79 with zero voltage from alterator?
Fusible link? Help
Thanks
TommyJ
You tried 2 alt. with same result? It's possible you got 2 bad alt. but, that seems unlikely.
I would double check the easy stuff 1st. Wire connections plug into. alt., tight belt. I went thru the same thing and the wire connection into alt. was not quite snug.
I don't know about 79 but on 76 there are fuse links that are under the brake MC that are fairly easy to spot.
Good luck

The test at Autozone is with a complete wiring system like the one on the car.
I see this at the store I work at. (Not A Z)
Test show the alternator working, problem is with the car wiring.
Yes the regulator is in the alternator.
Check all the wires, fuseable links and fuses.
Battery voltage should always be at the large lug on the alternator, if not, trace the wire back and all the way to the source...
Good Luck
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Reason being I said this is I had the exact same deal. Mine was as simple as a burned out bulb on the alternator light. It wasn't making resistance to tell the alternator to charge.
look up durango boys alt upgrade paper here, it talks more about the gen light and the need for a resistor
I have also seen a situation on a 1981 vette where the bolt holding the fuse panel together on the firewall worked loose. This caused a bad connection, which did not allow the alternator to charge the battery.
On the back of the alternator you have the large red wire, this is the charge wire. On the top you have two wires that plug in. I’m not sure of the color I don’t have a schematic on this here. On older cars the wire was black with a white stripe on the 79 it’s probably different. However, you should have 12 volts on one of these wires, if you don’t you may find this to be your problem.
Willcox Inc.
I put a rebuilt alt on my 70 and when I started my car I was looking at the amp meter, it pegged to the right and then centered. No more charging.The fusable link wire burned into just like it was designed to do and saved my wiring. I did not keep this alt.
with car running the voltage at the bat. terminal on back of the alt. was 3-6v, jumping around. pulled alt. and went to orielly auto., they checked it and said it showed good,
what the heck, yeah it was putting out voltage, but nowhere near enough, i bought a rebuilt 63amp one, installed it, checked the bat. terminal on the back while running and it showed 14.2 volts. fixed, and we noticed the volt meter inside on the console was showing just above 13volts, it has never read that high before since we've had it, you may have 2 bad rebuilt ones.!!! who knows?
the other two read what??? the red one on the connector should be reading about same as the stud at all times, engine running or not, key on or off....
now with engine/key off the other color into the reg should read zero volts, and with key ON engine running or NOT, should read about the same as the other red wires....
try revving the engine a good bit say 3000 rpm and see if that triggers the alt to start putting out.....if not, and the above desired conditions are met, you do in fact have good batter/system voltage on all 3 points, even IF it's lo....and you can't get it to charge, you got a bad alternator or POSSIBLE a bad wire connection in that plug to the regulator, and so the alt is not in fact getting voltage, when we think it is....
move them wires around a good bit with long nose pliars and monitor the ouput of the alt, engine running.....last chance saloon there....
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