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Caliper or Master?

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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 09:54 AM
  #1  
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Default Caliper or Master?

Rebuilt driver front caliper (piston came out while off rotor for other work). Have bleed front brakes 3 times and warning light still comes on. It will reset but comes back with next hard brake. Verified it is not e-brake and wire is on sensor good. My guess is something wrong with caliper rebuild (but no visible leaks) or master went bad due to fluid being drained. It was several days between caliper removed and ordered parts coming in.

Any way to troubleshoot farther or just take a guess and R&R one of them? Asked local mechanic who said "I don't rebuild those calipers, I just replace them".
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 12:15 PM
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Bleed master cylinder.
Bleed right front, then left.

If the master cylinder actually bled dry (both reservoirs), you will have to bleed all four calipers.

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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 04:22 PM
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Default not both

Only the front reservoir went dry, only the driver front caliper was removed. Rear system should have not changed should it?


Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Bleed master cylinder.
Bleed right front, then left.

If the master cylinder actually bled dry (both reservoirs), you will have to bleed all four calipers.


Last edited by dburgjohn; Dec 29, 2008 at 04:41 PM. Reason: add txt
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 01:35 PM
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Default anyone?

does anyone have any further ideas besides making a guess and buying a part?
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 03:00 PM
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Default Ok, so...

would anyone like to weigh in on which part I should R&R first?
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 05:20 PM
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Bleed master cylinder. Mine did this awhile ago
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 05:29 PM
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As Dogboy said, try bleeding the master cylinder.. you said the front reservoir went dry, but one did go dry...if you have air in your master cylinder it will greatly reduce your fluid pressure, you need to bench bleed it. for this you can just plug the two holes of the MC or you can attach a hose to it pointed back into the reservoir. If you do it on your car, depress the brake pedal extreamly slow repeadly untill no more bubbles appear when the brake is depressed, also the car/MC must be level when you do this. If you take the MC off your car...make sure it is kept level and use a blunt object to depress the plunger just 3/4 an inch until no bubbles appear.

Note...when you disconnect the lines to the MC you will need to bleed all four calipers... Right Rear, Left Rear, Front Right, Front Left

Good Luck!
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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you still have a bubble in there somewhere. The switch turns on the light when there is a pressure imballance below the block, its there so its got to come out. Before spending $$ on parts get a big can of brake fluid and get after it.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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Yep, keep bleeding. My light kept coming on after replacing the calipers. I just kept bleeding the system until it finally stayed off.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 06:01 PM
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Default bubble must be

the air must be in the front of the MC. does anyone here know if I can lower the front end to level the MC on the car? I really don't want to risk twisting off the rear bleeders if I don't have to.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dburgjohn
the air must be in the front of the MC. does anyone here know if I can lower the front end to level the MC on the car? I really don't want to risk twisting off the rear bleeders if I don't have to.
Only one way to properly/fully bleed the master cylinder. On the bench.

Remove master cylinder and bench bleed until no evidence of air. Trying to bleed the master on the car, will lead you to .

The light will continue to illuminate as long as you have air the master.
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