Strut rod end question
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2006
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Strut rod end question
Ok, so i've heard a lot about the benefits of using heim joint ends on the strut rods because of the 3d movement of the strut rod ends. to look into this further, i did some quick math on the subject. with 3" of compression and 3" of droop, the traditional end links are treated to only somewhere between .007" and .011" (i dont have all the measurements of the parts, so these are rough) of compression of the bushings. This seems like a small amount, so i'm wondering if there have actually been a lot of problems with rubber/poly ends that would drive a move to heims or if it's simply a case of paranoia or maybe just a case of appreciating the aesthetics? or is it just for the (probably slightly) tighter feel of the heim joints?
further, yes, i understand that when the bushing is only .25" thick, 7 thousanths is a fair proportion, but my understanding is that poly has that sort of "give" available.
-jeff
further, yes, i understand that when the bushing is only .25" thick, 7 thousanths is a fair proportion, but my understanding is that poly has that sort of "give" available.
-jeff
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 7
From: Beringen
The problem is both the movement and the flex that bushings give (with exceptions of urethane). If you take a look at the bushings that are there for some time, you will see that alle the rubber is pratically crushed, which make me suspect that it is not only the third movement of the member that creates this but also pressure from the side.
Urethane is a pretty sticky kind of plastic, which creates problems with rotational movement on them as we all know.
Urethane is a pretty sticky kind of plastic, which creates problems with rotational movement on them as we all know.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
What are you using the car for? The stock rubber bushings are fine for cruising, the occasional auto cross, and the actual driving abilities of most of us.
If you want to get into some serious driving where actual bushing flex might hamper performance, then you may want to consider paying the bucks for poly or heims or something more elaborate.
If you want to get into some serious driving where actual bushing flex might hamper performance, then you may want to consider paying the bucks for poly or heims or something more elaborate.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 548
Likes: 0
What are you using the car for? The stock rubber bushings are fine for cruising, the occasional auto cross, and the actual driving abilities of most of us.
If you want to get into some serious driving where actual bushing flex might hamper performance, then you may want to consider paying the bucks for poly or heims or something more elaborate.
If you want to get into some serious driving where actual bushing flex might hamper performance, then you may want to consider paying the bucks for poly or heims or something more elaborate.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,000
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, Mn USA
I just ordered the Hiem adjustables from VPB. We'll see how their durability is on my street driven Vette. I do almost daily driving during the spring-summer-fall months
I shyed away from poly as they usually make noise and I just dont want that for the car. If the heim fail on me quickly, then Ill bite the bullet and buy poly ended struts to be done with it. I think the struts move in 2 planes though, which makes poly an non preferable material for the job.
Thought I would give the hiems a shot. The 3 diff mounts are poly (no suspension movement) and the OEM FE7 sway bar is rubber for the moment along with the rebuilt trailing arm bushings.
My VPB R&P steering has hiems in the center section with no issues so far.
B.
I shyed away from poly as they usually make noise and I just dont want that for the car. If the heim fail on me quickly, then Ill bite the bullet and buy poly ended struts to be done with it. I think the struts move in 2 planes though, which makes poly an non preferable material for the job.
Thought I would give the hiems a shot. The 3 diff mounts are poly (no suspension movement) and the OEM FE7 sway bar is rubber for the moment along with the rebuilt trailing arm bushings.
My VPB R&P steering has hiems in the center section with no issues so far.
B.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 548
Likes: 0
I just ordered the Hiem adjustables from VPB. We'll see how their durability is on my street driven Vette. I do almost daily driving during the spring-summer-fall months
I shyed away from poly as they usually make noise and I just dont want that for the car. If the heim fail on me quickly, then Ill bite the bullet and buy poly ended struts to be done with it. I think the struts move in 2 planes though, which makes poly an non preferable material for the job.
Thought I would give the hiems a shot. The 3 diff mounts are poly (no suspension movement) and the OEM FE7 sway bar is rubber for the moment along with the rebuilt trailing arm bushings.
My VPB R&P steering has hiems in the center section with no issues so far.
B.
I shyed away from poly as they usually make noise and I just dont want that for the car. If the heim fail on me quickly, then Ill bite the bullet and buy poly ended struts to be done with it. I think the struts move in 2 planes though, which makes poly an non preferable material for the job.
Thought I would give the hiems a shot. The 3 diff mounts are poly (no suspension movement) and the OEM FE7 sway bar is rubber for the moment along with the rebuilt trailing arm bushings.
My VPB R&P steering has hiems in the center section with no issues so far.
B.
if it fails, i guess i'll home-brew a heim end for the existing rods.
