Budman68

Next weekend a few members will be heading over to help me build my new 327. Actually the motor is a no brainer, this is just another reason get together and drink some beer.

Below is some pics of the future build and specs.
327 #678 dated block punched .30
KB 11 to 1 pistons
Stock rods
Steel crank
Voodoo cam kit with fuel injection specs. (Forward thinking if gas goes up to $4 again)
65 double hump head with 1.94/1.50. Might punch those out. I like these because of the lack of acc. holes.
Comp roller rockers
Single gear timing chain.

This is just going to be a drive motor, that will hold up to some heavy rev'ing.

Just thought I would share some pics.

68 replacement block.
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KB157 pistons
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Steel crank
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A shot of the block with the cleaned up heads. They still need to be rebuild.
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I will definely post assembly pics and break end videos as it progresses.

Little Mouse

If you want the heads right don't let them knurl the guides, use
over size stem valves.

Budman68

Yep, they suggested that would be the best route.

Little Mouse

I mean don't let them use either one pay the money for bronze guides if you want it to last. Bronze guides were created for the small block chevy they were the worst of the worst on valve guide wear.

TimAT

The only thing I've seen that was tougher on valve guides is a Ford truck. I've seen guides worn so bad a 30k miles they wouldn't idle.

Budman68

Tim,
How do you like my building? I'll be up in a few weeks, but only for the day. To dang cold up there.
Buddy

Budman68

I'm going to let them be the judge. This guy builds some nice stuff. $15,000 Big block motors and a lot of high rev'ing dirt track engines. The one thing I have learned over the years, is not to tell an expert how to do his job.

I would assume he will replace the guides and valves since they are original.

BLOCKMAN

I have heated alot of rods for press fit applications but have never seen rods where some one put that much heat to them.

cardo0

That engine would be a lot of fun and a budget rebuild too.
Where did u get that crank Bud? Is it the stock piece? Large journal?

cardo0

Little Mouse

If it needs guides you can knurl it for nothing in cost but it won't last or do it right put in bronze guides. You have the 194/150 valves there will be less chance of a crack in the head between the valve seats.

JB cook in the 70s had a 10,000 sq ft machine shop two crankshaft
grinding machines they only used one crank machine the other one
was used in the 60s when they had so much work they had two shifts rebuilding engines.

Budman68

It's a large journal that came in the 68 motor. The motor looked pretty nice when I got it; very little ridge, lifter popped right out, bearings looked almost new.

My guess would have been 50 to 75k on it.

cardo0

Awesome, man i'd love to have a large journal 327" forged crank. Plenty of options and applications to have choose with. Maybe not a lot of cubes for low grunt but u can make it sing high rpm baby.
Another good thing the older blocks have is plenty of metal to over bore. I would expect 0.090" overbore is easy and not surprised if u can bore it and 1/8th".

I have to drop an name here for head work. They did a great job on my WP Torquers and pocket ported them for only 100 bucks. Great work, great prices and they love restoration Chevy heads. They don't use a w/s. Give Jim a call: Performance Chevy Products (602) 254-9586 Address: 2995 W
Whitton Ave, Phoenix, AZ 85017

Good luck Budman,
cardo0

shmoky

I just opened up my '68 L79 and was VERY surprised at how little wear and tear there was on the bearings and piston walls. Everything came out very easy. It too had just over 50K on it. Here's a pict of the cylinder walls.



The main bearings had only about a 20% polished surface on them and looked real good. Will replace the bearings, valve guides and rings but probably nothing else. May have to look into the bronze guides as well as mentioned above.

shmoky