i have a motor with about 2000 miles it's a engine factory 383 full rollar motor around 450 hp can any one give me the pro's @con's of synthetic @ reg motor oil i have reg 10/30 right know thanks for any help pete

 

Just do some research, you'll have 40 people on here to give you 42 different suggestions. That's not a bad thing about anyone on here, just we're all different, and have different opinions. I just bought a 2500HD diesel truck, and have to do the same for the oil I plan to use in it.

Good luck, BBTank

 

Synthetic 10-30 will be fine with a full roller motor if your oil pressure at idle and redline is good now.

 

or 5W30 synthetic.

 

with a preference to Mobil-1

 

Red Line or Royal Purple 5W30...

 

You might want to take a look at this one:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...th-a-look.html

 

I have a similar enginefactory 383.
Nothing wrong with mineral based oil in a full roller motor.
10w30 mineral based is what enginefactory recommend.

After 2000 miles, your rings should be seated, so I guess you could use synthetic if you really wanted to spend the extra money.


Main consideration (advantage) is how often you change the oil... mineral oils do breakdown more rapidly than synthetic oil... especially at high temperatures in a performance motor driven hard, so a synthetic oil will last longer to help justify the additional cost.

But I personally don't like the idea of running the same oil in the engine for 12 months or 12000 miles, so I use the old jurassic dinosaur based oil and replace it every 3 months. Works for me.

 

Being a former active AMSOIL dealer Synthetic oil is the way to go. If you compare the results of the 4-ball wear test next to AMSOIL, Mobil 1 Full Synthetic is very close in the test results and also is able to be purchased almost anywhere and in my opinion is also less $$$$$.....

 

That's odd that you say that, because Amsoil's 4-Ball wear test link below, shows Mobil 1 tied with a group that is next to worst in that 4-ball wear test. Maybe you've been away from all that for awhile. Plus Mobil 1 shows very poorly in all these other tests as well.

http://synthetic-motor-oil-air-filte...omparisons.htm
then click on the 4-ball wear test

http://www.valvoline.com/synpower-we...er%2Bpromotion

http://www.castroledgeusa.com/?utm_s...n=Castrol_EDGE

http://www.castroledgeusa.com/?utm_s...GE#/browse/faq
click on "get answers", and then on number 7

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
scroll through to find Mobil 1

It makes me wonder why anyone would still buy Mobil 1, when so many other synthetics are SO much better.

 

vette68,

What did I tell you?? See what I mean?

 

deisel oil is supposed to have the highest zinc content - (isn't it?) If you're not running a cat, its the way to go.

 

The only difference you will notice with synthetic is that your wallet is lighter. Your car will turn no faster times at the track, your gas mileage will stay the same, and there definately will be no increased "seat of the pants" feel when you mash it on the street.
Your engine will last just as long on the non-synthetic. So it's really up to you. I've said it before and I'll say it again. Using synthetic in a street motor is like peeing your pants - it gives you a warm feeling, but that's about it.

 

In general, you might not be too far off, as long as things are going along nice and normal. But when things go bump in the night, such as problems that could turn up related to cooling and/or oiling, then a good synthetic (and they are not all created equal) can definitely save your bacon. We've seen this plenty of times, though more commonly with race motors. So, you could sort of consider synthetic oil like insurance. Most folks have insurance and never need it. But if they do, they're very glad they have it. Its much the same idea with synthetics. So you just have to ask yourself, do you feel lucky? You can pay a little more now, or just maybe pay a whole lot more later. Everyone has to decide for themselves.

 

Thanks reggie. I gotta go change my pants now.

 

Synthetics show considerably less engine wear in extensive testing. I like Amsoil. Others will recommend something else. A stock 200 HP motor is cheap to replace. My $8000 motor is broke in with Dyno oil, will change to Amsoil @ 2000 miles. Cost $40 to change to Amsoil Vs $20 for dyno. In 100,000 miles that is a cost difference of $660 if you change every 3000 miles. If you extend your change intervals to 6000 miles with the Amsoil the cost is the same as dyno oil. Breakdown tests show very little breakdown in Amsoil even after 25,000 miles but I am a every 3000 mile guy anyway.

 

The oil topic always cracks me up since as stated above there so many differing opinions on the subject. Synthetic oil is NOT about performance increases and gas mileage. Using a synthetic is about minimizing wear especially at cold start up and high temperature protection. Engines show considerably less wear as stated above and well documented in the literature with synthetics primarily because ALL the molecules are the SAME size, which is not true for dino oil where the oil molecules are of varying size. Choose your own brand but Mobil 1 15W-50 for flat tappet cammed engines is $25 for 5 quarts at Wlamart and has 1,200 PPM of ZDDP. Running diesel oils such as Shell Rotella no longer offers any additional ZDDP than gas oils since the EPA mandated that ALL mass marketed oils cannot have more than 1,200 PPM of ZDDP any longer. THERE IS NO ADVANTAGE ANY LONGER FROM THE ZDDP ARGUMENT TO USE DIESEL OIL! As stated previously, the assumption of those that state that synthetics offer zero advantages over dino oil must be that consumers and industry are all morons. Just put a synthetic label on the bottle, charge more, and offer no advantages over dino oil and the dopey public will buy it. Couldn't help that rant. Sorry!

 

The consumers of the world vote on this subject every time they purchase oil and they purchase far more conventional oils. IF synthetic is so great why is it out sold by conventional oils? The real question should be "What do I need from my motor oil?" I have run tests on every major brand and type of motor oil and additive there is - and was - over the last 20+ yrs or so - mostly engine oils and gear oils used in over the road trucks. Engine life for these vehicles is measured in hundreds of thousands of miles. As recently as 2001 I began a test using Royal Purple in 10 new trucks and Chevron Delo 400 in 10 others. All 20 were run to 800,000 miles and disassembled. All surfaces were measured for wear and there was no difference between the two groups. There was no difference in fuel mileage between the two groups. There was a difference in mainteance costs - the 10 synthetic trucks had higher costs because of the oil. Yes, these are not street cars or race engines, but what gets more abuse than an engine that runs in every kind of weather and is operated by people who generally don't care about it? I agree that an engine used primarily for racing could bennefit from a synthetic, but not a car that is mostly street driven and raced a few times a year. Base your choice on the information you gain. I do.

 

All that independent laboratory testing must be falsified. The synthetic oil companies are guilty of false advertising and Exxon can't afford to prosecute them. Yea, right.
http://synthetic-motor-oil-air-filte...omparisons.htm

 

Got a debate going? Just go to the internet! You can find anything you want to support any argument. No such thing as the Holocaust, Neil Armstrong never walked on the moon, Bush cheated in the election vs. Gore. Pete Rose didn't bet on baseball, Dolly Parton doesn't sleep on her back, smoking dope won't hurt you, Pope is not Catholic, Barry Bonds just kept growing naturally after he turned 30, etc.etc. etc.