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I have a Street Avenger 670 and want to change the power valve. What is the difference between:
Single Stage Power Valves?
2 state Power Valves?
High Flow Power Valves?
Single is activated at a predetermined Vac level 1.5-2 " below your lowest vac # in drive (auto) or in gear for a stick.
2 stage is exactly the same but it help with a first enrichment stage at a high manifold vac level....developed for ex. tow truck pulling somone that needs more fuel but can't wait for the Vac to drop to get get it
High flow is I believe the standard today and I think it is also called a picture window PV. They used to make other PV with circle holes instead of the picture window, but as usual things change.
That being said pic a standard holley PV and use that. I do not think they are even making the 4or 6 hole PV's any more.
Why do you want to change the PV?
Last edited by 76 sting; Dec 7, 2008 at 12:58 PM.
Reason: add line
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
single stage is what comes in most holleys, the two stage is as described above, I think that the carb has to be designed for the two stage to use it, the high flow PV is for engines that need more flow from the PV circut beyound what is normal. The high flow PV has more clearance between the internal stem and the houding to allow more flow through the PV, a standard PV (single stage) will flow enough fuel to support a .120" orffice. most holleys have a PV orffice in the .060 to .070" size. The L88 vettes had a holley that had .092" PVCR's if I rmember right and used the single stage PV's. The internal main well will not out flow a regular PV, the limit will be the main well.
Even though I am getting 16" of vacuum (idling and in Park), when I drop it in Drive, the vacuum drops to 10". The PV I currently have is a 6.5...so I thought if I change it to a 4.5, it would help the idling while in drive.
Even though I am getting 16" of vacuum (idling and in Park), when I drop it in Drive, the vacuum drops to 10". The PV I currently have is a 6.5...so I thought if I change it to a 4.5, it would help the idling while in drive.
I have a 4.5 because in drive I have 8 " of vac. Please do yourself a big big favor and buy a Holley book to gain a better understading of your carb. The PV has almost nothing to do with idle circuit unless things are way way off. Unless you are having a significant issue with hesitation or a bog off the line leave all as is.
I bought a Holley book used of of e-bay for $8 and that was the best bargin that I ever got. You really need to farmiliarize youself more with the circuits, i.e. idle cruise, and WOT.
what type of idle issues are you seeing? we need details...
My car starting running rich when it got warm. idle started to suck also. put in a new PV 4.5 from o'rilleys and smaller jets. runs great. I went one size under the stock advenger jets.
Check the accelerator pump lever on the primary bowl to make sure it's adjusted properly. It should be adjusted so that at WOT it can still move at least an additional .015", and at idle it should be just slightly off the pump cam lever (.002" or so) so that fuel isn't dribbling out of the boosters at idle. As long as the PV isn't blown and it's rated at 1.5 inches less than idle vacuum there shouldn't be a problem there. As for the main jets, they don't affect idle, so if you have an overrich idle condition changing the mains won't affect the problem.