Headlight Actuator
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Boynton Beach Florida
Headlight Actuator
I replaced the headlight actuators on my 80 tonight. Originally, they would not go up but, went down fine.
One of the doors is staying up about a half inch now. I believe it is that I did not turn the clevis in far enough but, not for certain. It is too dark here in the east to troubleshoot today.
Any ideas? Thanks for any help!
One of the doors is staying up about a half inch now. I believe it is that I did not turn the clevis in far enough but, not for certain. It is too dark here in the east to troubleshoot today.
Any ideas? Thanks for any help!
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I agree, you probably answered your own problem.
When ever you replace or work on the headlamp actuators it is always a good idea to measuer the clevis or count the turns before you remove it. If the door is to low or high it will allow you to make adjustments before installing or allow you to get it back to the same exact position.
Willcox
When ever you replace or work on the headlamp actuators it is always a good idea to measuer the clevis or count the turns before you remove it. If the door is to low or high it will allow you to make adjustments before installing or allow you to get it back to the same exact position.
Willcox
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Boynton Beach Florida
Thanks. Actually I marked the original actuator but, while trying to remove the original clevis, the shaft snapped. I would have thought that after a day of soaking in penetrating oil, it should have freed it. I probably should have used heat as well.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
From: Winchester CA
Same thing happened to the clevis on my '80. It's a common occurrence. Type broken clevis in the search box and you will find responses to an earlier inquiry I had regarding the same issue. One of the forum members actually gave the approximate measurement for the clevis adjustment in the replies to my thread. Check it out. Did you have to remove the hood to replace the actuators? Ask me how I know if you did. Good luck with that.
C3
C3
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Boynton Beach Florida
Actuators
I did not have to remove the hood.
The bolts holding the actuator were a pain. It took approximately 5 hours of reapplying penetrating oil until I could get the bolts off. Thirty years is a long time. The instructions I had said to remove the grill and funnel it out through the opening. I found that I could get it past the bumper support by turning it several times and so I removed them through the bottom. I applied anti-seize to the actuator mounting plate in case I ever have to remove it again.
I replaced most of the hoses at the same time along with the filter and check valve.
Overall it is not a major issue other than the removal. Wilcox has good instructions on their website.
The bolts holding the actuator were a pain. It took approximately 5 hours of reapplying penetrating oil until I could get the bolts off. Thirty years is a long time. The instructions I had said to remove the grill and funnel it out through the opening. I found that I could get it past the bumper support by turning it several times and so I removed them through the bottom. I applied anti-seize to the actuator mounting plate in case I ever have to remove it again.
I replaced most of the hoses at the same time along with the filter and check valve.
Overall it is not a major issue other than the removal. Wilcox has good instructions on their website.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 445
Likes: 2
From: Thomastown Mississippi
The proper operation of the headlights is a common problem on all these old cars. I opened and closed mine by hand for the first year that I owned my '77. It just looked like a PIA to try and figure out what was leaking and what needed replacing. Finally, after having to get under the front of the car at a restaurant one night to open the lights, I said I've got to fix these things. Instead of trying to track down one defective part, I just went ahead and replaced them all. New actuators, relays, filter, check valve, and hoses. It turned out to be a simple job, and I wish I had done it the day I bought the car. Lights have worked flawlessly since. I did remove my hood to replace the actuators and relays. After I kept bumping it with wrenches, I figured I better take it off.
KC
KC
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Boynton Beach Florida
Thanks BassCat! I had to utilize a die and to enable the clevis to go on far enough but, now they work. The left hand light goes up approx. a second later than the right and closes the same. I had a 69 back a number of years ago that did the same. Is this a common occurence? Is there any adjustment or should I expect to have to change a relay down the road?
Racer
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 445
Likes: 2
From: Thomastown Mississippi
Sounds like you've got it fixed. Mine also open a second or two apart, same as yours. I think that's normal. Getting the headlights to function properly has got to be one of the best repairs I ever did to this car, and I've done a lot. To anyone out there that is hesitating to tackle this job, just jump in and do it. You can replace the entire headlight vacuum system with all new parts for around $300-350, and it's probably a 2 hour job.
KC
KC
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,247
Likes: 471
From: Glen Allen, VA
I too think the second or 2 delay is nothing wrong. Mine do the same, but also go down an the same time. I agree with what you said about living with headlights that won't go up. I did that for the first 2 years I had mine. After replacing the seals on the acutators, they worked. I wish I had known it was that easy when I bought the car, that would have been one of the first things I fixed.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 445
Likes: 2
From: Thomastown Mississippi
My driver side light sits just a tad lower than the right, when closed. That's with the engine off. When I start the engine, it raises up even with the other side. We're only talking 1/8 inch here. I spent an hour adjusting the middle rod, and everything else, trying to get it perfect, finally gave up. It's such a small difference that nobody knows it but me.
KC
KC
