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Can you pop the head lights up and down by hand. I want to get rid of all the vacuum stuff on the front of the car and get the front as light as possible but I do need the lights to work.
Yes they will go down very easily. Look up from underneath and you will see kind of a knee joint. All you have to do is pull the "knee" forward a little and the headlight will go down very easily.
Yes they will go down very easily. Look up from underneath and you will see kind of a knee joint. All you have to do is pull the "knee" forward a little and the headlight will go down very easily.
Thanks, maybe I'll take one spring off each side to make it easier.
Yes they will go down very easily. Look up from underneath and you will see kind of a knee joint. All you have to do is pull the "knee" forward a little and the headlight will go down very easily.
I'm curious. How do you raise them manually? I know there's a override switch near the steering column. I used it once to lower my headlights but can you use it to open them. Can you post a pic of this "knee" you are talking about. I'm sure how to raise and lower your headlights manually is in the owner's manual. (don't have one) I bought a hose and tee kit from dr rebuild five years ago in case I ever need it.
I'm curious. How do you raise them manually? I know there's a override switch near the steering column. I used it once to lower my headlights but can you use it to open them. Can you post a pic of this "knee" you are talking about. I'm sure how to raise and lower your headlights manually is in the owner's manual. (don't have one) I bought a hose and tee kit from dr rebuild five years ago in case I ever need it.
You can just reach up and push the headlight open. Not really a hard thing to do. You might have to get down on your knees and bend over. I would not want to do it on a cold snowy night but I'm sure it has been done. In the picture the long rod there think of that as your knee cap. As the headlight goes up that will go towards the back of the car and then "lock" into place. To lower just pull the "knee" or the rod forward and the light will go back down.
You can just reach up and push the headlight open. Not really a hard thing to do. You might have to get down on your knees and bend over. I would not want to do it on a cold snowy night but I'm sure it has been done. In the picture the long rod there think of that as your knee cap. As the headlight goes up that will go towards the back of the car and then "lock" into place. To lower just pull the "knee" or the rod forward and the light will go back down.
what are the wires going into that KNEE joint? do you have the electric lights?
Its smart if your motor makes no vacuum and your going to be racing it.
Even a race cam will make vacuum, just not at idle... If you rev the engine to 2,000+ rpm, the vacuum will increase a lot. Hold the rpm and activate your lights.
If you find that it doesn't work, then it's time to repair or replace the vacuum relay control valve.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by 1nicecorvette
what are the wires going into that KNEE joint? do you have the electric lights?
LOL!! All lights are electric. Sorry couldn't resist. The wires I think you are talking about in this pic are for the headlight warning switch. This switch is a normally closed switch and turns a redlight on the center console on until the light raises fully up and locks into position. Then the switch is operated and turns the light off. It takes both lights to reach the fully up position to turn the headlight warning light off with the headlight switch on.
Yes, you can manually raise and lower them, easily. As described by other responders.
Our '68 was without properly functioning vac system for the past 5 years. Tried to troubleshoot, no luck, so disconnected and plugged vac lines.
Got to used to simply pulling them up when needed, it became 2nd nature. Also quickly learned exactly where to reach up, grab, kink, and drop, so lowering each one took 5 seconds.
Used to kid people that the car was ordered with the headlight actuator delete option (weight savings).
Having said all that... last winter my ace mechanic got the system working 100% again. And it's a joy to have it back!
Just a word of caution....and yes, I speak from experience.
When you disable the vacuum system on the headlights remember this....not only does the vacuum pull the headlights open and close them but it also KEEPS them closed. Mine is disconnected right now (I too had a low vacuum cam and a bunch of leaks in my vacuum system). Well, at about 100mph one or both of your lights will open. For me, over 100 and the left light pops up. At 120 the second starts to pop up. It's funny, cause I don't hardly have to look at my timeslip....if both lights are up at the end of the run then I know I went over 120mph.
The other things is that when doing your burnout w/the vacuum system disconnected your lights will 'wink' at the other car. At least that's what I tell them. They kind of shutter. Actually, I have video of the burnout in my signature below and in that picture they were fluttering.
Mine are "manual".
Start the engine, pull the light switch and step out.
I use my house key to lift them slightly to pull them up by hand.
One goes down fine, the other one; get on your knees and pull the bolt.
It comes down right away.
Doesn't bother me.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
You can open and close them with the hood open that is the easiest. Not sure about what you can remove and still have them stay open or closed when you want them that way.