I am in the process of deciding on parts for my 454 build. I will be having the block bored to .060 over with a XE268H Comp. cam and the factory 781 iron heads. The heads are fitted with the larger valves and are in great shape. It will also be stroked.025 with an Air Gap on top. Carb has yet to be determined. I know that the heads will be the bottleneck but I feel I can still get 500hp anyway.
My problem is with the pistons. I want to bring the CR up to 10:1 or a bit less and was prepared to order the Speed Pros #H581cp. But to my surprise they are over $60.00 each!!
So I had my parts guy give me a price on simple alum. forged pistons and they were surprisingly a few bucks more each.
Is there anyone out there that knows where I can get an approx 25cc dome piston at a more reasonable price? I know that a big block build is not cheap and I will pay if I have to but If I can save some coin here there are other places I can spend it...Like the carb.
Any input to what I have stated above would be greatly appreciated.
And by the way,Jackson,your mail box is full. I imagine you get a LOT of questions asked!
Thanks in advance to all that take the time to answer.
Sly

 

Try this.....about $50.00 ea
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...07&CtgID=18789

 

This is what I used, for app. 10:1

69VETT

 

So you're building a 496 stroker? If you were to do some port work to those heads they are capable of incredible power....but they need work on them.

I absolutely am not a fan of hypereutectics for this stuff at all. No reason to risk it. Spend the money to build a good strong shortblock and then you can add power as you go and not worry about it. Basic forged anything will help, but the better ones will be in the $400-600 range a set. If you check around you can find decent seals on the crank, rods, pistons, rings and bearings and save some bucks. Check Competition Products of Flatlander.

JIM

 

here is alink for $38 http://www.flatlanderracing.com/trwchevy454.html
however for a stroked 500hp. I would think twice about the Hypertek pistons.

 

Those are the same pistons that I want to order(except at .060 over) but I got a price of $63.00 each! How much did yours set you back...the same I would imagine. I then asked for a price on reg. forged Speed Pro pistons and they were $66.00 each.

I failed to mention that the heads have been port matched. I agree and plan to build this as a stout short block,but I get learry when I deal with a co. that I have never bought from before,as far as quality goes.
I try to stay with Speed Pro when I can due to there Quality for the price. I plan on running a cast steel crank and feel this will be adequate for a carbed motor with no squirt. The bearings will be Clevite,with the rods coming from speed pro also if the price is right
I will check with Flatlander and see what they got.

Thanks for the input guys.
Sly

 

I agree so it looks like 5 to $700.00 for reg forged with approx 20-25cc dome to work with my 188cc open heads.
Oh well!!!!
I really didn't think they would be that much.

Thanks,
Sly

 

Port matching always helps but honestly does little for power. Get some bowl work done, minimum (where the power is at). Good bang for the buck.

 

Thanks, I will get some prices on the bowl work.
Sly

 

Well building a BBC is not a cheap adventure. I have built 2 over the last 17 years, the 427 cost me 10K and the 468 was 16K. So its a pleasure to be building a mild SBC for a change lol.

 

The cast crank will be OK if you keep RPM down...but be very careful of what piston you get. Lighter is definitely better and also watch the rods...there are several versions out there. If you end up with a heavy piston and rod setup, don't be surprised if you spend more than the cost of the crank to balance it.

I have a buddy doing one of these right now. He found some light pistons and it balanced pretty well. I'd still spend the money...it's not much more to get a forged crank with center counterweights. Whatever you do stay away from CAT branded junk.

The power these things can make is pretty serious and that cheap crank has to handle it all.

Find someone to do some real port work..those heads will come alive. Or search for a good deal on some aftermarket ones and sell yours before you get upside down in them. If you can do work yourself, it's not so bad...but paying someone gets expensive.

Check:

http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/vortec...Q_fromZQQ_mdoZ

for some combo ideas. He's making great power with combos like this. He's got a good reputation and seems honest.



JIM

 

Why are you only stroking it 25 thousands (4.025) and I would think that would be a custom crank and a 4.250 stroke is a shelf crank.

 

My 427 used a 2bolt main 454 block, 1969 forged steel cross drilled 427 crank. Bull**** 3/8 rods with good ARP bolts. The pistons were Speed pro L2468F i believe? The bottom was balanced. The cam was a hyd roller, .595 lift and .245/.255 @.050 on a 112 LSA. The motor idles well and made lots of vac. The heads were Edelbrock RPM performer oval ports, the intake was an RPM performer dual plane. The motor made 550HP and 513 TQ on the dyno. It was all done by 5800 RPM. This was an 11.2-1 compression motor that ran great on 91 octane fuel. I did put an Edelbrock 250 shot nitrous kit on it as well. Thats why the 112 LSA cam.

 

The 468. was the same a studded 454 2 bolt block. An internal balanced Eagle rotating 4340 forged steel crank H-beam rods and SRP full floating pistons. This was a 12.3-1 compression motor with AFR 305 rec port heads The cam was a solid billet roller, 695/684 lift with /262/272/@.050 on a 112. Edelbrock Victor JR intake. Motor made 708HP and 622 TQ motor only. On nitrous we made 1006 HP.

Still ran this motor on 91 0ctane with VP C5 booster. i did crank the timing down for street driving.

 

Sorry,Typo. It will be stroked a full 1/4"

With the trans and rear gear I doubt this eng will spend much time over 5500rpm's thus the cast steel crank.
In the end all I want is a good stout motor that has alot of torque at low end of the rpm's. I want to keep the CR at 10:1 or a bit lower. And I need to keep the price as low as poss. If there is a part that I need and it is expensive,I will shop for a deal. If I find that there are no deals out there,I save till I can afford the part I want. I will not sacrifice quality for cost.
I was not aware that the weight of the components of the rotating assembly would impact the price to balance.
Looks like I will go with the speed pro pistons that I originally picked. They are right for what I want to do with this build. I will just have to save a bit more before I buy them.
Thanks all,
Sly

 

Sly:
Purposely, my IM box is full because I don't like & don't want IM ... but my email box is usually open as I welcome most legit motor tech discussion; I'm not a drag racer so I can't add much there.

I assume you mean your heads have 118cc chambers and you're building a 496" motor with 4.310" bore & 4.25" stroke and you're using rods that have a stock 6.135" rod length & your block is Not a "tall deck" version?

If you're going to do a 4 1/4" stroke 496" motor ... then the H581CP60 piston is ENTIRELY WRONG ... it won't fit period ... it has wrong compression distance ... H581CP60 (1.640"cd) is correct for 4" stroke with stock OE 6.135" rod length.

Maybe you should look at H603CP60 ... @ +0.060" ... book says 1.525" cd and 0.245" tall dome with +21cc dome volume ... std ringpak.

w/ H603CP60 & pending your deck&gasket ... I see scr range about 9.8 to 10.2:1

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/trwchevyspecial.html

http://www.21cgt.com/FMWebCatalog/frmConversion4.aspx

-add- book shows a lite piston quite similar to H603 ... lite piston is p/n H112CP60 ... book says +21cc, 1.525"cd, but 0.240" dome... amd instead of std ringpak H112CP60 uses 1/16,1/16,3/16" ringpak. Heck summit shows this in +100 OS for less than $39 each http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

for even lower scr ... p/n H552CP60 ... 1.525"cd ... 0.100" dome ... +11.2cc dv ... std ringpak

IMHO .. @ about 10:1 or less & under 5.5K I don't consider sp/trw/fm hypers as risky in a street car with no charging & no spray.

 

Why not go out and buy the Scat kit. Stroker crank (cast 9000 series), rods with ARP bolts, forged SRP pistons, mony rings and bearings for about 1,200?
I don't think you can put new parts together for less.
Terry

 

Could someone explain to me the difference between a stroker crank w/4.250 rod journals and a stock 4.00 crank with 6.385 rods as opposed to the stock 6.135 rods? Same stroke just gaining 1/4" in different places. Seems simple but I have the feeling it is a little more involved than that.
Sly

 

Cubic Inches is bore x stroke x 8.
Changing the rod length does not affect CI's. You need different pistons with different rod lengths.
A 454 with longer rods and a 4" stroke is still a 454.

1/4 inch stroke and longer rods will internal balance, which is a good thing, plus more cubes = more torque.
Hope this helps.
Terry