Heating Issues 290hp Crate Motor
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Sydney NSW
Heating Issues 290hp Crate Motor
I going to have a crack at getting info on this issue again.
We are having some very hot days in Oz (100 degrees).
80 Vet and car runs stable on non stop cruises, at the lights it moves quickly from stable to hot - (180 - 210)
Had a 180 degree thermostat and it ran at 180 on the move. Replaced this with a 160 degree thermo and ran at 160 degree on the move.
Installed a clutch fan instead of the flexi but the issue remains, probably got worse after the clutch fan.
Looking to add as much timing as possible currently 12.
Will look at thermo fans next but any info welcome
We are having some very hot days in Oz (100 degrees).
80 Vet and car runs stable on non stop cruises, at the lights it moves quickly from stable to hot - (180 - 210)
Had a 180 degree thermostat and it ran at 180 on the move. Replaced this with a 160 degree thermo and ran at 160 degree on the move.
Installed a clutch fan instead of the flexi but the issue remains, probably got worse after the clutch fan.
Looking to add as much timing as possible currently 12.
Will look at thermo fans next but any info welcome
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 2
From: gold coast queensland
if your car can run at 160 with that thermostat and at 180 with a 180 thermostat on the hiway then you need to duplicate that same kind of airflow at a standstill. if you car can reach 160 at cruise speed then your radiator certainly has the capacity to run at a cool operating temperature. you problem is most certainly coming from an insufficient fan or bad seal on your radiator to shroud or inproper shroud all together . a clutch fan can pull just as much air as any thermofan if the shroud and fan are all in their proper working order . i myself have a thermofan but it was more so to make room in the engine bay rather then to fix a temperature problem. i think a good test is if you put your hand in front of your radiator / aircon condenser and can not feel a good amount of airflow then your fan is not pulling enough.
Last edited by gingerbreadman1977; Jan 30, 2009 at 07:05 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
My yellow '68 NEVER runs over 195 degrees and I'm in steamy Florida. Spent $300 to make my cooling system cool the car even in the worst heat:
1) Griffin universl radiator $159
2) PROCOMP Aluminum Water Pump $40 (35% more flow)
3) PERMACOOL single 16" fan ($90 - at the time I bought it)
I think that in your case, a auxiliary electric fan would do the job..
1) Griffin universl radiator $159
2) PROCOMP Aluminum Water Pump $40 (35% more flow)
3) PERMACOOL single 16" fan ($90 - at the time I bought it)
I think that in your case, a auxiliary electric fan would do the job..
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Jan 30, 2009 at 09:45 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
With Gingerbread, it seems your system has plenty of capacity and its an airflow issue at Idle. Check over the shroud to fan fit and make sure its right. Fitting an electric is a nice upgrade and cleans up some space. Grandsport has a hood point also, with an Aux fan and the proper temp sensor that would also work, but its more stuff under there instead of less.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 57
From: Mundelein Illinois
I agree with others, also check
Is guage accurate
Is sensor accurate
How is radiator, pump and shroud around fan.
I purchased an lazer temp gun, not expensive but gives accurate heat readings. You want to run at least 180 temp or 195 so motor is working for optimal performance. If cooling system is working properly even a 195 thermostat will not make the motor overheat.
Good Luck
Is guage accurate
Is sensor accurate
How is radiator, pump and shroud around fan.
I purchased an lazer temp gun, not expensive but gives accurate heat readings. You want to run at least 180 temp or 195 so motor is working for optimal performance. If cooling system is working properly even a 195 thermostat will not make the motor overheat.
Good Luck
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
I agree with others, also check
Is guage accurate
Is sensor accurate
How is radiator, pump and shroud around fan.
I purchased an lazer temp gun, not expensive but gives accurate heat readings. You want to run at least 180 temp or 195 so motor is working for optimal performance. If cooling system is working properly even a 195 thermostat will not make the motor overheat.
Good Luck
Is guage accurate
Is sensor accurate
How is radiator, pump and shroud around fan.
I purchased an lazer temp gun, not expensive but gives accurate heat readings. You want to run at least 180 temp or 195 so motor is working for optimal performance. If cooling system is working properly even a 195 thermostat will not make the motor overheat.
Good Luck
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 23,419
Likes: 22
From: In limbo
St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
First of all, Gingerbreadman1977: I like your avatar. If you get tired of those, feel free to send them to me. One, the other, or both, doesn't matter, just send them along.
Back to the car: I agree with the others, if the car runs stable at 160 with a 160 thermo, I would rule out the thermo, timing, radiator capacity and water pump output as the potential source at a first pass. If any of those were dramatically screwed up, you wouldn't be able to cruise down the road on a 100 degree day with a 160 degree coolant temp. It seems like it has to be a fan or shrouding issue. I am not sure I know what a flexi-fan is, but are you sure you used the proper size clutch fan?
Back to the car: I agree with the others, if the car runs stable at 160 with a 160 thermo, I would rule out the thermo, timing, radiator capacity and water pump output as the potential source at a first pass. If any of those were dramatically screwed up, you wouldn't be able to cruise down the road on a 100 degree day with a 160 degree coolant temp. It seems like it has to be a fan or shrouding issue. I am not sure I know what a flexi-fan is, but are you sure you used the proper size clutch fan?
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 57
From: Mundelein Illinois
I just thought of this. You said you have a crate motor. Make sure you don't have a reverse flow pump and that your fan is pullling air and not pusing it. Not sure what type of pulleys your running
What pump did you put on the motor. Mine came with a long style pump but I changed it to a short style to work with the factory pulleys
What pump did you put on the motor. Mine came with a long style pump but I changed it to a short style to work with the factory pulleys
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Sydney NSW
Thanks all,
Re shroud and fan, being a left to right conversion it appears as though motor is just off centre and not allowing re installation of appropriate fan.
Spacing around fan/shroud is therefore not right and I suspect cavitation or general air 'leakage' has rendred the fan inefffective.
I will check pump, pulleys and gauges as suggested but I think I am being cornered into electric fans as the situation is unique and as per the advice given to me previously.
Should have listened.
Re shroud and fan, being a left to right conversion it appears as though motor is just off centre and not allowing re installation of appropriate fan.
Spacing around fan/shroud is therefore not right and I suspect cavitation or general air 'leakage' has rendred the fan inefffective.
I will check pump, pulleys and gauges as suggested but I think I am being cornered into electric fans as the situation is unique and as per the advice given to me previously.
Should have listened.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 2
From: gold coast queensland
there is alot of choices in electric fans patto. i would recommend a 16inch 2350 cfm spal . they require no shroud and can just bolt straight to your radiator . there is also the 16inch extreme spal which is a 3000 cfm fan but not recommended on daily drivers as it is the most powerful fan they make and had to sacrifice some longevity to make it . in saying that i have not heard of one stopping yet. they arent cheap but i think they are the best.
in a left to right hand drive conversion your motor position should not change but thats not to say your shroud hasnt along the way somewhere and just isnt suited right to your fan. the clutch fan should only have about an inch gap to the shroud all the way around and the fan blades be situated half in and half out of the shroud with every little bit of airspace around your radiator and shroud totally foamed off.
here is a pic of my spal. i had oil spurt out of the bolt near my fuel pump and it went all over the radiator (you can kind of see it in that area near the lower neck) had to take radiator out to give it a clean with some truck wash.
in a left to right hand drive conversion your motor position should not change but thats not to say your shroud hasnt along the way somewhere and just isnt suited right to your fan. the clutch fan should only have about an inch gap to the shroud all the way around and the fan blades be situated half in and half out of the shroud with every little bit of airspace around your radiator and shroud totally foamed off.
here is a pic of my spal. i had oil spurt out of the bolt near my fuel pump and it went all over the radiator (you can kind of see it in that area near the lower neck) had to take radiator out to give it a clean with some truck wash.
Last edited by gingerbreadman1977; Jan 30, 2009 at 07:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Sydney NSW
Thanks for the advice.
Do we recommend a push or pull electric, I am thinking of keeping the mechanical fan and thought the electric unit might be better a little out front to give the mechanical a better clear shot at least but I don't want contradictory spin.
The shroud might very well be crushed out of shape although I am quite sure some of the conversions allowed a little more room on the new drivers side for the power steering set up.
Looks like the 16" should just fit in, I will go this way perhaps with a manual switch for very hot days.
Do we recommend a push or pull electric, I am thinking of keeping the mechanical fan and thought the electric unit might be better a little out front to give the mechanical a better clear shot at least but I don't want contradictory spin.
The shroud might very well be crushed out of shape although I am quite sure some of the conversions allowed a little more room on the new drivers side for the power steering set up.
Looks like the 16" should just fit in, I will go this way perhaps with a manual switch for very hot days.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 2
From: gold coast queensland
i have heard the pull fans are more efficient. i have a pull and it keeps the temp on 185 no problem on a summer day. i also have a manual switch as i dont trust automatic sensors to control the fan.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Sydney NSW
Gingerbreadman,
Funny how one thinks but living on the Gold Coast, I didn't think anyone spent any time on computers, surf, sun and good times and all that.
I just noticed I have a transmission cooler located right in front of the radiator which by calculation covers 25% of the radiator and the unit is quite dense and would not let air through easily, I am now thinking this is obstructive?
Funny how one thinks but living on the Gold Coast, I didn't think anyone spent any time on computers, surf, sun and good times and all that.
I just noticed I have a transmission cooler located right in front of the radiator which by calculation covers 25% of the radiator and the unit is quite dense and would not let air through easily, I am now thinking this is obstructive?
