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I'm installing a Richmond 6 speed attached to an LS motor with polyurethane motor mounts. With my crossmember, it would be easiest to just use a solid spacer to mount the trans. The standard 1 3/4" mount will be too tall.
Any problems with mounting the trans solid to the crossmember?
With the poly motor mounts, there shouldn't be a lot of movement of the motor, so I wouldn't think breaking the transmission mounting tabs would be a problem.
I know several members that have mounted the engine and tranny solid and reported no vibration problems. This stiffens the front which helps the suspension.
Bernie
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by Garys 68
I'm installing a Richmond 6 speed attached to an LS motor with polyurethane motor mounts. With my crossmember, it would be easiest to just use a solid spacer to mount the trans. The standard 1 3/4" mount will be too tall.
Any problems with mounting the trans solid to the crossmember?
With the poly motor mounts, there shouldn't be a lot of movement of the motor, so I wouldn't think breaking the transmission mounting tabs would be a problem.
It isn't the motor movement you need to worry about. These frames have a crappy torsional strength level, and if you drive it hard, or hit an apex curb on the track, the frame will twist, and your engine/trans will act as an involuntary torsion bar down the middle of the frame. The tailshaft is not designed to function as a torsion bar. If you are a slow/easy driver, you might be fine. But, the solid trans mount concept scares me.
A solid transmission mount will cause additional stress and flexing through the bellhousing area - especially with an automatic. If you have ever seen an automatic case with a crack - it's not pretty. Use the stock trans mount instead (I don't even like polyurethane).
Further, I have very little faith with solid motor mounts either. A few years ago, I added a popular brand of solid motor mount to my 406 SBC engine in a C2. In approximately 6 months, one had crack about 45% through one of the vertical legs near the bend. I replaced the mounts using (newer fail-safe) rubber mounts - haven't had a problem since.
Makes sense. It looks like I might have to try to find a lower profile mount or modify an existing one.
Anyone know of a lower profile trans mount?
Originally Posted by 69427
It isn't the motor movement you need to worry about. These frames have a crappy torsional strength level, and if you drive it hard, or hit an apex curb on the track, the frame will twist, and your engine/trans will act as an involuntary torsion bar down the middle of the frame. The tailshaft is not designed to function as a torsion bar. If you are a slow/easy driver, you might be fine. But, the solid trans mount concept scares me.
There is some movement with the poly. Good rule of thumb, mount the tranny the same as you mount the engine. Just my 2 cents. John
Very good advice
As one moves the other needs to move the same way........ difficulty shifting at RPM and vibrations will be both the start and the least of the problems associated with a motor that moves and a transmission that does not
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by Garys 68
Makes sense. It looks like I might have to try to find a lower profile mount or modify an existing one.
Anyone know of a lower profile trans mount?
I just cut and reshaped my (bolt on) trans bracket when I put in my DN5spd a bunch of years ago. IIRC, the Richmond 6spd has a somewhat similar tailhousing shape, so a bit of bracket cutting and welding should get you where you need to go.
It isn't the motor movement you need to worry about. These frames have a crappy torsional strength level, and if you drive it hard, or hit an apex curb on the track, the frame will twist, and your engine/trans will act as an involuntary torsion bar down the middle of the frame. The tailshaft is not designed to function as a torsion bar. If you are a slow/easy driver, you might be fine. But, the solid trans mount concept scares me.
Interesting observation and from my angle it makes sense
DON"T DO IT! Even on race Vettes with solid front mounts I run a std rear mount to prevent cracking of the transmission tailhousing. I will just about GUARANTEE you that this will happen if you go to a solid mount.
OK, you guys talked me out of it!
I'm bolting a 2 x 2" square tubing tho the front of the crossmember with tabs that will bolt to the crossmember "ears".
I'll bolt the rubber mount off that.