Thanks Tom and 1982 RedCorvette.
I am about to follow and check all grounds, and the ecm fuse. I kinda think the ecm still is working as the engine has all fuel and spark, so the ecm has output of some kind. I have checked wiring with a constant power check, and all seems fine. Jim recommended checking earths, will get to that this avo. Will let you guys know what the fault is when I find it.
Otherwise a carby, airgap manifold etc is going on, with a little port work to the heads, kinda tempting actually. Will certainly get back to you

 

Have you tried putting a meter on the wire that feeds the engine light bulb on the dash? If your scanner is picking up the codes you know the ECM is storing them. Maybe the problem lies in the wire or the connector (on ecm and/or circuit board on center cluster).

Jim

 

If the CTS does not do it check for a vaccum leak around the plate the TBI's are on.

One more thing. The car will have a high idle if you disconnected the IAC's or power to them. They will no reset unless you drive the car at about 35 mph for a mile or two. If this is the case and you look down where the IAC pin is seated you will see that they are not moving. But if they are...back to a gasket leak.

Jim

 

Hi again Jim
I have tried everything as you recommended. I have pulled out the ecm, opened it, no burnt smell, nothing is obviously fried. Checked wiring, in particular all earths. All plugs and constant power is OK. The TBI's are tight, all vacuum leads ok. Front TBI has a fuel leak from the shaft which holds the butterfy. Put back together, Cranked engine, sounded like an attempt to start but didnt, battery now flat, connected a jumper, good cranking this time but no attempt to start. Gave up, got battery on charge. Has spark, has fuel, has me baffled. Richard

 

Just reading some of your posts. Have you ever got it to run at all? If so how long?

I would like to see if it runs at all. disconnect the electrical connectors to the two injectors. Pour gas down the the tbi's. Will it run?

Can you take some picutres of the engine compartment with the air cleaner off?

Jim

 

Look at the two videos below. What do mean by dumping fuel? Maybe what you see is normal. The injectors should spray a continuous cone pattern. What you see is much different then a carb car. If you are getting gas and have spark it should start for some length of time. Try taking the injectors out of the equation as I suggested in the previous post. Pour some gas down through each and crank the car. Does it start at all? If it doesnt' start can you tell me what the oil pressure is at while cranking. There is an oil pressure sensor on the driverside on the block near the distributor but lower its bell shaped. If it does not sense oil pressure it will tell the car to cut out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxQsPwVznSU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yf9YwNo6HOc

 

I have been following this thread and I noticed that no one has mentioned the distributor. If he has fuel, air, spark and compression it should spudder but if the timing is way off for some reason it will result in the same way. Something else to think about, If the timing is way off it will not produce a code in the ECM. So what I would suggest it too twist that dist. a few degrees (fore and aft) and see if it fires.

 

Is it possible you have gotten bad or contaminated fuel?

Andy

 

I'm about a quarter *** mechanic. I used do most regular repairs but when it gets to all that smog control and computerized stuff i hate to admit it but i suck so i take it to the dealer.
Clint Eastwood said in a movie once "a man has to know his limitations".
If a guy is screwing around with things that he doesn't understand ya go through a bunch money and could make things worse.
I've changed water pumps, transmissions and allot of stuff since 68 but when i get to the point like this guy either tow it some way and get it to a good mechanic.
Allot of you guys are excellent mechanics and have a hell of allot more experience that i ever dreamed of but this guy needs professional help.
Whoever designed all this electronic crap that is made to fail and drive us crazy needs a good smack unless they give you a good good manual so a person can trouble shoot this crap.
Good luck buddy, been there done that.

 

Once you understand it, the CFI becomes easier to work on. Ofcoarse the tricks of the trade become a big help!

 

Jim.
Cone shaped spray occurs, enough to quarter fill TBI bowls in 10 secs. Unplugged all harness (4) in bay, cranked engine, no start, had gas in from previous cranking (is that enough). OiL pressure rises while cranking to a good pressure. Checked inside distributor, small mount of corrision present on alloy base, small rust of rotor screw.
I have been on night shift, so my own ecm struggles to concentrate. I think I will need to double check the spark in more than one plug. What was interesting is that the cel came on when unplugged harness, didnt do it on second repeat of process. Also, a clicking came from an electrical part, has rubber line to carbon cannister.
Guys, I am amazed at the responses to this thread, I am on the other side of the globe, thanks again for all your input.

 

Disconnect the connectors to the fuel injectors. Are you still getting fuel? See if you can get it to crank dry....no fuel. Then pour a bit a fuel down each throttle body. The car should start and run smooth for a few seconds.

That electical part opens and closes the passage to the purge canister. Its part of the emission control. I have never heard mine clicking. Just eliminate it for now. I believe the hose going to it comes from the PCV valve. Is your PCV valve good? Hard to check if you can't get the motor to run. I would unplug the hose to the PCV on the intake and plug it for now. That purge solenoid should look identical to the one thats on the other otherside going to the EGR.

Maybe you are not getting proper spark. You must eliminate the injectors. Unplug them crank until there is no fuel. The injectors should not spray or drip when unplugged. Once dry pour a bit of gas in there. Let me know if it starts. If it doesn't it suggests to look at a spark issue.

Jim

 

Hello again Jim. I have disconnected harness, no spray of fuel, cranked until dry, poured fuel into TBI's, still no start (about 1/4 inch full each). I crossed a plug lead with a screw driver to the exh manifold, there was light flash (blueish), had to turn off lights to see it clearly. Stripped distributor, cleaned rotor and cap points, some corrosion within, not much, cleaned all plugs within dizzy. Checked all wires to dizzy, appear fine. Still no start, battery is in poor condition now, I am using a 900amp jumper. Not even an attempt to fire. When harness disconnected CEL comes on. When connected, spray pattern is good, but it does not pulse.

 

Pic

 

Did you try to post a picture?

Anyway. Doesn't sound fuel related. It should have started even for just a few seconds. That flash should be bright and strong.

Concentrate on the dizzy. Aside from the the cap and rotor there are three other things in the distributor.

You have the coil in the top of the cap. Look at it. make sure it is not burnt or melted. there should be a ground strap attached to the one side. Critical...make sure its there.

You will notice wires going in through the passengerside of the distributor. They go to one part....on the passengerside of the distributor that part is plugged into the module which is to the driverside of the distributor. Make sure those wires are not skinned or burnt. The one part is only about $30. The module is about $100.

On the other side of the distributor cap there are two plugs. One is for the battery.The other is the tach terminal. The car will not fire right if those two plugs do not have a wires going to them. If you have spark. While cranking the engine (you will need help) probe the following wires.Check the voltage on the battery terminal wire at the distributor it should be 7 volts or more while cranking. If its under 7 volts it may be the module. If you have over 7 volts there check the voltage on the other wire marked "tach" at the distributor. If the voltage is under 1 volt the coil is bad. It should be over 10 volts if its good while cranking.

I think it will either be the wires in the dizzy or the module or the coil causing your problem. Just a guess though...try the above tests.

Jim

 

clean all spark plugs .unplug injectors .check for spark [i use a old spark plug]if all is good try a shot of starting fluid then try starting it .if this does not work i would check, just so that i know check the timing chain

 

You should get a Corvette Shop manual it will make things easy.


I have a somewhat burnt coil and I think what is a good module which i could lend to you. I changed both. The engine did work with these two old parts so I know if you swap mine in for yours it should start if they are the problem. My car did run with them before I changed them but not great so i don't know if they were the cause of the problem i was chasing. I don't know if the parts would be good enough to keep the car running but you at least could eliminate the guessing. I could lend them to you to try. These parts are about $250 for the pair. I could mail them to you. You can try one and then the other and at least know if you need to buy either. Let me know if you would like me to send them. Send me a PM with your address If you would like to try them. I want the parts back though....

Jim

 

I have sent a PM to you.