I'm in the middle of replacing my front coil springs/shocks and I have the old shocks out and the spring compressed but I can't figure out where to disconnect the lower control arm to let the spring slide out. It looks like the inner portion of the control arm can be disconnected one of two ways:
1. Remove the bolts on the ends of the cross shaft and leave the cross shaft bolted to the frame while the rest swings down.
2. Remove the bolts that hold the cross shaft to the frame and lower the entire control arm.

I've attached a picture of the two ways. Which should I use?



please dont mind the utter mess under there....things are being cleaned/degreased while I'm under there.

 

disconnect the lower ball joint & lower the control arm carefully with a floor jack.

 

On my '78 I removed the 3 bolts that hold the cross shaft to the frame. I put a heavy strap through the coils and the control arm. (didn't use a spring compresser) Carefully lowered it with a floor jack.
Most new springs, unless you replace original, are shorter and don't require a compressor to install.

 

Bolt #1 will not do it. The cross shaft goes all the way to the outside of the rubber bushing behind that thick washer.

 

Try this one

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...%20rebuild.pdf

 

I was debating going this way too since it looks easier...any problems I should be aware of?

 

unbolt the cross shaft from the frame. i just took my coils out in about 5 mins this afternoon by going that route.

 

If your going through all this effort to install new coils and shocks, you should also install new bushings and ball joints. I see your bushing is a little cracked so the other ones might not be far behind.

 

 

I built a tool very much like whats in the chasis manual except mine fits into my floor jack then i use acouple of the tye down strapes (the rachet type)to hook to the control arm then hook the other side to the frame and lower the back side of the arm down and the spring falls out pretty safe too

 

I always do it this way (6x now) and so far never had issue. Ive always done it with aftermarket 7 turn coils (460lb-550lb), so it has a smaller uncompressed height than OEM 10 turn coils.

1 Remove brake caliper from mount and put to the side
2 Place large floor hydraulic jack under the lower control arm adn lift up until the spring starts to compress.
3 Loosen upper balljoint nut several turns and lower the jack away from the control arm.
4 Start hammering on the steering knuckle and let it pop the upper balljoint loose from coil spring pressure.
5 Place hydraulic jack back under control arm and jack up again to recompress spring.
6 Put a chain through the spring at this point
7 Remove nut from upper balljoint fully.
8 Lower jack and lower control arm will fall way and coil spring will fall away and be fully released. Leave lower balljoint fuly installed to steering knuckle.
9 Pull spring out from assembly and start cutting coils to lower front suspension

Assembly is reverse of above.

If this pic shows up. what type of coil do you have?

 

1 Remove brake caliper from mount and put to the side
2 Place large floor hydraulic jack under the lower control arm adn lift up until the spring starts to compress.
3 Loosen upper balljoint nut several turns and lower the jack away from the control arm.
4 Start hammering on the steering knuckle and let it pop the upper balljoint loose from coil spring pressure.
5 Place hydraulic jack back under control arm and jack up again to recompress spring.
6 Put a chain through the spring at this point
7 Remove nut from upper balljoint fully.
8 Lower jack and lower control arm will fall way and coil spring will fall away and be fully released. Leave lower balljoint fuly installed to steering knuckle.
9 Pull spring out from assembly and start cutting coils to lower front suspension

Assembly is reverse of above.

I 've never had to use a chain though.. I can't imagine the PITA it would be to undo the crossshaft.

 

just to add to what i didnt read - My s-10 was built the exact same way as the vette pretty much. i lowered it myself. and it was as easy as removing the ball join connection. removing the swaybar etc. all with simple hand tools and in my garage. but i thought i would have a tough time with the spring and i just had a jack under it. lowered it really slowly with me out of the way and all went good. pulled right out. the chain was ALWAYS required as a safety precaution im suprised some of you never heard of using that. Ive seen safety video of springs flying out from under the car and its not a pretty picture if you are in front of it! better safe then sorry. (but dont listen to me as i said i used a jack and was on the side not in front of the car) which kinda reminds me of the dentist and getting xrays there. they always set it up - hit the button and run out ofthe room on ya! NOW HOW SAFE IS THAT?

a big mistake i made was not to document the location of the lower spring perch. so when i put it back in the truck sat two inches higher!

 

Here what I did. I just made this web site so the wording is still really crapy.
http://corvetterestoration.webs.com/framedisasemble.htm

 

Awesome help from everyone! I'm definately going to try it by disconnecting the upper ball joint like so many here have done. I'll give it a try tonight when my daughter's in bed

 

it looks like there is set of 7 turn coils in there but I have no idea what their spring rate is. I thought they were stock since it still had the stock shocks absorbers on it but maybe someone swapped it out somewhere. This is the problem with not knowing any of the history of the car......

 

Forgot to add 2 things:

1) Remove the sway bar end links from lower control arm before you start also.

2) Before you start all this, try to view where the upper spring end is located in the upper frame perch. This is the end that you want to get back into the same location. GM book says 3/16 from pocket end. You may see the lack of paint or shiny scratch marks where the spring end was. Mine were more like 1/4 to 5/16ths but Im close.

Properly seat the upper coil end in the perch to get proper ride height.

If you fail to do this, you will end up with a 4X4 look.

B.

 

DAMN! So I did everything on the list you gave for disconnecting it by the upper ball joint but the damn steering knuckle wont come loose from the ball joint. I soaked the crap out of it with WD-40 and hit the flat spot a good 2 dozen times but it wont let go.

Does anyone think a crowbar might work without damaging the upper control arm? I was just thinking I might cram one in there between the knuckle and ball joint (needs replacing anyways) and jumping up and down on it a few times lol. Seriously? Anyone?

 

I understand your frustration. The last time I did this, I disconnected the lower ball joint. Big chain laced through the spring and frame for insurance. Used a pickle fork to separate ball joint from knuckle. You might refer to the link I posted above for Lars' method for the upper ball joint. Good luck!

 

Keep pounding. You might scare the neighbors by the time your done. Use a short handled 3lb engineers hammer.


Your 16oz roofing hammer wont cut it.