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I'm contemplating removing the marker wiring of both the front and rear side markers. I want to install 1157 bulb sockets in the housings, and piggy back the wiring from the new sockets to the lights in the back. I want the front and rear side markers to dim light when the headlights are on, and bright flash when the signals or hazards are on.
Will it work? Can I just splice the front and rear wiring so the park light circuit powers the low light filament and the signal circuit powers the high light filament?
All will be LEDs and hopefully much brighter than stock.
Any reasons, electronically, that the circuits won't operate properly wired this way?
I'm contemplating removing the marker wiring of both the front and rear side markers. I want to install 1157 bulb sockets in the housings, and piggy back the wiring from the new sockets to the lights in the back. I want the front and rear side markers to dim light when the headlights are on, and bright flash when the signals or hazards are on.
Will it work? Can I just splice the front and rear wiring so the park light circuit powers the low light filament and the signal circuit powers the high light filament?
All will be LEDs and hopefully much brighter than stock.
Any reasons, electronically, that the circuits won't operate properly wired this way?
Thanks.
There should be no problem with this circuit, but a possibilty that a flasher unit being needed that is used when using a trailer. (heavy duty)
Depending on the LED's you might have to use some of those load equalizers so the LEDs will flash a lot of the time they use so little juice the flasher thinks the bulb has failed.
GOOD Luck wro87
I've done some crazy things with lights and LEDs and hope to do a post after I install the high beams (whish turn night to day), but they have been out since November. Anyways, I posted one solution a while back. My front side markers flash. You ground the side marker (white wire) to the dark blue wire going to the front 1157s. It does work and will flash together when the lights are off. They will flash opposite when the lights are on. I went 5 W Luxeon with all my 1156s and 1157s. I put something like 15 LEDs in each sidemarker and it works fine with a solid state module. My recommendation is to get a solid state blinker module and flasher module. I can walk you through everything I did; let me know if you want help and I'll point you in the direction I went. I will do an extensive write-up on everything head lighting and LED-related when the Cibie CSR high beams come in from Daniel Stern.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I would like to do the same thing with my '70. I already converted most of the lights to LED. BTW DB the flasher type is A in your post. After installing the front, rear and dash LED's the heavy duty flasher would not work so I switched to a no-load flasher from Keep-it-clean. It works but does a strange thing. When the signals are on the dash indicators light up bright-dim-bright-dim instead of bright-off-bright-off. I called their tech support (only time I ever called tech support for a flasher) and was told all of theirs work that way. I bought a couple in-line resistors which will compensate for the reduced load and allow me to use the heavy duty flashers again.
SuperbrightLEDs.com has the solid state blinker module and Eckler's has a the solid state 4-way module. You have to ground the latter. They work flawlessly. I got a bunch of my LEDs from SuperbrighLEDs.com ; it will be like Christmas for you! Enjoy!