DIP51

I didn't want to hijack a previous thread, so I started a new one. I bit the bullet and bought a TKO 5 speed for me for Christmas!!!

I am in the process of getting all my ducks in a row before I start the swap, and was considering an aluminum flywheel while I had the car apart.

It has a zz454 crate motor in it with a 3.73:1 rear. What are the pros and cons of having the reduced rotating mass, and is it worth doing, or should I leave well enough alone and enjoy the overdrive as is???

Thanks for any input!!!

Gordonm

Go with the aluminum wheel. I have one behind my 385 SB and it is much better than the 30 pound steel wheel I used to have. You have plenty of torque with the BB you are using so taking off is not an issue. It took me about 5 minutes to get used to the aluminum vs steel wheel. It revs much quicker with the aluminum wheel.

DIP51

I'm assuming you can use the same pressure plate?? I have a new clutch that the fine folks at Keisler threw in as a bonus for their Black Friday special, so I was just going to replace the flywheel while I was in there.

Gale Banks 80'

I don't recomend a Aluminum Flywheel I had one for about a 100 Miles and Switched to a Steel one. But there is more to it then that. I had a Mcleod Street Twin Clutch wich as increadably high pedal pressure and very graby engagement. Both of wich make for lousy street manors and the lighter flywheel was the worst thing I could have. I now have a Lightweight Steel Flywheel and a Spec Super Twin Clutch wich has light Pedal Pressure and is very progresive in Engagement. I also have my Hydaulic Throwout Bearing issues sorted out and finnaly have a very long and difficult part of my project done. ( now that there is a Foot of Snow) Feel free to ask more I'd be glad to steer anyone away from the mistakes I made.

DIP51

How much weight savings is in a lightweight steel unit?? Is it worth doing?? I feel there is plenty of power in my setup, and with 3.73's there is plenty of quick revs also!!

I'm not looking to do anything just for the sake of being able to claim I have it in the car. If there are benifits, while the car is apart, I would put in the proper pieces to improve performance.

Gordonm

That sounds more like a clutch problem than a flywheel problem. You have gone to a lightweight setup since the problems and they seem to have gone away. I went with a light flywheel and kept my Centerforce DF clutch and just swapped everything over. The clutch grabbed just the same as before. The only difference is it takes a few more revs or just getting into the throttle slightly more to get the car moving from a stop. Now this is under normal driving. If I want to get into it I can't tell the difference.

It sounds like by your clutch setup you are running some serious HP levels. When you get up into the high HP numbers 700 or above all things are different in the clutch system. Glad you are getting it worked out.

My steel wheel was 30 pounds, my aluminum one is 14 pounds so yes there is quite a difference. You will notice a difference from one to the other. The steel one will work fine but the aluminum will take some weight off the rotating mass therefore spin it up faster.

Ironcross

A OEM 454 correctly balanced 15 lb high performance nodular iron wheel is available from GM, part # 3963537 the flywheel ID #3935411. It uses a 10.4 disc and pressure plate. Its ring gear outside diameter is 12.1/4 in. and is the 454 equivalent to the L88 15 lb high performance wheel.

Jason Staley

I found the aluminum flywheel improved my shifts greatly, especially down shifting. I have only a SB350 and I didn't find any driveability issues with the aluminum flywheel, but I did have to adjust my driving style a little bit to accomodate the change.

Gale Banks 80'

I didn't weigh the Spec steel Flywheel before I installed it. It however is a CNC Machined Billet and anywhere there was extra Mass they Machined it off. I'd say its 1/3rd lighter than a Stock one and 1/3rd heavier than an Aluminum one.

Gordonm

I guess that would be very close to 20 pounds.
1/3 lighter than 30 is 20 pounds
1/3 heavier than 15 pounds is 20 pounds.


What kind of power are you running?

Gale Banks 80'

Well I have a 400 CI Smallblock with Two Turbo's at 8 PSI so that should put me in the 750 HP range. Should the need for speed require more I can Intercool and Turn the Boost up to 22 psi and that should double things.

gkull

The light weight flywheel is only a small part of the total rotating weight

typical small block 8 inch damper is 8-10 pounds. The crank is 48 - 58 pounds depending on main journal size. Stock flywheels are 30 or 40 pounds. Then the clutch and pressure plate weight. Add in timing chain, Cam, dist, rods, and pistons and you have 140+ pounds of rotating mass in front of the tranny. This not including the alternator and fan weight if you have one.

Big block chevy add 20+ pounds in just the crank, rods, pistons.

I used the small journal 42# crank, small 6.250 inch damper, billet steel here and there.

So big block can get away with the lightest fly wheels and not even have a driveabilty problem of a small block

DIP51

I found it on a GM Perfomance page for $187. It doesn't list the weight, but the part #'s match.

Will that accept the pressure plate that is in there now, or will I need to upgrade that also?? I don't think I will need to go with a crazy clutch setup, because I am only running about 440hp...at least that is what "The General" claims!!!