Aluminum Flywheel Questions
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,040
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From: State of Confusion!!!
2018 C2 of Year Winner
Aluminum Flywheel Questions
I didn't want to hijack a previous thread, so I started a new one. I bit the bullet and bought a TKO 5 speed for me for Christmas!!! 
I am in the process of getting all my ducks in a row before I start the swap, and was considering an aluminum flywheel while I had the car apart.
It has a zz454 crate motor in it with a 3.73:1 rear. What are the pros and cons of having the reduced rotating mass, and is it worth doing, or should I leave well enough alone and enjoy the overdrive as is???
Thanks for any input!!!
I am in the process of getting all my ducks in a row before I start the swap, and was considering an aluminum flywheel while I had the car apart.
It has a zz454 crate motor in it with a 3.73:1 rear. What are the pros and cons of having the reduced rotating mass, and is it worth doing, or should I leave well enough alone and enjoy the overdrive as is???
Thanks for any input!!!
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Go with the aluminum wheel. I have one behind my 385 SB and it is much better than the 30 pound steel wheel I used to have. You have plenty of torque with the BB you are using so taking off is not an issue. It took me about 5 minutes to get used to the aluminum vs steel wheel. It revs much quicker with the aluminum wheel.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: State of Confusion!!!
2018 C2 of Year Winner
I'm assuming you can use the same pressure plate?? I have a new clutch that the fine folks at Keisler threw in as a bonus for their Black Friday special, so I was just going to replace the flywheel while I was in there.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,726
Likes: 558
From: Seattle Washington
I don't recomend a Aluminum Flywheel I had one for about a 100 Miles and Switched to a Steel one. But there is more to it then that. I had a Mcleod Street Twin Clutch wich as increadably high pedal pressure and very graby engagement. Both of wich make for lousy street manors and the lighter flywheel was the worst thing I could have. I now have a Lightweight Steel Flywheel and a Spec Super Twin Clutch wich has light Pedal Pressure and is very progresive in Engagement. I also have my Hydaulic Throwout Bearing issues sorted out and finnaly have a very long and difficult part of my project done. ( now that there is a Foot of Snow) Feel free to ask more I'd be glad to steer anyone away from the mistakes I made.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,040
Likes: 105
From: State of Confusion!!!
2018 C2 of Year Winner
How much weight savings is in a lightweight steel unit?? Is it worth doing?? I feel there is plenty of power in my setup, and with 3.73's there is plenty of quick revs also!!
I'm not looking to do anything just for the sake of being able to claim I have it in the car. If there are benifits, while the car is apart, I would put in the proper pieces to improve performance.
I'm not looking to do anything just for the sake of being able to claim I have it in the car. If there are benifits, while the car is apart, I would put in the proper pieces to improve performance.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I don't recomend a Aluminum Flywheel I had one for about a 100 Miles and Switched to a Steel one. But there is more to it then that. I had a Mcleod Street Twin Clutch wich as increadably high pedal pressure and very graby engagement. Both of wich make for lousy street manors and the lighter flywheel was the worst thing I could have. I now have a Lightweight Steel Flywheel and a Spec Super Twin Clutch wich has light Pedal Pressure and is very progresive in Engagement. I also have my Hydaulic Throwout Bearing issues sorted out and finnaly have a very long and difficult part of my project done. ( now that there is a Foot of Snow) Feel free to ask more I'd be glad to steer anyone away from the mistakes I made.
It sounds like by your clutch setup you are running some serious HP levels. When you get up into the high HP numbers 700 or above all things are different in the clutch system. Glad you are getting it worked out.
My steel wheel was 30 pounds, my aluminum one is 14 pounds so yes there is quite a difference. You will notice a difference from one to the other. The steel one will work fine but the aluminum will take some weight off the rotating mass therefore spin it up faster.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
How much weight savings is in a lightweight steel unit?? Is it worth doing?? I feel there is plenty of power in my setup, and with 3.73's there is plenty of quick revs also!!
I'm not looking to do anything just for the sake of being able to claim I have it in the car. If there are benifits, while the car is apart, I would put in the proper pieces to improve performance.
I'm not looking to do anything just for the sake of being able to claim I have it in the car. If there are benifits, while the car is apart, I would put in the proper pieces to improve performance.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 156
From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
How much weight savings is in a lightweight steel unit?? Is it worth doing?? I feel there is plenty of power in my setup, and with 3.73's there is plenty of quick revs also!!
I'm not looking to do anything just for the sake of being able to claim I have it in the car. If there are benifits, while the car is apart, I would put in the proper pieces to improve performance.
I'm not looking to do anything just for the sake of being able to claim I have it in the car. If there are benifits, while the car is apart, I would put in the proper pieces to improve performance.
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Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,726
Likes: 558
From: Seattle Washington
That sounds more like a clutch problem than a flywheel problem. You have gone to a lightweight setup since the problems and they seem to have gone away. I went with a light flywheel and kept my Centerforce DF clutch and just swapped everything over. The clutch grabbed just the same as before. The only difference is it takes a few more revs or just getting into the throttle slightly more to get the car moving from a stop. Now this is under normal driving. If I want to get into it I can't tell the difference.
It sounds like by your clutch setup you are running some serious HP levels. When you get up into the high HP numbers 700 or above all things are different in the clutch system. Glad you are getting it worked out.
My steel wheel was 30 pounds, my aluminum one is 14 pounds so yes there is quite a difference. You will notice a difference from one to the other. The steel one will work fine but the aluminum will take some weight off the rotating mass therefore spin it up faster.
It sounds like by your clutch setup you are running some serious HP levels. When you get up into the high HP numbers 700 or above all things are different in the clutch system. Glad you are getting it worked out.
My steel wheel was 30 pounds, my aluminum one is 14 pounds so yes there is quite a difference. You will notice a difference from one to the other. The steel one will work fine but the aluminum will take some weight off the rotating mass therefore spin it up faster.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
1/3 lighter than 30 is 20 pounds
1/3 heavier than 15 pounds is 20 pounds.
What kind of power are you running?
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,726
Likes: 558
From: Seattle Washington
Well I have a 400 CI Smallblock with Two Turbo's at 8 PSI so that should put me in the 750 HP range. Should the need for speed require more I can Intercool and Turn the Boost up to 22 psi and that should double things.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
The light weight flywheel is only a small part of the total rotating weight
typical small block 8 inch damper is 8-10 pounds. The crank is 48 - 58 pounds depending on main journal size. Stock flywheels are 30 or 40 pounds. Then the clutch and pressure plate weight. Add in timing chain, Cam, dist, rods, and pistons and you have 140+ pounds of rotating mass in front of the tranny. This not including the alternator and fan weight if you have one.
Big block chevy add 20+ pounds in just the crank, rods, pistons.
I used the small journal 42# crank, small 6.250 inch damper, billet steel here and there.
So big block can get away with the lightest fly wheels and not even have a driveabilty problem of a small block
typical small block 8 inch damper is 8-10 pounds. The crank is 48 - 58 pounds depending on main journal size. Stock flywheels are 30 or 40 pounds. Then the clutch and pressure plate weight. Add in timing chain, Cam, dist, rods, and pistons and you have 140+ pounds of rotating mass in front of the tranny. This not including the alternator and fan weight if you have one.
Big block chevy add 20+ pounds in just the crank, rods, pistons.
I used the small journal 42# crank, small 6.250 inch damper, billet steel here and there.
So big block can get away with the lightest fly wheels and not even have a driveabilty problem of a small block
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,040
Likes: 105
From: State of Confusion!!!
2018 C2 of Year Winner
A OEM 454 correctly balanced 15 lb high performance nodular iron wheel is available from GM, part # 3963537 the flywheel ID #3935411. It uses a 10.4 disc and pressure plate. Its ring gear outside diameter is 12.1/4 in. and is the 454 equivalent to the L88 15 lb high performance wheel.
Will that accept the pressure plate that is in there now, or will I need to upgrade that also?? I don't think I will need to go with a crazy clutch setup, because I am only running about 440hp...at least that is what "The General" claims!!!
