Hooker Headers/Sidepipes: General and w/ Steeroids?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 1
From: Potomac Falls VA
Hooker Headers/Sidepipes: General and w/ Steeroids?
I have my car up inthe kwiklift and getting into my winter projects. One of them is replacing my current dual, rear exit exhaust with Hooker Sidepipes.
Any general issues, tips, etc with installing them on my 73? I read somewhere I might need to dimple the drivers side.
Any additional issues with the fitting the hooker headers/sidepipes in a car which also has the steeroids power steering conversion?
Thanks
Shane
Any general issues, tips, etc with installing them on my 73? I read somewhere I might need to dimple the drivers side.
Any additional issues with the fitting the hooker headers/sidepipes in a car which also has the steeroids power steering conversion?
Thanks
Shane
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 1
From: Potomac Falls VA
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,590
Likes: 403
From: Nashville TN
St. Jude Donor '09
I didn't have to dimple any pipes when I installed on my '76. Biggest problem for me was the passenger's side on with the A/C compressor. My only suggestion would be to make sure you get all the header bolts started before you start tighening them down. I also used allen head screws because I could not get enough grip on the stock bolts, especially for the A/C mounting bracket. Use high temp loctite to keep the bolts from backing out.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 1
From: Potomac Falls VA
I didn't have to dimple any pipes when I installed on my '76. Biggest problem for me was the passenger's side on with the A/C compressor. My only suggestion would be to make sure you get all the header bolts started before you start tighening them down. I also used allen head screws because I could not get enough grip on the stock bolts, especially for the A/C mounting bracket. Use high temp loctite to keep the bolts from backing out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,772
Likes: 694
From: Maryland
St. Jude Donor '05, '09, '15
Man it's ugly down there. Someone needs to do some refurbishing!
Anyway. It's pretty hard to see but here is what I took. I will also tell you I was having binding problems with the column when I first installed the kit. I had to take as much angle out of all the joints I could. I actually cut the steering shaft about an inch to reduce the angles on the joints.
Anyway. It's pretty hard to see but here is what I took. I will also tell you I was having binding problems with the column when I first installed the kit. I had to take as much angle out of all the joints I could. I actually cut the steering shaft about an inch to reduce the angles on the joints.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 1
From: Potomac Falls VA
Man it's ugly down there. Someone needs to do some refurbishing!
Anyway. It's pretty hard to see but here is what I took. I will also tell you I was having binding problems with the column when I first installed the kit. I had to take as much angle out of all the joints I could. I actually cut the steering shaft about an inch to reduce the angles on the joints.
Anyway. It's pretty hard to see but here is what I took. I will also tell you I was having binding problems with the column when I first installed the kit. I had to take as much angle out of all the joints I could. I actually cut the steering shaft about an inch to reduce the angles on the joints.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,772
Likes: 694
From: Maryland
St. Jude Donor '05, '09, '15
I used a large diameter impact socket maybe 1 1/4" and put it on a long extension. I used the extension as a handle, set the socket on the pipe where I wanted the clearance and hit the socket on the side with a hammer. It took a few trys but ultimately it left a nice curved shape without a kink or crack. I can't remember if I heated it with a propane torch or not. Seems like I did but I really can't remember. It's been a while and I have lousy memory. Expect to damage the finish and be pleasantly surprised if you don't. I did this with the headers and rack in the car. Obviously I took the steering shaft out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 44
From: Macon, GA
Sky65 is correct. You will have to dimple the drivers side #1 header tube to make clearance for the steering shaft. You PM'ed a buddy of mine (SLVR76) about his install. We did that job at my house and it more aggravating than hard. We had to mock everything up and pull it all back out a couple of times to make the dimple since we didn't want to just bash it in. You will have to use a torch and get it cherry red (his headers were stainless). I like the idea of using a socket to make a smooth dent, but we used a ball peen hammer. Once we were done, you can not see the dimple unless you know it's there.
We had to udjust the u-joints over and over and over again to get all the binding out. You'll damage the rack if it's binding too much.
Also, you will not be able to install the headers on a Kwik Lift unless you also put the car on jack stands. You have to angle the headers way down to get them up in there. This is how high we had his car off the ground:
We had to udjust the u-joints over and over and over again to get all the binding out. You'll damage the rack if it's binding too much.
Also, you will not be able to install the headers on a Kwik Lift unless you also put the car on jack stands. You have to angle the headers way down to get them up in there. This is how high we had his car off the ground:
Last edited by sperkins; Jan 16, 2009 at 11:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 1
From: Potomac Falls VA
Sky65 is correct. You will have to dimple the drivers side #1 header tube to make clearance for the steering shaft. You PM'ed a buddy of mine (SLVR76) about his install. We did that job at my house and it more aggravating than hard. We had to mock everything up and pull it all back out a couple of times to make the dimple since we didn't want to just bash it in. You will have to use a torch and get it cherry red (his headers were stainless). I like the idea of using a socket to make a smooth dent, but we used a ball peen hammer. Once we were done, you can not see the dimple unless you know it's there.
We had to udjust the u-joints over and over and over again to get all the binding out. You'll damage the rack if it's binding too much.
Also, you will not be able to install the headers on a Kwik Lift unless you also put the car on jack stands. You have to angle the headers way down to get them up in there. This is how high we had his car off the ground:
We had to udjust the u-joints over and over and over again to get all the binding out. You'll damage the rack if it's binding too much.
Also, you will not be able to install the headers on a Kwik Lift unless you also put the car on jack stands. You have to angle the headers way down to get them up in there. This is how high we had his car off the ground:
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Freeport FL
I have my car up inthe kwiklift and getting into my winter projects. One of them is replacing my current dual, rear exit exhaust with Hooker Sidepipes.
Any general issues, tips, etc with installing them on my 73? I read somewhere I might need to dimple the drivers side.
Any additional issues with the fitting the hooker headers/sidepipes in a car which also has the steeroids power steering conversion?
Thanks
Shane
Any general issues, tips, etc with installing them on my 73? I read somewhere I might need to dimple the drivers side.
Any additional issues with the fitting the hooker headers/sidepipes in a car which also has the steeroids power steering conversion?
Thanks
Shane
Re bolts: Yes, start all before tightening. Yes, spring for the ones with allen socket heads. Additionally a wrench (7/16) heated with a torch and bent into a 90* angle with a slight twist in it is well worth your time to fabricate. I did not use loctite, I used teflon gel to prevent galling from stel bolts into my aluminum heads. Intrestingly enough, I saw some allen head bolts at um....Autozone I think, that had safety wire holes in them if you are worried about them backing out. I think they were made by Spectre. If mine back out I will go this route. I am not putting steel bolts into aluminum heads without tef-gel.
Also be sure to use anti-seize where pipes go onto collectors if you want to have any chance at all of removing them later.
Last edited by Droshki; Jan 17, 2009 at 10:33 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,526
Likes: 99
From: Apache Junction, Arizona
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I didn't have to dimple any pipes when I installed on my '76. Biggest problem for me was the passenger's side on with the A/C compressor. My only suggestion would be to make sure you get all the header bolts started before you start tighening them down. I also used allen head screws because I could not get enough grip on the stock bolts, especially for the A/C mounting bracket. Use high temp loctite to keep the bolts from backing out.
This was with the built 355 Dart Alloy Head small block. I was probabally chocking it with the other system.
