74 Burglar Alarm
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
74 Burglar Alarm
Ok I need some expert opinions. I recently reconnected a wire that wasn't connected to the switch on the burglar alarm. I turned the key and for a couple of times it worked and the alarm went off. Then on the last couple it seemed to not work when something was opened. Tried all switches so I figure if it worked once that means at least 1 is still functional. But when I turn the key you can hear the solenoid getting power. Same with turning it off, you can hear it click.
My question is, can the problem be just the solenoid being shot? Btw, the alarm was broken for about 25+ years... the compartment where the solenoid was housed was also a little flooded too. The water didn't get to anything electrical but I suspect vapors could have . What should I replace here? Thanks!
My question is, can the problem be just the solenoid being shot? Btw, the alarm was broken for about 25+ years... the compartment where the solenoid was housed was also a little flooded too. The water didn't get to anything electrical but I suspect vapors could have . What should I replace here? Thanks!
Last edited by 21boy; 01-04-2009 at 10:23 PM.
#3
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
The car can get closer to the screen when the temperature goes up about 10 degrees and I feel like fighting with the digital camera to actually take a picture..
Thought I explained pretty well, when I turn the key on the (1974) burglar alarm I get a clicking noise from under the left most storage container by where the jack is kept. Below the jack (closer to the seat) there are 2 metal canisters. They click when the alarm is turned on. There was water in this compartment but I don't know if that effects it much or not they where never touched but water does evaporate. The whole system worked a couple of times then all I got was clicking from these devices.
Assuming that at least one of the door alarms still work and there's electric going through the system when you turn the key, should I replace those 2 devices by the car jack or look at something else?
Hope that's more specific but I'm not very familiar with this system and I'm not sure what else needs to be known to help.. Suggestions welcome.
Thought I explained pretty well, when I turn the key on the (1974) burglar alarm I get a clicking noise from under the left most storage container by where the jack is kept. Below the jack (closer to the seat) there are 2 metal canisters. They click when the alarm is turned on. There was water in this compartment but I don't know if that effects it much or not they where never touched but water does evaporate. The whole system worked a couple of times then all I got was clicking from these devices.
Assuming that at least one of the door alarms still work and there's electric going through the system when you turn the key, should I replace those 2 devices by the car jack or look at something else?
Hope that's more specific but I'm not very familiar with this system and I'm not sure what else needs to be known to help.. Suggestions welcome.
Last edited by 21boy; 01-05-2009 at 02:10 AM.
#5
Race Director
When the clicking is taking place that usually means the detection part of the system is working-in other words the alarm is trying to sound and it is shutting off.
When the click happens the relay is supplying the alarm horn with a ground-the horn is supposed to be hot all the time that the alarm key is on-so when the horn gets a ground through a standard turn signal flasher it should beep beep beep.Check to make sure the horn has power,then make sure the horn still works.The metal base of the horn is mounted on fiberglass insulated from ground-there is a wire attached to the metal base and is grounded by the relay and flasher the 2 metal canisters you found by the jack.
When the click happens the relay is supplying the alarm horn with a ground-the horn is supposed to be hot all the time that the alarm key is on-so when the horn gets a ground through a standard turn signal flasher it should beep beep beep.Check to make sure the horn has power,then make sure the horn still works.The metal base of the horn is mounted on fiberglass insulated from ground-there is a wire attached to the metal base and is grounded by the relay and flasher the 2 metal canisters you found by the jack.
Last edited by ...Roger...; 01-05-2009 at 08:45 AM.
#12
Team Owner
#15
Burning Brakes
The car can get closer to the screen when the temperature goes up about 10 degrees and I feel like fighting with the digital camera to actually take a picture..
Thought I explained pretty well, when I turn the key on the (1974) burglar alarm I get a clicking noise from under the left most storage container by where the jack is kept. Below the jack (closer to the seat) there are 2 metal canisters. They click when the alarm is turned on. There was water in this compartment but I don't know if that effects it much or not they where never touched but water does evaporate. The whole system worked a couple of times then all I got was clicking from these devices.
Assuming that at least one of the door alarms still work and there's electric going through the system when you turn the key, should I replace those 2 devices by the car jack or look at something else?
Hope that's more specific but I'm not very familiar with this system and I'm not sure what else needs to be known to help.. Suggestions welcome.
Thought I explained pretty well, when I turn the key on the (1974) burglar alarm I get a clicking noise from under the left most storage container by where the jack is kept. Below the jack (closer to the seat) there are 2 metal canisters. They click when the alarm is turned on. There was water in this compartment but I don't know if that effects it much or not they where never touched but water does evaporate. The whole system worked a couple of times then all I got was clicking from these devices.
Assuming that at least one of the door alarms still work and there's electric going through the system when you turn the key, should I replace those 2 devices by the car jack or look at something else?
Hope that's more specific but I'm not very familiar with this system and I'm not sure what else needs to be known to help.. Suggestions welcome.
First off, if one of the door switches or hood switch is defective the alarm won't work. You said it worked a couple times, so the switches should be ok.
Sometime that alarm relay sticks located inside the Jack storage area. Tap on it lightly with a small screw driver handle to see if it frees up and the alarm sounds. It happened once to me. If your alarm horn worked once for you then your wiring should be ok from what you describe. If tapping on the relay doesn't work it could be faulty. To make sure it's not your horn sticking, it's easy to remove just one bolt. It's up in the left fender well as mentioned above. There is a ground wire attached, to the mounting bolt. Once you lower the horn carefully unplug the wire that is plugged into it. Clean the wire connector and clean the area on the mounting bracket. Now get two wires and test it with a 12 volt battery. Positive to the wire plug on the horn and negative to the mounting bracket. If it sounds you know it's your relay. If the horns doesn't sound and it just makes a dead sound like it's trying to you can turn that little adjusting screw carefully in an out if you can get it loose. This takes some doing, because it has to be just right to sound the horn with the correct tone.If it ends up being your rear door jamb switches your in for some fun!
Let us know,
Regards,
Jimmy
Last edited by Tooch1; 09-23-2016 at 10:52 PM.