Rotor Replacement done
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
From: Lake Geneva WI
Rotor Replacement done
Well I finally got my rotors replaces as one of my winter mods on the Vette. Was pretty easy, following good instructions I found here. Used a 11/32" cobalt bit btw, and yes it cut like butter like many said.
Looks like someone else already tried to drill them out before me, but never completed the job so I did not end up needing to drill the pilot hole.
The question I have however is if I should leave the rivets in. I tried pounding them out and they appear to be there to stay. None of the who too or directions I had said anything about removing the rivets. Also, how can I "check the run out"? I see several how to's mentioning that , but not a one explains how, nor do they describe how to compensate for it if it is bad.
Thanks!
Looks like someone else already tried to drill them out before me, but never completed the job so I did not end up needing to drill the pilot hole.
The question I have however is if I should leave the rivets in. I tried pounding them out and they appear to be there to stay. None of the who too or directions I had said anything about removing the rivets. Also, how can I "check the run out"? I see several how to's mentioning that , but not a one explains how, nor do they describe how to compensate for it if it is bad.
Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
..
Relatively easy job with a drill press keeping the rotor flat. Using a oversize bit, drill the centers out. When the head of the rivet pops off your far enough. Then using a good sized drift just drive them out. You dont need to replace the rivets as the wheel holds the rotor in place. Make sure the hub is wire brushed clean or it might create a run out.
Relatively easy job with a drill press keeping the rotor flat. Using a oversize bit, drill the centers out. When the head of the rivet pops off your far enough. Then using a good sized drift just drive them out. You dont need to replace the rivets as the wheel holds the rotor in place. Make sure the hub is wire brushed clean or it might create a run out.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
From: Lake Geneva WI
Thanks for the advice and help. I left them in place, because again, none of the directions said anything about completely removing them. Do I have to worry about them flying out of there eventually? They look like they are pretty well stuck on. In any event I did wire brush things flush after using a chisel to hit any burs prior to placing the new rotors on the hubs.
BTW, now that I write this I think you may have understood my question to be about the stock rotors. I'm talking about the studs left over on the HUBS, not the rotors I took off and pitched.
I put new rotors on. Thanks!
BTW, now that I write this I think you may have understood my question to be about the stock rotors. I'm talking about the studs left over on the HUBS, not the rotors I took off and pitched.
I put new rotors on. Thanks!
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Freeport FL
At this point, you ought to be able to just punch them out with a hammer and punch, although I wouldn't loose an incredible amount of sleep over it if you already have the car back together.
I think the best way to check the runout would be to put the rotor onto the hub and secure it with nuts temporarily, and then set up a dial indicator so that it's resting on the face (brake surface) of the rotor, and then turn the hub/rotor and check for flatness. Might want to check it at more than one spot, say close out to the edge and then farther in, but I suppose any problems would be magnified out at the edge.
I think the best way to check the runout would be to put the rotor onto the hub and secure it with nuts temporarily, and then set up a dial indicator so that it's resting on the face (brake surface) of the rotor, and then turn the hub/rotor and check for flatness. Might want to check it at more than one spot, say close out to the edge and then farther in, but I suppose any problems would be magnified out at the edge.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
You will know if one of the rivets you left in works its way loose and wedges between the parking brake shoe and hub. I removed all of my rivets but missed one. A couple weeks later I heard a loud scraping noise coming from the passenger side rear wheel. Sounded like something that was going to be expensive. Pulled the wheel and hub and there was a rivet that fell down and got stuck, and as the hub turned it ground against it it made a heck of a racket. Took it out, put everything back together and everything was A-ok. Fortunately the rivet metal is a lot softer than the hub.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
From: Lake Geneva WI
You will know if one of the rivets you left in works its way loose and wedges between the parking brake shoe and hub. I removed all of my rivets but missed one. A couple weeks later I heard a loud scraping noise coming from the passenger side rear wheel. Sounded like something that was going to be expensive. Pulled the wheel and hub and there was a rivet that fell down and got stuck, and as the hub turned it ground against it it made a heck of a racket. Took it out, put everything back together and everything was A-ok. Fortunately the rivet metal is a lot softer than the hub.
I can't imagine one coming loose is gonna rip the hub off, so I am not too concerned.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
From: Lake Geneva WI
At this point, you ought to be able to just punch them out with a hammer and punch, although I wouldn't loose an incredible amount of sleep over it if you already have the car back together.
I think the best way to check the runout would be to put the rotor onto the hub and secure it with nuts temporarily, and then set up a dial indicator so that it's resting on the face (brake surface) of the rotor, and then turn the hub/rotor and check for flatness. Might want to check it at more than one spot, say close out to the edge and then farther in, but I suppose any problems would be magnified out at the edge.
I think the best way to check the runout would be to put the rotor onto the hub and secure it with nuts temporarily, and then set up a dial indicator so that it's resting on the face (brake surface) of the rotor, and then turn the hub/rotor and check for flatness. Might want to check it at more than one spot, say close out to the edge and then farther in, but I suppose any problems would be magnified out at the edge.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Freeport FL
No, no, you can find them inexpensively. There was just a thread on here where someone found them for 16 bucks, do a search on it. I got mine at harbour freight for not much more, and it came with all the attachments and a nice little wooden case.
Ill look for the thread for ya.....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...indicator.html
Ill look for the thread for ya.....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...indicator.html
Last edited by Droshki; Dec 1, 2008 at 08:15 PM.
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
.
a good parts store with adequate equipment to recondition rotors can true them up as if on the car....
PS, you should probably have it done anyway to make sure there true. Rehubing is not the most accurate method to simply put them back together. Have them cut and you will know there right, save you from doing it over.
a good parts store with adequate equipment to recondition rotors can true them up as if on the car....
PS, you should probably have it done anyway to make sure there true. Rehubing is not the most accurate method to simply put them back together. Have them cut and you will know there right, save you from doing it over.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
A dial indicator w/ magnetic base, or clamp is what you need to check runout. Yes, a Snap-on or Central set is expensive but check Harbor Freight and eBay for alternatives. There are some economical sets that run around 20 - 25 dollars. Some members on this forum have used and compared them to the more expensive sets and they say they are accurate enough for checking rotor runout. May be all the dial indicator you will ever need. And if you accidentally drop it on the garage floor no big loss.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
From: Lake Geneva WI
No, no, you can find them inexpensively. There was just a thread on here where someone found them for 16 bucks, do a search on it. I got mine at harbour freight for not much more, and it came with all the attachments and a nice little wooden case.
Ill look for the thread for ya.....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...indicator.html
Ill look for the thread for ya.....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...indicator.html
.
a good parts store with adequate equipment to recondition rotors can true them up as if on the car....
PS, you should probably have it done anyway to make sure there true. Rehubing is not the most accurate method to simply put them back together. Have them cut and you will know there right, save you from doing it over.
a good parts store with adequate equipment to recondition rotors can true them up as if on the car....
PS, you should probably have it done anyway to make sure there true. Rehubing is not the most accurate method to simply put them back together. Have them cut and you will know there right, save you from doing it over.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Freeport FL
Wow, I dont know how you all deal with it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
From: Lake Geneva WI
Neither do I. I was not meant to live in the cold. Its nice when its warm. We have a nice summer and fall. Spring and Winter appear to be one long season with a portion of fall included. Call it 8 months of winter and 4 months of summer. Its everything hell must be.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 716
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
I drilled out these rivets in my rotors several months ago and found a few that were difficult to remove due to not precisely centering the drill bit on the rivet head. I had to go back with a slightly larger diameter drill bit before they would knock out.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
.
a good parts store with adequate equipment to recondition rotors can true them up as if on the car....
PS, you should probably have it done anyway to make sure there true. Rehubing is not the most accurate method to simply put them back together. Have them cut and you will know there right, save you from doing it over.
a good parts store with adequate equipment to recondition rotors can true them up as if on the car....
PS, you should probably have it done anyway to make sure there true. Rehubing is not the most accurate method to simply put them back together. Have them cut and you will know there right, save you from doing it over.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Baton Rouge Louisiana
Do a search for "Enco" they have good deals on quality machine shop tools. You can buy the top of the line Starret like in the picture or an inexpensive copy that will still do the job very well. Once you have a good indicator and a decent pair of dial calipers you will wonder how you ever lived without them. Other than basic hand tools they are a "must have" for the guy that wrenches his own stuff.