CS130 Wiring Question
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Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,258
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From: Huntsville Alabama
CS130 Wiring Question
Ok I have went through 2 cs130's. I have installed this in my 75 vette. The first cs130 lasted about a year and a half. It was hooked up with the s terminal to the back of the alt and the l to a 12 ignition hot. The second cs130 after i was told to use a resitor was hooked up the same way just with a 15 ohm 2 watt resistor like the painless wiring adapter uses. well the 2nd one with the resistor lasted only 6 months. So i have the new alt installed in the car and found these 2 diagrams. I do not have the idiot light or the factory wiring harness. I have an ez wiring harness in the car. So which one of this pics is correct for using the cs130 without a idiot light or resistor. I already have the paper on th install, its great if you have the factory wiring, but i do not have factory wiring.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Go to a Napa and order part #EC82. It's an electrical connector with a CS plug on one end and an SI adapter on the other. Cut the SI adapter off, and splice your wiring to the new wiring, which has the needed resistor.
Letter 'S' on the plug gets constant 12V so connect any constant 12V to the 'S' wire going into the plug. Usually red. Then connect any switched 12V to the wire leading to position 'L' on the plug. The resistor is already inline in this same wire so just splice to the end of it where you cut off the SI plug.
Then plug it in, and you're good to go.
Oh, the large red gauge wire goes to the BAT terminal on the alt and it's best if it doesn't share the same direct source as the one that leads into the plug.
Letter 'S' on the plug gets constant 12V so connect any constant 12V to the 'S' wire going into the plug. Usually red. Then connect any switched 12V to the wire leading to position 'L' on the plug. The resistor is already inline in this same wire so just splice to the end of it where you cut off the SI plug.
Then plug it in, and you're good to go.
Oh, the large red gauge wire goes to the BAT terminal on the alt and it's best if it doesn't share the same direct source as the one that leads into the plug.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Pro
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 716
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
[QUOTE=Durango_Boy;1568276845]Go to a Napa and order part #EC82. It's an electrical connector with a CS plug on one end and an SI adapter on the other. Cut the SI adapter off, and splice your wiring to the new wiring, which has the needed resistor.
I bought the NAPA harness with built-in resistance on my CS130 conversion and so far, so good (been about 15 mo.) I also made a custom bracket to keep the rear of the case rigidly mounted. I read somewhere that this was a good idea on the CS130 and would make it last longer.
However, any alternator should last more than 6 mo. so I would guess your problem may be with the resistance. I bought a Duralast Gold CS130 - brand new for about $130 and it came with a life time warranty so something to think about if you don't want to spend any more money on them.
I bought the NAPA harness with built-in resistance on my CS130 conversion and so far, so good (been about 15 mo.) I also made a custom bracket to keep the rear of the case rigidly mounted. I read somewhere that this was a good idea on the CS130 and would make it last longer.
However, any alternator should last more than 6 mo. so I would guess your problem may be with the resistance. I bought a Duralast Gold CS130 - brand new for about $130 and it came with a life time warranty so something to think about if you don't want to spend any more money on them.
