orientation: scratches are north/south, the skirt sits east west.

Last edited by LeMans Pete; Nov 22, 2008 at 09:31 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 09:28 AM
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I think you can hone that with success...just for fun how many Km's on that motor? 150,000 Km or so?
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 09:33 AM
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[QUOTE]
Originally Posted by foxymophandlpapa
looks like that motor has overheated quite a few times,
Once very,very,very badly in stop and go traffic. Oil pressure dropped down to 15 psi and smoke pored out of the exhaust pipes, but the coolant was still no more than 220F.
I switched the engine off and let it cool down for a long time.
Restarted the engine and it seemed ok.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by C3Paul

Once very,very,very badly in stop and go traffic. Oil pressure dropped down to 15 psi and smoke pored out of the exhaust pipes, but the coolant was still no more than 220F.
I switched the engine off and let it cool down for a long time.
Restarted the engine and it seemed ok.
I'm going to say that I mispoke. In the picture it looked like the rings gaps were all distorted, but it was just the flash.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 09:54 AM
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Suggest you have a trusted local machine shop check it. I do NOT know how or with what gages you're measuring ... but MOST novice folks do Not have good technique nor good gages. You may be a Pro with Pro tools, I dunno.

Keep in mind ... forged pistons require more clearance than do cast & hyper.

I can't say with certainty because of pic ... but seems more likely than not your piston is cast. Sharp pic of INSIDE/Underhead of piston will usually confirm.

After looking at pics, I don't know anyone who could say with certainty if your cylinder needs boring. But ... it don't look very good to me. And ... more often than not, an old 350 will need boring.

If you're gonna keep car, suggest you bore it ... even rebuild it as a cheap & simple 383.

Last edited by jackson; Nov 22, 2008 at 09:57 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 09:58 AM
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Is that an L-82 motor? If it is I'd just buy some forged flat top pistons, total seal rings, balance the rotating assembly, and a Crane 272 Powermax cam kit
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 09:58 AM
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I would do it anyway. You start fresh, and build new. If you cut corners, you will probably regret it later!!!
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by DIP51
I would do it anyway. You start fresh, and build new. If you cut corners, you will probably regret it later!!!
If I need to bore it out, how much does it need's to be?
Can I go with just 0.010 or do I need to go all the way to 0.030

Engine is standard L48 with 60XXX-ish miles and I belive to be true miles.

Dial Bore Gauge is 0.0005" grad. to 0.025"

Last edited by C3Paul; Nov 22, 2008 at 10:12 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by C3Paul
If I need to bore it out, how much does it need's to be?
Can I go with just 0.010 or do I need to go all the way to 0.030

Engine is standard L48 with 60XXX-ish miles and I belive to be true miles.

Dial Bore Gauge is 0.0005" grad. to 0.025"
Your machine shop can tell you how much they need to go. Good gage by the way. Nice to see someone who can use one.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 10:21 AM
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I'd have the machinist make a few passes with the hone thru the worst one and go with his advice from there. You can get coated hypereutectic pistons that'll work well and give you less scuffing. If you have to bore it, .020 is the smallest overbore piston I've found.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 10:21 AM
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[QUOTE]
Originally Posted by jackson
Suggest you have a trusted local machine shop check it. I do NOT know how or with what gages you're measuring ... but MOST novice folks do Not have good technique nor good gages. You may be a Pro with Pro tools, I dunno.
I have measured this myself and used dial Bore Gauge with 0.0005”-0.025 grad.
I have set the Bore Gauge to 4” in my Micrometer and than reset the Bore Gauge to '0'.
This gave me the measuring range of 4" to 4025".
Rocked the Bore Gauge forward and backwards in different locations and took a long time to measure as accurate as possible.
If there is a technique How To measure Cylinder bore can you explain it to me, please?

In your opinion, what cased the vertical scratches on the walls and pistons?

Last edited by C3Paul; Nov 22, 2008 at 10:35 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 11:08 AM
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Without being there and putting my eyes, my hands & gages on it ... I can't tell what caused damage or how bad it is.

It seems wide vertical scrape on cylinder wall is about 90 degrees from thrust face ... So, just a guess that some "dirt" or something that should Not have been there did get in there.

But what does it matter why? .. What matters is how bad it is ... and I agree 110% w/ each & every point said by L88Plus (I'd have the machinist make a few passes with the hone thru the worst one and go with his advice from there. You can get coated hypereutectic pistons that'll work well and give you less scuffing. If you have to bore it, .020 is the smallest overbore piston I've found. )

If you want to hear that you can simply hone it and get away with it ... OK you probably can. But if the bore is wide/tapered etc ... rings won't last very long. If the bore is not so bad then it'll last a long time. I can't say with 100% confidence by looking at some pics ... so I err on side of caution. Hence, get a local Pro auto machinist to check it.

Your technique may be fine ... but I sure ain't gonna write a book on it. Also suggest you have rods checked by Pro for bend/twist. My dial bore gage & mike increment 0.0001" ... but so what ... if it's not used correctly and the whole of the matter viewed in proper context then it matters naught who's got the biggest gun.

Last edited by jackson; Nov 22, 2008 at 11:23 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 11:22 AM
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I have been reading postes about engine work and many peaple talk about 'Torque plates' what does it mean? and why is it important to use Torque plates?
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by C3Paul
I have been reading postes about engine work and many peaple talk about 'Torque plates' what does it mean? and why is it important to use Torque plates?
As the head is tightend down (torqued) ... it distorts bores ... so that's why better builds are done with torque plates ... they are blocks of cast iron that have bore size holes in them ... torqued to deck ... then hone passes thru them into cylinder.

Gotta go ... wife & I travelling to state capital & museum to see glass art by Dale Chihuly. http://www.columbiamuseum.org/

Last edited by jackson; Nov 22, 2008 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 11:58 AM
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If your going to rebuild the motor, do it once, do it right. Getting the block bored is not going to be that much more than honing the cylinders unless you plan on doing it yourself. If it were me get it done correctly
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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Boring the block will be 10 dollars to 20 dollars a cylinder,depending on the shop.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
If your going to rebuild the motor, do it once, do it right. Getting the block bored is not going to be that much more than honing the cylinders unless you plan on doing it yourself. If it were me get it done correctly
So just to make sure that I understand this.
Despite of the fact that the cylinder bores are only worn out by 0.001-0.004” it is recommended to bore the block by 0.020” to clean the bores.
The reason not to bore the block by 0.010” is because the availability and cost of replacement pistons is not cost effective.
Am I right?

Last edited by C3Paul; Nov 22, 2008 at 12:38 PM.
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