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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 08:40 AM
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Default Wheel Hop

I just replaced the L-82 with a warmed up 400 in my 79, anyway with the original manifolds (2") it would spin and go when dumping the clutch, had a 1.90 60ft last week ran 8.295@86.92 in the 1/8. I thought it should be a bit faster so yesterday I installed a set of Hooker headers and a 2 1/2 with Flowmaster delta 40's. Had magnaflows with a Mid America dual system using the 2" manifolds. So now it makes a noticable amount of more power but wheel hops from a roll or terribly from a dead stop. So where do I start, I have this winter to correct since the tracks in the area are closed so hit me with suggestions. 275/60 BFG radial T/A's 3.70 gears.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 09:37 AM
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I had this problem for quite a while. I tried composite springs from 330# to 400#. Different shocks also. I finally 2 winters ago put in VB dual mount spring. I also went in and put in Dragvettes 6 link kit. You can see what I have for the rest of the car in my signature. I don't know if it was the VB spring or the Dragvette but it has cured the wheel hop. Next up I have a set of Drag radials to try at the strip.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 10:47 AM
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I put a vb&p traction bar on mine. that with bilstein sports made a world of difference. I`ve got 340 rwhp so traction is a problem. I think the bar did the most good. It bolts on the 4 spring bolts and gets welded to the frame, about $100
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 11:08 AM
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I'm not saying it did not owrk on your car but we did that on another members car with no results. He had an automatic and it never really had a problem before or after. I just recently put in a 5 speed in his car and he is back to the same wheel hop that I had on mine. The traction bar will make the rear more solidly mounted but if you have the front point mounted with poly and really locked down and have the rear mount with the reinforcing it cannot move. I run no traction bar and don't have the problem. This was a hot topic a few months ago on weather it did anything or not. You might want to check the archieves on this.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 11:31 AM
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I talked with a guy parked next me at Carlisle, he had a 67 radical sb. ran high 10's he had 5.13"s and mickey street slicks, and a traction bar bolted to the 4 spring bolts and snubbed up tight to the front. I was hoping it would be a simple as a glass spring and some poly bushings, mine has all the original 30 year old stuff. Gordon what does a 8.295@86.9 with a 1.90 60ft compute to in the 1/4? I was thinking 12.8-12.9
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 11:36 AM
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I have a brand new never used SSM traction bar for sale if you are interested. $100 plus shipping.

This is not my car, but here is some pics of it installed:



Here are some pics of the actual bar I have. It comes with mounting hardware and instructions:



Last edited by 7t2vette; Nov 23, 2008 at 11:40 AM.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 11:43 AM
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Might be considered extreme by some but, I corrected severe wheel hop by mounting the cross member solid and using an aluminum bushing at the pinion mount...other than some gear whine transmitted to the rollbar, I notice no other difference.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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I had a guy come in with wheel hop and he ask me to install the 2 aluminum disc's that make the diff support bar solid and he said it stopped his wheel hop.I know he didnt have a whole bunch of horsepower but it might be worth a shot.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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I'm planning on replacing the spring, so I guess while I'm there the aluminum discs and the solid pinion support bushing. looking at a 340 glass spring, and new shocks. I looked at the dual spring set up not really looking to spend that much. Any more advise welcomed.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by qwik-tripp
I talked with a guy parked next me at Carlisle, he had a 67 radical sb. ran high 10's he had 5.13"s and mickey street slicks, and a traction bar bolted to the 4 spring bolts and snubbed up tight to the front. I was hoping it would be a simple as a glass spring and some poly bushings, mine has all the original 30 year old stuff. Gordon what does a 8.295@86.9 with a 1.90 60ft compute to in the 1/4? I was thinking 12.8-12.9
Checking some of my old time slips one of the closer ones I have to yours is 2.08 60 ft. 8.356 @ 88.2 mph and 1/4 mile at 12.836 @ 110.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 01:06 PM
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I guess that is not too bad shifting at 5500 and running through 2" manifolds. I was really happy with the feel after we finished the exhaust w/headers up until every launch no matter what rpm resulted in big time wheel hop. but it sure is fun from a roll makes you almost lift in 2nd and leaves 5' marks in 3rd. Since the rear is all original 79 stuff I'll start collecting parts to overhaul the rear suspension. I don't plan on using stickier tires but want the parts to hold up if I choose to.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 07:44 PM
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I had a major wheel hop problem after I put full length ceramic headers and a true dual exhaust on my GM 350 330 hp HO crate in my '80 even after I had everything in the rear end rebuilt. I have a 3-bolt spring mount on my '80, so I had to make my own traction bar with a solid motor mount in the front and a rear mount I welded using a HD trailer spring mount and a 1/4" steel plate. That fixed the wheel hop problem with no other changes. T-bars work.



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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 07:58 PM
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I think if you put in the suspension locator discs and either a poly or metal snubber your problem will go away....... now if you add real sticky tires then you would IMO need to stick with the metal snubber and add a traction bar

just my .02

Doug
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 08:02 PM
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Try clamping the leaf spring about 5 inches in from each end. Make the plates out of at least 1/4 inch plate steel and grade 8 bolts. Makes a huge difference in your 60 foot times, I went from 2.00 to 1.88 and was able to launch the car at a higher rpm (I am running f-70 polyglas tires). This way, you get the stiff spring for the track and normal for street driving
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 08:08 PM
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I have also heard that the alluminum disks that vbp sells helps stabilize the rear end
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by morganjd
I have also heard that the alluminum disks that vbp sells helps stabilize the rear end
Didn't help mine. I tried those first, but as I said above, I finally removed the rubber bushings entirely and welded steel plates to the cross member and bolted it solid...
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 09:13 PM
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Thanks for all the posts, real data is great. I have a newer spring with bands about 5" in so I'll try that as a free fix 1st. then continue with the other sugestions.
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 10:29 PM
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Pay very close attention to the composite spring idea. You need shocks with excellent *above avg* rebound control. They will *porpoise* if shocks can't handle it.

I used a custom one for awhile and it was crazy. Now I was also using a dual disc clutch that hit it pretty hard..so it made it awful bouncy. I now have a 5 leaf Daytona spring with an extra main leaf added along with a *slipper* clutch. I'm on slicks etc at the track..so it's a little more extreme...but in your case I'd have a hard time not using a steel 7 leaf spring with the aluminum plates and a solid front bushing.

I don't use a traction bar on my current IRS or even back when I ran a stock Vette diff. It has never wheelhopped at all. Currently I have an added *wing* on the rear mount as a safety item that attaches to the solid crossmember behind the *sombrero* one with the rubber bushings. It takes part of the hit off the 2 studs holding the rest of it in place on stock mounts.

JIM
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 10:30 AM
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Thanks Jim, I have a new 7 leaf spring i picked up from a buddy, so I'll try it with the solid discs and the front bushing. What shocks are recommended?
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by qwik-tripp
Thanks Jim, I have a new 7 leaf spring i picked up from a buddy, so I'll try it with the solid discs and the front bushing. What shocks are recommended?
Bilstein sports...maybe...I went from KYB gas a justs directly into QA1 double adjustables with my new custom VBP380 composite spring, they work great
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